Battery Camping Question
#11
Senior Member
So expect it next weekend lol
Yup, I have an ecoboost.
Last edited by sigma pi; 10-27-2016 at 05:34 PM.
#12
just get a goal zero Yeti 150 and solar panel. I use it to charge phones at night, run a tent light, water pump for dishes/shower. thing lasts forever, I rarely use the solar charger as you can charge it via 12v and 110v. light weight and really small, I store it in the center console of my F1.
#13
Senior Member
The Goal Zero is a nice unit. But remember, it is rated at 150Wh, not watts. That means you have 150 watts for 1 hour. 50 watts for 3 hours, etc... It is a nice idea as long as you don't expect to run too many appliances, or need it for long until you can charge it again. A good addition to a solar panel set up perhaps.
#14
Senior Member
Ugh, doing research and there is a TON of stuff to learn. Apparently an AGM battery needs higher voltage to get fully charged. The charge controllers for those are more $$
#16
Senior Member
Zamp Charge controller is what I have decided on. I was thinking a group 31 agm.
#17
Senior Member
#18
Senior Member
I am surprised no one has mentioned this yet or maybe I missed it.
Just buy a battery isolator. it is a high amperage relay. you can wire it through the trucks ignition and a secondary switch as well. the switch will disconnect the batteries when you want. and if you also signal it through the ignition they will automatically be disconnected anytime the key is off.
the switch would only really come into play if you completely drain your accessory battery bank. then you could disconnect the bank so it doesnt kill your starting battery before you can start the truck.
I believe they make computerized controllers to do this. but they are pricey i am sure. the way I have described should cost right around 100 dollars and once everything is in the most work you would have to do is flip a switch.
if you are interested let me know and I will send some links to equipment and can go more in detail of wiring it up.
I am new to the "overlanding" thing. but I used to do car audio and the same basic principles are used for battery banks on high powered systems.
Just buy a battery isolator. it is a high amperage relay. you can wire it through the trucks ignition and a secondary switch as well. the switch will disconnect the batteries when you want. and if you also signal it through the ignition they will automatically be disconnected anytime the key is off.
the switch would only really come into play if you completely drain your accessory battery bank. then you could disconnect the bank so it doesnt kill your starting battery before you can start the truck.
I believe they make computerized controllers to do this. but they are pricey i am sure. the way I have described should cost right around 100 dollars and once everything is in the most work you would have to do is flip a switch.
if you are interested let me know and I will send some links to equipment and can go more in detail of wiring it up.
I am new to the "overlanding" thing. but I used to do car audio and the same basic principles are used for battery banks on high powered systems.
#19
Senior Member