Found this a while back, not sure how accurate it is--http://tire-size-conversion.com/metric-tire-conversion/

 

OleMiss, now thats the members I was used to seeing hahaha


Thank you so much my man!

 

I had to do some slight trimming then was good to go!!! 325 is like 13.3"wide too, or something like that

 

I am really leaning towards the 4inch lift now lol

 

Nice truck,by the way. So are you saying that you clear 6'8" with the four inch lift??

 

I greatly prefer the lift to the level. Ride is much improved, although the LT tires do their best to stiffen it up. I'm off road a fair amount and the amazing flex from the lift easily justifies the price. Went with a 4" lift because it retains factory angles keeping the wear and tear off the front that a level will do.

Only downside is that I had to add steps for the girlfriend (I hate the look of running boards) but AMPs work great for us as you can't see them.

ETA-- Steelhead, I cleared the 70" bar with a couple of inches to spare but after measuring my truck I have to assume garage warning bars are measured by idiots or not measured at all. I've hit plenty of other garage bars although I can't recall what height they said. I know the bar at the beach garage says 72" and I'm not even close to clearing it. I always assume that I won't fit into a parking garage.-- gets me out of driving alot of times.

 

Guys, quick what are you thoughts on what this guy just told me at the shop?


After consulting with my installer, he said the 2.5” kit was designed for the all new 2015 F-150. He doesn’t believe it’s a good fit for anything less than 2015 even though it says it will fit. In the years leading up to 2015, anything over 2” would cause premature wear on the CV joints. He definitely would use the 2” kit with the 1” rear block. As for the 3” rear block, the truck comes stock with a 2” block underneath. The Traxda 1” rear block installs on top of the 2” block giving you a total of 3 inches.


****UPDATE****
I talked to this guy again and he said we could do that level kit but it may wear down the cv pipe quicker. He recommended the 2 inch instead. Also when you guys say 3inch rear block do you mean 1 inch added to the stock 2 like he said?

I want to prolly set this up to be done next week but just want to get the right stuff.

Looks like I would be doing either traxdaor autospring 2.5 and then a 1 inch rear block totaling to 3 with the stock. Along with a alignment and a tuner for performance and speedometer adjustment.

 

The rear block is not 2" it is 1.25" and a 2" front puck will put you perfectly level in most cases. When I had a level I stacked a 1" block on my 1.25" block in the rear to keep some rake. A 3" rear block will make you sit 1 3/4" higher.

He is right that anything over 2" can lead to premature wear but a lot of us have not seen CV failures most see upper control arm ball joints if anything.

And make sure he doesn't pull your cv shafts from the hubs to do the install. Most "professional" shops seem to be wrecking a hell of a lot of hub locker actuators because they don't re install the cvs and hubs correctly.

 

Thank you, I am just going to go with the 4inch to hopefully keep ride and truck in good shape.

NOW I have to find some tires lol

 

Good, I love my 4" BDS lift. I want to roll 34x 12.5 when I can afford some tread.