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Thanks Southpaw 1227 for posting this. It was helpful, and I appreciate it. Here's an addition to this post, and a few other options for anyone who is contemplating an amp/sub addition.
I purchased the factory Ford/Kicker subwoofer system for my 2016 SuperCrew (with the 8" touch screen stereo), and just wasn't happy with it. While it did hit pretty well for an 8' woofer with only 100 watts RMS, it just didn't give me the ability to adjust the crossover/low pass filter levels, the gain, or the bass level... and ultimately I found myself wanting a little more thump and a little more control.
I sold the Kicker system, and purchased a Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10" shallow-mount subwoofer enclosure, and a Pioneer GM-D8601 amp (300 watts RMS at 4 ohms). I did a bunch of research, and it sounded like this was what I was looking for. The enclosure fits under the rear seat snugly (but will fit behind the rear seat as well, if you feel like trimming the carpet a little), and every review claimed that it hit nice and hard. It turns out that the reviews were right, as I feel that it is the perfect addition to a factory system. The amp was also researched, and also had everything I wanted. It has the signal-sensing turn-on (no need to run a remote to the fuse panel), auto signal sensing for both high and low level input, and has a bass level remote that runs back to the dash.
Here's a few pointers from the installation... I followed Southpaw 1227's advice regarding the rear speaker leads, and tapped the positive and negative leads on the backside of the B pillar. I used spade connectors instead, and secured them with zip ties (see photo number one). I used a coat hanger to push the wires back to the opening in the center of the carpet behind the rear seat, where I attached them to the supplied RCA leads that plug into the amp (this amp doesn't have the high level speaker wire inputs). Next I ran the 4-Gauge power lead from the battery, but realized that I was never going to get that big wire through the hood release cable grommet, so I used an exacto knife and went through the larger grommet right next to the hood release cable (see photo number two), and secured the 4-Gauge ground wire to the bolt on the rear seat latch on the rear wall of the cabin. Next I ran the remote back up to the dash, drilled a hole in the backside of the little storage nook just below the four-wheel-drive selector (see photo number 3). Be careful here! I went through the lower left corner of that nook where the tiny square is already punched through, but it appears that there is a wiring harness in the middle on the backside of that nook (possibly for that trailer backup assist ****). Be careful and don't drill through that harness. As far as securing the amp and subwoofer... I used 36" heavy-duty zip ties (don't laugh... they worked great). The amp is secured to the rear wall carpet/insulation with these zip ties (see photo number 4) by using an exacto knife to pierce through the carpet, and the subwoofer enclosure is zip tied to the rear seat frame (see photo number 5).
As far as I am concerned, this system is perfect. It adds a lot of thump, but I didn't have to give up all the features of the factory system. I have some adjustability to the sound (I listen to everything from rap to funk to disco to classic rock to electronic to country to heavy metal to alternative), and it didn't break that bank (a little over $200 on Amazon). I still have some fine tuning to do, but I'm finally smiling.
Great posts, I know I'm just now reading it but I have decided on the exact same system/components TTKammer used. How do you like it now after a couple of months use?? I will be mounting my Sub behind the drivers side rear seat as I don't want to give up the flat floor space, would rather cut the rear wall carpet. Did anyone consider using the factory sub wire harness with a WPT1212 connector?
Thanks to southpaw for this write up and all the added input If I just want to install an amp and no subwoofer at this time does this his method only amplify the rear speakers? Can you access the front door speakers wire in the b pillar as well?
Has anyone successfully run there amp power lead out of the passenger side of the truck?
Right now I have my plow and amp power boards wiring running through the drivers side grommet in the picture above. I also have wiring running out the grommet on the floor (drivers side) to feed the amp power boards as well as my Rigid LED back up lights. If possible, I'd love to exit the passenger side.
07-13-2017, 09:49 AM
