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Wiring a sub / subwoofer and amplifier in 2015 F-150 (no door removal, how-to guide)

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Old 03-18-2017, 01:14 PM   #241
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Originally Posted by Mando2real View Post
Adding my setup here as well since this was another thread i was following as I researched my options and troubleshooting my issues. I hope it helps someone.


Parts list :
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMR7UPS..._SclOybASP0N6E

Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 Prime R2S Single 10-Inch Shallow Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068XYNH4..._IEimCZgK7Qtg1

Kicker CK4 Complete 4 Gauge OFC CK-Series 2-Channel Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA1HDQ..._1dlOybDEJFDVN

Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC..._hclOybXMQBJ9E

Alpine RUX-**** Remote Bass Level Control **** for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KEGS90..._wQJCUslDK9gnB

Auto Zone
ATR add a circuit 2-10a

Did not use /returned :

ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ..._x-kOybAEH389X

Motorcraft WPT1212 Multi-Function Switch Connector Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B5SPHU..._AblOyb4D00ZRQ


Connection setup:
-Wires power from battery through passenger side gromet. Pita to feed through gromet.
-ground to existing bolt next to rear seat bracket. Sanded paint off for better connection.
-Remote wire tapped into fuse #23 via ATR add a circuit in passenger kick panel
-tapped into BOTH rear speaker wires in BOTH b pillars. They are the pairs that are intertwined.
Driver /left
White w green stripe (+)
Brown W yellow stripe (-)
Passenger /right
Brown W white stripe (+)
Brown w blue stripe (-)
-ran the tapped wires into each of the Kicker line out converter wires. Also grounded the brown wire to same spot where I grounded the amp ground
-connected everything
-cut wall carpet so sub can fit better behind seat
-I have sub slightly tilted for now. Will need to cut center bolt and perhaps add 2x4 or something. Currently resting next to bolt closest to outside of truck, while other sids rest on top of bolt closer to center of truck. This gives enough clearance since part of sub is sitting lower and top of box is narrower.
I hope that makes sense and helps out others. I had read several posts /threads where people were experiencing same problems. I could not get the wpt 1212 to sub factory harness method working for the life of me. I was even thinking of tapping directly into factory sub harness wires (skipping wpt 1212 harness) instead of b pillars but just didn't feel like going though that trouble since I could not determine what was not working initially (1212 harness, factory sub, forscan settings). In hindsight, I would have gone this route from beginning (tapping to bpillar speaker wires).
I have the same amp and JL Mini 6.5 Sub that I had in my Sierra for 2 years and might install in my new Raptor today. I used this amp with High Level inputs with auto on / off perfectly. Why did you install a line level to RCA converter when that function is built into the amp?
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:17 PM   #242
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Because no one controls if the producer of the track put the bass in the left channel, the right channel, split them, or otherwise. Especially in live and live/studio recordings, you would risk getting the weak bass channel if you only tap one.
The Kicker add on Sub only taps the left rear speaker. I had this same question as I always tap into both L/R channels when installing a sub and now wonder if I only needed one channel. Seems odd the $600 Kicker add on sub would only tap into one if 2 where needed?????
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Old 03-19-2017, 07:27 PM   #243
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The Kicker add on Sub only taps the left rear speaker. I had this same question as I always tap into both L/R channels when installing a sub and now wonder if I only needed one channel. Seems odd the $600 Kicker add on sub would only tap into one if 2 where needed?????
I have always tapped just one.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:50 PM   #244
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Would anyone mind sharing pictures of how they ran the power wire to the battery?

I'd LOVE to go through on the passenger side, but did not see an easy way of getting through. There's plenty of room on the driver side, but I'd rather not route an 8-gauge power wire all around the engine compartment.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:36 PM   #245
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Would anyone mind sharing pictures of how they ran the power wire to the battery?

I'd LOVE to go through on the passenger side, but did not see an easy way of getting through. There's plenty of room on the driver side, but I'd rather not route an 8-gauge power wire all around the engine compartment.
I ran 4 gauge through the big grommet on the passenger side. It's high up on the firewall right behind the battery and fuse box.

go here for some pics.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2016-f...1/#post5090519


I cut a little X in the grommet (there is an inside layer and outside layer) and then with some "personal lubricant" I fed the wire through the rubber and then inside the passenger side door sill to the rear where it comes out behind the carpet behind jack and over to my AMP.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:48 PM   #246
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I ran 4 gauge through the big grommet on the passenger side. It's high up on the firewall right behind the battery and fuse box.

go here for some pics.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2016-f...1/#post5090519


I cut a little X in the grommet (there is an inside layer and outside layer) and then with some "personal lubricant" I fed the wire through the rubber and then inside the passenger side door sill to the rear where it comes out behind the carpet behind jack and over to my AMP.
+1
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:10 AM   #247
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Thank you...I will give that a go. I was concerned that I couldn't get to the wire under the dash if I used that grommet with all the other junk in the way (HVAC and glove box).
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:04 AM   #248
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Thank you...I will give that a go. I was concerned that I couldn't get to the wire under the dash if I used that grommet with all the other junk in the way (HVAC and glove box).
If you pull the fuse panel cover off the wire comes out of the firewall grommet and is accessible. It's pretty high up the behind the dash, so just keep feeding it until it comes down within reach. It is kinda tight to be pulling. I pushed from the hood side the entire length of wire.

Just rearward of the firewall grommet is some kind of equipment, I didn't bother finding out what. But it leaves about 4" ish of space between the grommet and the "mystery piece" that 4" is where your wire will come out. Plenty for a 4AWG to turn, so 8AWG shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 03-25-2017, 01:56 PM   #249
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Using this guide I installed a Rockford Fosgate PS-8. Thanks to the OP it was incredibly easy tapping in the pillars for the high level speaker inputs. The overall installation went without a hitch and i was happy with the added bass. I didn't run a remote wire and set the amp to turn on from audio signal, everything worked fine. Here's the problem, I live in apt's and the other day my friend stopped me and told me my truck was humming/buzzing when she walked her dog. I walked up to it and sure enough the sub was on and sounded like it was playing music quietly! The truck was completely off and had been sitting for like two days as I have a company truck. I got in started the truck turned on the radio let the sub play for a second and then turned everything off. The sub turned off in like 20 seconds after audio signal turned off. Went to my truck an hour later and the sub was back on and it was bumping softly to a beat of some sort. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on?? Thanks for any help, this forum has always been amazing at helping troubleshoot issues.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:33 PM   #250
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Originally Posted by sbohl15a View Post
Using this guide I installed a Rockford Fosgate PS-8. Thanks to the OP it was incredibly easy tapping in the pillars for the high level speaker inputs. The overall installation went without a hitch and i was happy with the added bass. I didn't run a remote wire and set the amp to turn on from audio signal, everything worked fine. Here's the problem, I live in apt's and the other day my friend stopped me and told me my truck was humming/buzzing when she walked her dog. I walked up to it and sure enough the sub was on and sounded like it was playing music quietly! The truck was completely off and had been sitting for like two days as I have a company truck. I got in started the truck turned on the radio let the sub play for a second and then turned everything off. The sub turned off in like 20 seconds after audio signal turned off. Went to my truck an hour later and the sub was back on and it was bumping softly to a beat of some sort. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on?? Thanks for any help, this forum has always been amazing at helping troubleshoot issues.
Interesting. Do you a factory HU? I think you need to run a dedicated switched power lead from your fusebox
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