Wiring a sub / subwoofer and amplifier in 2015 F-150 (no door removal, how-to guide)
#231
Great post
So this is very helpful! You did a great job. I do have a question that I am not sure anyone can answer I have a supercrew lariat with the Sony system and built in sub. I want to put 2 x 12" under the rear seat I have a box and amp that fits but my question is if I can connect the amp and subs to the existing Sony system. Again I have the Sony sub behind the seat and I would like to unplug that and run the wires from that into my new setup without having to run wires all the way back to the battery. Can this be done? Has anyone done this yet? Or if I can use those wires for audio and then only have to run a fused wire to the battery would be fine with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#232
Official HTT Greeter
So this is very helpful! You did a great job. I do have a question that I am not sure anyone can answer I have a supercrew lariat with the Sony system and built in sub. I want to put 2 x 12" under the rear seat I have a box and amp that fits but my question is if I can connect the amp and subs to the existing Sony system. Again I have the Sony sub behind the seat and I would like to unplug that and run the wires from that into my new setup without having to run wires all the way back to the battery. Can this be done? Has anyone done this yet? Or if I can use those wires for audio and then only have to run a fused wire to the battery would be fine with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I went under the passenger door sill. and through the big grommet at the top of the passenger firewall. cut a small X in the grommet and fed the big wire through. VERY important, LUBE THE WIRE makes feeding it through much much easier.
#233
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
So this is very helpful! You did a great job. I do have a question that I am not sure anyone can answer I have a supercrew lariat with the Sony system and built in sub. I want to put 2 x 12" under the rear seat I have a box and amp that fits but my question is if I can connect the amp and subs to the existing Sony system. Again I have the Sony sub behind the seat and I would like to unplug that and run the wires from that into my new setup without having to run wires all the way back to the battery. Can this be done? Has anyone done this yet? Or if I can use those wires for audio and then only have to run a fused wire to the battery would be fine with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#234
Adding my setup here as well since this was another thread i was following as I researched my options and troubleshooting my issues. I hope it helps someone.
Parts list :
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 Prime R2S Single 10-Inch Shallow Loaded Enclosure
Kicker CK4 Complete 4 Gauge OFC CK-Series 2-Channel Amplifier Installation Kit
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter
Alpine RUX-**** Remote Bass Level Control **** for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6
Auto Zone
ATR add a circuit 2-10a
Did not use /returned :
ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows
Motorcraft WPT1212 Multi-Function Switch Connector Assembly
Connection setup:
-Wires power from battery through passenger side gromet. Pita to feed through gromet.
-ground to existing bolt next to rear seat bracket. Sanded paint off for better connection.
-Remote wire tapped into fuse #23 via ATR add a circuit in passenger kick panel
-tapped into BOTH rear speaker wires in BOTH b pillars. They are the pairs that are intertwined.
Driver /left
White w green stripe (+)
Brown W yellow stripe (-)
Passenger /right
Brown W white stripe (+)
Brown w blue stripe (-)
-ran the tapped wires into each of the Kicker line out converter wires. Also grounded the brown wire to same spot where I grounded the amp ground
-connected everything
-cut wall carpet so sub can fit better behind seat
-I have sub slightly tilted for now. Will need to cut center bolt and perhaps add 2x4 or something. Currently resting next to bolt closest to outside of truck, while other sids rest on top of bolt closer to center of truck. This gives enough clearance since part of sub is sitting lower and top of box is narrower.
I hope that makes sense and helps out others. I had read several posts /threads where people were experiencing same problems. I could not get the wpt 1212 to sub factory harness method working for the life of me. I was even thinking of tapping directly into factory sub harness wires (skipping wpt 1212 harness) instead of b pillars but just didn't feel like going though that trouble since I could not determine what was not working initially (1212 harness, factory sub, forscan settings). In hindsight, I would have gone this route from beginning (tapping to bpillar speaker wires).
Parts list :
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 Prime R2S Single 10-Inch Shallow Loaded Enclosure
Kicker CK4 Complete 4 Gauge OFC CK-Series 2-Channel Amplifier Installation Kit
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter
Alpine RUX-**** Remote Bass Level Control **** for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6
Auto Zone
ATR add a circuit 2-10a
Did not use /returned :
ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows
Motorcraft WPT1212 Multi-Function Switch Connector Assembly
Connection setup:
-Wires power from battery through passenger side gromet. Pita to feed through gromet.
-ground to existing bolt next to rear seat bracket. Sanded paint off for better connection.
-Remote wire tapped into fuse #23 via ATR add a circuit in passenger kick panel
-tapped into BOTH rear speaker wires in BOTH b pillars. They are the pairs that are intertwined.
Driver /left
White w green stripe (+)
Brown W yellow stripe (-)
Passenger /right
Brown W white stripe (+)
Brown w blue stripe (-)
-ran the tapped wires into each of the Kicker line out converter wires. Also grounded the brown wire to same spot where I grounded the amp ground
-connected everything
-cut wall carpet so sub can fit better behind seat
-I have sub slightly tilted for now. Will need to cut center bolt and perhaps add 2x4 or something. Currently resting next to bolt closest to outside of truck, while other sids rest on top of bolt closer to center of truck. This gives enough clearance since part of sub is sitting lower and top of box is narrower.
I hope that makes sense and helps out others. I had read several posts /threads where people were experiencing same problems. I could not get the wpt 1212 to sub factory harness method working for the life of me. I was even thinking of tapping directly into factory sub harness wires (skipping wpt 1212 harness) instead of b pillars but just didn't feel like going though that trouble since I could not determine what was not working initially (1212 harness, factory sub, forscan settings). In hindsight, I would have gone this route from beginning (tapping to bpillar speaker wires).
Last edited by Mando2real; 02-12-2017 at 04:25 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mando2real:
sbohl15a (02-16-2017),
Toy Hauler (09-24-2017)
#235
Adding my setup here as well since this was another thread i was following as I researched my options and troubleshooting my issues. I hope it helps someone.
Parts list :
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMR7UPS..._SclOybASP0N6E
Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 Prime R2S Single 10-Inch Shallow Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068XYNH4..._IEimCZgK7Qtg1
Kicker CK4 Complete 4 Gauge OFC CK-Series 2-Channel Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA1HDQ..._1dlOybDEJFDVN
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC..._hclOybXMQBJ9E
Alpine RUX-**** Remote Bass Level Control **** for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KEGS90..._wQJCUslDK9gnB
Auto Zone
ATR add a circuit 2-10a
Did not use /returned :
ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ..._x-kOybAEH389X
Motorcraft WPT1212 Multi-Function Switch Connector Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B5SPHU..._AblOyb4D00ZRQ
Connection setup:
-Wires power from battery through passenger side gromet. Pita to feed through gromet.
-ground to existing bolt next to rear seat bracket. Sanded paint off for better connection.
-Remote wire tapped into fuse #23 via ATR add a circuit in passenger kick panel
-tapped into BOTH rear speaker wires in BOTH b pillars. They are the pairs that are intertwined.
Driver /left
White w green stripe (+)
Brown W yellow stripe (-)
Passenger /right
Brown W white stripe (+)
Brown w blue stripe (-)
-ran the tapped wires into each of the Kicker line out converter wires. Also grounded the brown wire to same spot where I grounded the amp ground
-connected everything
-cut wall carpet so sub can fit better behind seat
-I have sub slightly tilted for now. Will need to cut center bolt and perhaps add 2x4 or something. Currently resting next to bolt closest to outside of truck, while other sids rest on top of bolt closer to center of truck. This gives enough clearance since part of sub is sitting lower and top of box is narrower.
I hope that makes sense and helps out others. I had read several posts /threads where people were experiencing same problems. I could not get the wpt 1212 to sub factory harness method working for the life of me. I was even thinking of tapping directly into factory sub harness wires (skipping wpt 1212 harness) instead of b pillars but just didn't feel like going though that trouble since I could not determine what was not working initially (1212 harness, factory sub, forscan settings). In hindsight, I would have gone this route from beginning (tapping to bpillar speaker wires).
Parts list :
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMR7UPS..._SclOybASP0N6E
Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 Prime R2S Single 10-Inch Shallow Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068XYNH4..._IEimCZgK7Qtg1
Kicker CK4 Complete 4 Gauge OFC CK-Series 2-Channel Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA1HDQ..._1dlOybDEJFDVN
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC..._hclOybXMQBJ9E
Alpine RUX-**** Remote Bass Level Control **** for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KEGS90..._wQJCUslDK9gnB
Auto Zone
ATR add a circuit 2-10a
Did not use /returned :
ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ..._x-kOybAEH389X
Motorcraft WPT1212 Multi-Function Switch Connector Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B5SPHU..._AblOyb4D00ZRQ
Connection setup:
-Wires power from battery through passenger side gromet. Pita to feed through gromet.
-ground to existing bolt next to rear seat bracket. Sanded paint off for better connection.
-Remote wire tapped into fuse #23 via ATR add a circuit in passenger kick panel
-tapped into BOTH rear speaker wires in BOTH b pillars. They are the pairs that are intertwined.
Driver /left
White w green stripe (+)
Brown W yellow stripe (-)
Passenger /right
Brown W white stripe (+)
Brown w blue stripe (-)
-ran the tapped wires into each of the Kicker line out converter wires. Also grounded the brown wire to same spot where I grounded the amp ground
-connected everything
-cut wall carpet so sub can fit better behind seat
-I have sub slightly tilted for now. Will need to cut center bolt and perhaps add 2x4 or something. Currently resting next to bolt closest to outside of truck, while other sids rest on top of bolt closer to center of truck. This gives enough clearance since part of sub is sitting lower and top of box is narrower.
I hope that makes sense and helps out others. I had read several posts /threads where people were experiencing same problems. I could not get the wpt 1212 to sub factory harness method working for the life of me. I was even thinking of tapping directly into factory sub harness wires (skipping wpt 1212 harness) instead of b pillars but just didn't feel like going though that trouble since I could not determine what was not working initially (1212 harness, factory sub, forscan settings). In hindsight, I would have gone this route from beginning (tapping to bpillar speaker wires).
#237
Because no one controls if the producer of the track put the bass in the left channel, the right channel, split them, or otherwise. Especially in live and live/studio recordings, you would risk getting the weak bass channel if you only tap one.
Last edited by Johng3592; 02-18-2017 at 09:09 PM.
#238
Review of Kicker Hideaway
While I'm here, I wanted to first thank Southpaw for the extremely usefull thread.
THen I want to give my thoughts on using the Hideaway. Now, when I first read the thread I immediately opened an Amazon window and ordered all the recommended accessories.
However, the Hideaway comes with all the neccessary wiring. I didn't need any of the extra wiring I bought. If anyone wants a deal on a wiring kit for this job, email me. I'll sell it at 2/3 cost.
I did need the plasatic removal tools. In fact, I should have used them more. I got a little over confident in removing the kick plates and tried to pull the passenger side kick plate by hand - ended up cracking it in two. :/ Use the tools.
As for the mounting, I located it in the center of the vehicle behind the rear seats with the long edge vertical. Once I had it wired, I just left it trapped behind the seat without mounting it, just to check it out. It made a big difference to the sound. However, there was some buzzing.
When I went to mount it, I used the included brackets on the top two of the 4 corners. I used self tapping screws to drive thru the stock felt and into the rear bulkhead. THat worked out great. Having it mounted to the big piece of sheet metal really brings out the performance of the unit. I think there is a large membrane amplification effect of having one end of the unit linked to the center of the big metal sheet. Plus I can now feel the base thru the seat when I turn it up...
One slight drawback is there is just a bit of interference between the amp case and some bracket on the back of the seat. I get a bit of buzz when the seat is up, but nothing when the seat is down. SO, for now I leave the seat down, but will look at moving the unit slightly, or grinding away the edge of a bracket...
THen I want to give my thoughts on using the Hideaway. Now, when I first read the thread I immediately opened an Amazon window and ordered all the recommended accessories.
However, the Hideaway comes with all the neccessary wiring. I didn't need any of the extra wiring I bought. If anyone wants a deal on a wiring kit for this job, email me. I'll sell it at 2/3 cost.
I did need the plasatic removal tools. In fact, I should have used them more. I got a little over confident in removing the kick plates and tried to pull the passenger side kick plate by hand - ended up cracking it in two. :/ Use the tools.
As for the mounting, I located it in the center of the vehicle behind the rear seats with the long edge vertical. Once I had it wired, I just left it trapped behind the seat without mounting it, just to check it out. It made a big difference to the sound. However, there was some buzzing.
When I went to mount it, I used the included brackets on the top two of the 4 corners. I used self tapping screws to drive thru the stock felt and into the rear bulkhead. THat worked out great. Having it mounted to the big piece of sheet metal really brings out the performance of the unit. I think there is a large membrane amplification effect of having one end of the unit linked to the center of the big metal sheet. Plus I can now feel the base thru the seat when I turn it up...
One slight drawback is there is just a bit of interference between the amp case and some bracket on the back of the seat. I get a bit of buzz when the seat is up, but nothing when the seat is down. SO, for now I leave the seat down, but will look at moving the unit slightly, or grinding away the edge of a bracket...
#239
what if I use a line out converter then tie the 2 positive and 2 negative together? It will still be mono?