Epoweredrc

EDIT:
So I pretty much went out and did what i said I had planed to and well, the only good part of buying a OBD cable and downloading For scan is that now I don't have that Annoying Auto Start/stop function, and I was able to stop that annoying Door chime when the doors are open and the key is in the ignition.
I also don't have the Seat belt minder going off if i happen to drive down my driveway to go to my mail box. ( i wear my seat belt on the road but around the yard i don't)
The Plug in the rear driver side pillar ended up being totally useless for me.. I tapped into it to get the Line out wires for my RCA cables and only one of those Violet and green wires were giving off any power. so i wasn't getting anything to my Amp... I read and read and I finally found the best post. It saved me from banging my head into a wall. After 2 days of trying to get this rear WPT1212 plug to work.
BY the way I am so glad I just decided to TAP into the wires and not buy the adapter that would have been a waste of $60.

So what I did end up doing was.
Ran a 12 volt power line from the battery went with a 6 Gauge rather then my normal 4 cause it was already a pain to run a 6 through the firewall. went on the driver side next to the factory wires in the big round rubber. inside the truck and down under the floor guard thing ( not sure what that is called, but had plenty of room for my wire ) Figured 6 GA be fine for my amp and single 10" Sub..
I added a Ground wire from the post where the rear seat connects to the rear wall of the truck , I used a wire brush thing on my drill to get down to the metal.
I then using T taps in the rear Pillar of the truck near where the WPT1212 Adapter plug is located. I unwrapped the green tape around all the wires until I could find the White with green stripe wire along with the Brown with yellow stripe wires.
I put my T taps on these and ran about 2 foot of wire to hook my Stripped RCA cable to these ends...
NO line in convertor or anything, just took a RCA cable and cut it in half so it was about 2 feet long ( enough to reach my subs) and I stripped the end of the wire. the center wire with color is + (Positive ) and the outside that is just wire is the -(negative)
Hooked to those wires, ran my remote wire to the positive of my Fuse block near the amp that the Positive from the battery is hooked to and i had a working sub...

only thing left to do is to run a Remote wire from the Fuse box on the passenger side. Everyone says to use #23 I think i will confirm on my notes. for now just have a switch to cut my amp on and off.


Hello everyone I have a 2017 F-150 with Sync 3 and a 8 inch screen , I need help adding single sub to the truck.
I want to keep all of my bluetooth and navigation working, steering wheel controls and everything. i want to leave the stock radio..
I only say this cause i have read where some have made the stock controls stop working.

I have read and read and watched you tube videos and i just can not find anyone with my same truck year with same sync system and screen size...
I would like to just hook up a line in convertor and a remote wire to hook up a sub. a buddy gave me a 10 inch sub i already have a amp for it..
I was looking at harnesses that plug inline with the stock plugs on back of the cd player and seems like some say they work great some say they stop working.

At this point I am about to just order the for scan tool and tap into the harness in the rear driver side pillar ( I do have it)
but is that really the best way to do it?
I am going to run at least a solid positive from my battery and debating on if i really need to run a ground from the battery or not seems they are a lot of talk about that on these aluminum trucks.


Thanks for any and all info you can give. I want to keep costs low as possible, man these newer trucks suck when comes to trying to do stuff like this. I have installed over 30 new head units and subs to vehicles in my life and normally no big deal but up till now the newest vehicle was around a 2000 model.

HushCarAudio

I can get you setup with the easiest install you can have. I build plug and play harnesses so the signal part of the wiring is super simple. Send me an email if interested.

FKN3PUT

Just tap into the front speaker wires, run them to a line level converter or direct to your amp if it has high level inputs.
Doesn't get any more simple than that, and works great.

HushCarAudio

Not something I would suggest since the rear speaker signals are significantly limited.

Epoweredrc

Wasn't sure where those were at. so i ended up going into the White with green stripe and the Brown with yellow stripe wires at the rear pillar. near the WPT1212 plug.
not sure if these are front or rear? The guy who i found what wires to use back there said it was the rear speaker and most say not to do that, to use the front ones but it sure does sound good.
I am using just a Single 10 inch sub. with a Old Crunch amp i have had for many many years.

FKN3PUT

I followed the same exact thread you found when I did mine a couple years ago, it worked out great and I thought sounded great. But now finding out that the rear speakers have a roll-off at 80hz, I'm going to redo that part of it.

My initial plan is to run new speaker wires to the dash, remove the radio and tap into the front speaker wires right there.
But now after hearing that the sub plug in the back of the truck can be turned on with Forscan, I'm tempted to give that a try. But I have yet to hear if that is a full frequency signal, or if there is some kind of attenuation on it like the rear speakers.

All I need is signal to my amp, already have power & ground. My amp does signal sensing, so I don't need a remote wire.