avalosp

deff gonna add subs in the future but ima run them on a diff amp and im looking to spend around 200 for the amp

avalosp

if you can get me some pics im considering

GATORB8

Are you sure you need full power to all four speakers? I personally don't like rear fill, and would recommend just running the rears off of the head unit (when you have rear seat passengers only) and putting the fronts on a two channel (or running the front two channels of the four channel on the front doors and bridging the rear channels for your sub(s)). Try fading the stereo forward how it is and turning it up. Pay attention to where you hear the sound coming from, the goal is for it to sound like a concert with the sound coming from in front of you at eye level. Having the rear speakers playing can bring your soundstage too far toward the back of the truck.

I wouldn't get too stuck on getting over 100W/channel, at 100W you'll have to get to 200W to add 3 dbs. It will be loud as hell by that time anyway.

That said, I've got the Kenwood Excelon KAC-X4R (found it refurbed around $200) has 100x4 rms (300 bridged for my sub) and has full digital equalization and time delay capabilities.

Other options topping 100W RMS/channel in that price range are the MB Quart DSC4125, Cadence Xa175.4, Eclipse XA4000, Phoenix Gold V754.

Personally, with a decent aftermarket head unit, I'd look at the US Acoustics USB 2080 and 2100 that Audioclinic has on ebay for cheap. I've seen a lot of recommendations from the guys on the SQ forums. (keep in mind the low voltage for the RMS ratings, you'll get more power from those two if you powered them to the 14.4V that the rest of the amps are rated at)

avalosp

thats anotherthing i was thinking about doin running a pair off hu and a 2channel amp to the other pair but i thought it would be louder and crisper if i amped all 4

GATORB8

It will be about twice as loud with the rears running, but keep in mind every time you double the power you roughly double your output. So going from the head at 15W RMS to the amp at 100W RMS, your looking at the ability to get the fronts like 5-6 times louder than you can now with the head faded all the way to the front.

15 W now
30 W - Double now
60 W - Double Double now = 4x as loud
120W - Double double double now = 8x as loud

avalosp

now that was a little more confusing so using the amp would make them 8x as loud.....did you go to school for all this cus you know allot about audio

GATORB8

Sorry that was confusing. Basically I was just trying to say that your front speakers at 100W will be significantly louder than your current set up, so you shouldn't worry about the added volume from the rear speakers.

I started with electrical engineering for a few years at Florida before switching majors, and I worked at a local audio shop in high school. In all reality though, most of what I know comes from diyma.com and research on other sites over the years.

avalosp

well i see it sticks lol so another question my speakers have a button that has 3db and a -3db so which should i keep it at?
edit* oh yea that button is on the tweeter

chelios

that button makes the tweeter either 3db louder or quieter. listen to it both ways and see which way you like more.

avalosp

yea i decided i liked it louder cuz it sounds better from the tweeter sound