microbe0511

For those using a pre-fabed sub box, what did you get? I picked up a Atrend single 10" down firing under seat box and its not quite to my liking. I know making your own to the specs you need is the best option, but that is not my current question.

I'm just looking for suggestions based on your experiences with pre-fabed.

Heavy_Metal

More info please.... What sub are you using? Amp? Source? Truck year, cab version?
Try to provide as many answers in your original post as you can to avoid confusion...

Ive always wondered how well the low pro subs performed compared to conventional subs

microbe0511

Yeah some details might help....

2017 Super Crew w/stock head unit (8" Sync 3)
Alpine SWT-10S2 (2 ohm SVC)
Kenwood XR900-5
JL Fix 86

The box free air space (approx .73 cubic feet) falls within the sub specs of .35-.80, but I added some MDF wood blocks to fill up some space (now .65 cubic feet) to get it closer the optimum volume which is .47 cubic feet.

I also used silicone calk to seal up the seams on the inside of the box and used foam weather stripping under sub before screwing into the box to make sure there are not any air leaks.

RedundanT

That box, as you state, is a little too big for the sub, maybe some polystyrene. Are you taking in account the volume the sub displaces in your figures?

microbe0511

The box is advertised as having .8 cubic feet but based on ACTUAL measurements it is actually .73 cubic feet. The sub displaces .02 cubic feet so the actual volume with the sub and nothing else inside is .71 cubic feet. Would like a deeper bass sound so I prefer to have the volume a little larger than the optimum .47 cubic feet.

A ported box will take up more room than I'm willing to give up under the seats.

Pienstar

I went with the box below from JL Audio. It has 2 8" W3 subs in a ported enclosure. I absolutely love it! It was a bit pricey, but it fits perfectly under the back seat of my 2015 screw and it sounds great.

microbe0511

So I for fun, I built my own sub box. I make to the optimum sub specs for the Alpine SWT-10S2 of .47 cubic feet. Its made from 3/4" MDF. I picked up some Acry-Tech DuraTex coating to paint the box and used socket cap bolts and tee nuts to fasten the sub in the box. All sides are glued and fastened with brad nails. I used silicon calk to seal all edges and foam weather stripping under the sub on the box. Looks pretty good and sounds good too. Not to bad shabby for my first attempt.

dblodg

Part 1 of 2. For some reason the forum software thinks I'm trying to upload double the images I am, so I'll reply to this post with the rest.

To make a long story short, I spent a lot of hours researching subwoofer enclosures for an F-150. I have a 2017 Raptor, but the seat configuration is the same for all Super Crews. There really aren't any good options that make the subwoofer enclosure look like an integrated part of the truck. Even the JL Audio Steal Box looks like crap, in my view, since the edges are square and stick way out, making it hard to get in and out of the back seat, and it extends in front of the seat. I really wanted something that was well integrated with the car and completely unobtrusive. This is what I came up with.

This is how it started -- me rough cutting and tinkering with angles and shapes. The things that I was navigating were: I didn't want to compromise from using 3/4 inch MDF; I had to ensure the appropriate minimum mounting depth for the sub (if I recall it was 4.25; I wanted 2" of bottom clearance at the shortest point to ensure enough room for sub excursion


The construction process. I cut the odd shape because I wanted only right angles to ensure a perfect seal, and I wanted to take advantage of as much air capacity as I could


The glue up - 2 x 4s and cuts of MDF comprised the rough frame for the rounded edge that I'd later bondo. This part didn't need to be airtight -- the box inside was airtight.


This is the bottom of the box. You can see the 2 x 4 pieces I used to provide the right amount of lift. It was important to me that the subwoofers be oriented downward firing


This is the completed box, with Bondo filling out the roughed frame. I didn't go nuts with the sanding since I knew the thick carpet would hide a world of sins

dblodg

Part 2 of 2...


The roughed out box -- the test fit. This is where I was making my final measurements for the bottom frame. It took a lot of experimentation to ensure that I took full advantage of the space but also that the seat wouldn't sit on the box.


Starting the carpeting (which was a bit of a nightmare given the shape of the box


I pre-wired the amp, distribution block, and the capacitor


Finished box from the profile


This is the front of the box. It starts with 2" of clearance at the back of the sub and ends up with 2.75. It gives the kicker Comp RT 10s enough room for excursion (and the fact that the speakers themselves have a pretty high profile)

dhmcfadin

DAMN! That's a hell of a job! Excellent work! Seriously!