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Thoughts on this build

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Old 12-04-2018, 05:37 PM
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Default Thoughts on this build

Im upgrading the sound system on my 2015 F150 SCrew as a Christmas present. Is there anything that i'm missing? I'll consider other builds that are within reason. My local shop quoted me $1200 for everything and that is at the high end of what I wanted to spend. Or I could source the main components myself and just pay for the up-charged labor, which is what i'll probably do since I can find them cheaper. The reasoning for this setup is I want to utilize the rear space behind the seat. I have floor storage so that wouldn't be an option. I'm sticking with the stock head unit and door speaker for now. If I blow them I could replace those later.

Thanks in advance!

- Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10"
- Pioneer UDSW250T Box
- Pioneer GM-D9605 Amp
- AudioControl LC7i
Old 12-04-2018, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bravo9503
Im upgrading the sound system on my 2015 F150 SCrew as a Christmas present. Is there anything that i'm missing? I'll consider other builds that are within reason. My local shop quoted me $1200 for everything and that is at the high end of what I wanted to spend. Or I could source the main components myself and just pay for the up-charged labor, which is what i'll probably do since I can find them cheaper. The reasoning for this setup is I want to utilize the rear space behind the seat. I have floor storage so that wouldn't be an option. I'm sticking with the stock head unit and door speaker for now. If I blow them I could replace those later.

Thanks in advance!

- Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10"
- Pioneer UDSW250T Box
- Pioneer GM-D9605 Amp
- AudioControl LC7i
You would no doubt blow the door speakers. I would replace them at the same time. What were you quoted for labor if you bought the parts? You would also need RCA's, amp wire kit, etc. If your budget is $1200 maybe you will have room to upgrade the door speakers.
Old 12-04-2018, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
You would no doubt blow the door speakers. I would replace them at the same time. What were you quoted for labor if you bought the parts? You would also need RCA's, amp wire kit, etc. If your budget is $1200 maybe you will have room to upgrade the door speakers.
That price included the amp kit and misc material and labor. I probably will get door speakers as well. But, for the setup that I have listed will that be good enough or is it overkill?
Old 12-05-2018, 02:08 AM
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I believe that amp is discontinued and that sub and enclosure combo is questionable if trying to save money. I've completed a review for the Pioneer TS-SWX2502 which can be found online for around $90. That would cut your savings considerably. I don't think you'll need the LC7i to complete this build. I could be wrong but look into forscan using a $20-30 OBD2 tool. Perhaps someone here can confirm. I'm also using the Pioneer TS-A6970F for front door speakers in my truck and love how they sound. They are cheap but sound great. I'm also using aftermarket tweeters in the A pillars. Look for my budget build post and I think it might be eye-opening for you. If you could install some of this stuff yourself you'd save a ton of money. It's not really all that hard to do as many here have done it. Ask around for help. There are a lot of great guys on here willing to provide instructions.
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:32 AM
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Definitely skip the LC7i. Use the ISO-SOT-984-w harness from eBay (same as FOR11-ck, but only $22).

The sub and box are also one of the few combos that fit behind the seats without requiring modification or custom fitting. They can be had for about $120 total online.
You won't get tons of big bass, but it's a solid step up from the all-in-one powered subs out there.

Consider the GM-D8604 amp instead, though. It can be had for about $125, and is enough to power a set of front component speakers and that sub.
Add in a good 4awg amp kit for $50, and you're at about $320 total.

If you want to stick with Pioneer for speakers, grab the TS-D69c components for $160. They're a BIG step up compared the G and A series speakers.

That setup would give you 100w to each front channel, plus 300w to the subwoofer. All for under $500.

I would also grab some Noico 80mil dampener from Amazon. The 10sqft kit for $20 is enough for the front doors, or get the 18sqft kit for $32 to cover all 4 doors. This will help improve the sound output of those new speakers.

Add in speaker adapter rings and speaker wire, you're still under $600 before install.
Old 12-07-2018, 08:08 AM
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Definitely skip the LC7i. Use the ISO-SOT-984-w harness from eBay (same as FOR11-ck, but only $22).
I have to do ALOT more researching into this. I've talked to Crutchfield and others and was informed that if im running 4 door speakers and a sub it would be highly advised to have it. On the other hand, if i was just going to add a amp & sub the LC2i would be fine. They also said suggested 2-way speaker would be good in the rear doors compared to having components. But, I do want to add components in the fronts. My original thought was just going to do a amp and sub and add speakers later but now im leaning to just doing all at the same time.

The sub and box are also one of the few combos that fit behind the seats without requiring modification or custom fitting. They can be had for about $120 total online.
You won't get tons of big bass, but it's a solid step up from the all-in-one powered subs out there.
Yea I'm not looking for anything for a competition, i just want to add something better than stock. I'm not stuck on having ALL pioneer, I think that sub paired with the amp would suit my needs though. But, im open to other suggestions too.

Consider the GM-D8604 amp instead, though. It can be had for about $125, and is enough to power a set of front component speakers and that sub.
Add in a good 4awg amp kit for $50, and you're at about $320 total.
Correct me if my wrong...wouldnt i need a 5-channels for 4 speakers and sub?

If you want to stick with Pioneer for speakers, grab the TS-D69c components for $160. They're a BIG step up compared the G and A series speakers.
Im not a brand loyalist, I just remember Pioneer and Rockford being standouts when I was a teen. That was many years ago, as Im still learning im open to other speaker suggestion without breaking the bank.

That setup would give you 100w to each front channel, plus 300w to the subwoofer. All for under $500.

I would also grab some Noico 80mil dampener from Amazon. The 10sqft kit for $20 is enough for the front doors, or get the 18sqft kit for $32 to cover all 4 doors. This will help improve the sound output of those new speakers.

Add in speaker adapter rings and speaker wire, you're still under $600 before install.
Old 12-07-2018, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bravo9503
I have to do ALOT more researching into this. I've talked to Crutchfield and others and was informed that if im running 4 door speakers and a sub it would be highly advised to have it. On the other hand, if i was just going to add a amp & sub the LC2i would be fine. They also said suggested 2-way speaker would be good in the rear doors compared to having components. But, I do want to add components in the fronts. My original thought was just going to do a amp and sub and add speakers later but now im leaning to just doing all at the same time.
The ISO... harness is just like what you'd use on an older vehicle to install an aftermarket radio. One ends plugs into the radio, and the other end plugs into your factory wiring. And you've got bare speaker wire leads in between to connect how you choose.

Yea I'm not looking for anything for a competition, i just want to add something better than stock. I'm not stuck on having ALL pioneer, I think that sub paired with the amp would suit my needs though. But, im open to other suggestions too.
For a budget setup, the Pioneer sub/box combo is solid. The number of pre-fab boxes that fit behind the seats is extremely limited.


Correct me if my wrong...wouldnt i need a 5-channels for 4 speakers and sub?
You would. I'm recommending only powering the front components and a sub. Leave the rear speakers running off the factory radio power. Each component set (woofer + tweeter) connects to a single amp channel via their passive crossovers.


Im not a brand loyalist, I just remember Pioneer and Rockford being standouts when I was a teen. That was many years ago, as Im still learning im open to other speaker suggestion without breaking the bank.
Pioneer's upper ranges (D and Z series) are a great choice for the money. If you're willing to spend a bit more, look at the Morel Tempo Ultra 692. They're one the top passive 6x9 sets out there.
Powering fronts + sub from the 4 channel, you would run the amp's front channels to the front speakers, and bridge the amp's rear channels to the sub. That would net you 100x2 + 300x1 from the Pioneer GM-D8604.

Last edited by tenx82; 12-07-2018 at 09:27 AM.
Old 12-07-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tenx82
Powering fronts + sub from the 4 channel, you would run the amp's front channels to the front speakers, and bridge the amp's rear channels to the sub. That would net you 100x2 + 300x1 from the Pioneer GM-D8604.
Oh the decision and headaches with all of this. But, I guess it makes it worth will in the end. Someone had recommended the Rockford P3 setup https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...ails/p3s-1x10/ as an alternative to the Pioneer setup. But. I couldnt find spec on the amp to support RMS @ 1ohm only, which is what the P3 is at. I would assume that amp would still be good for that sub but im still learning about all this.
Old 12-07-2018, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bravo9503
Oh the decision and headaches with all of this. But, I guess it makes it worth will in the end. Someone had recommended the Rockford P3 setup https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod...ails/p3s-1x10/ as an alternative to the Pioneer setup. But. I couldnt find spec on the amp to support RMS @ 1ohm only, which is what the P3 is at. I would assume that amp would still be good for that sub but im still learning about all this.
The Pioneer GM-D8604 (and practically all 4 channel amps) can only run 4 ohms in bridged mode. That's a dual voice coil sub, so you could easily make it 4 ohms by switching the POS and NEG connections between the voice coils.

Here's a link to explain.
The top pic is how it comes wired. You'd just re-wire to the bottom pic.

Last edited by tenx82; 12-07-2018 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 12-07-2018, 01:26 PM
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I just bought a GM-D9605 to run the 4 door speakers with a sub in my truck. I have the stock rear door speakers but upgraded the fronts to a set of Morel maximo 6 components. I would highly recommend upgrading the door speakers - the factory speakers just sound like mud and the components were a huge improvement. The amp has remote sensing and can accept speaker-level inputs, so you don't need an LC7i.
I installed everything myself and built my own subwoofer box, but this setup with a jl 10tw3 subwoofer, 4ga wiring kit, 20ft of speedwire and the for11ck ran me about $750 altogether. I did buy scratch and dent from Crutchfield, but everything showed up in perfect operating condition.

Last edited by morello; 12-07-2018 at 01:35 PM.


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