eptesicus

Could I not BiAmp the comps? Run a single amp to both L & R, and have that powered signal split to the tweeter and woofer? That way, I won't need a 4 channel amp running to the components only.

I'd like to just get a 4 channel amp to run the 4 doors. Get something rated at 150W per channel at 4 Ohms, and then get a separate amp for the sub.

Will this work?

Rob J

My opinion is, the CLASS D amps these day have gotten so clean, that for our trucks, it's the way to go, instead of the Class A/B amps. Even with the small footprint of class D amps, it is still a challenge finding a home for the amps. If you want a great amp, look at the JLHD900/5. If it's a bit too rich for your blood, then check out the newer style Alpine PDX series amps. I originally wanted the JL's, but compromised with the Alpines.

eptesicus

I'm glad that you mentioned the Alpine's, because I've been looking at them for the past couple of hours.

I'm looking at:

PDX-F6 for all 4 doors
PDX-M6 for the sub

But I want to find a nice 2ch amp for the tweeters. I think 50W per channel would be best, don't you think?

I saw the Zapco REF200.2, and I think that would be great for the tweeters. Unless getting the Alpine MRP-F300 would be better, and just use 2 of the 4 channels?

I am open to suggestions though. If someone has other recommendations for the tweeters, please chime in. I think though, I'm set on the Alpines.

symon_say

You don't have to use 2 amps, you use 2 if you're going active, but to go active you need and active crossover, preferably in the HU, comps come with a passive crossover and is where you connect your amp, and the speakers are connected to the crossover.

If you want to amp your rear speakers, the best you can to, is get a 4ch amp bridge to 2 channels (this is cheaper than a amp that could make 150Wx2 or 150Wx4), and get the cheap 50W amps for your rears.

symon_say

Class D is a nice amp, but the installs on most F150 are low power installs, most people don't even reach 1000W, and the alt can handle this installs.

Is nice to have lower power consumption, but for the price and for want we are gonna do, i think don't worth it, unless you have the money to spend on then, i had about 1600W on my Explorer and voltage just drop a little at full volume.

Now for subs should be a law that you use class D.

GATORB8

The MLK passive crossovers are bi-ampable.

symon_say

My bad then.

Rob J

I'll be using the Alpine PDX F4 to run the front stage active. Two channels will be powering Dayton RS225 8" Mid/Mid Bass, and the other two, Dayton RS28F tweeters. The M6 will power the sub. I'm not going to use rear fill for now, (even though I have some Infinity 6x8 coax's installed there now) but I may in the future. Later on, I may consider getting another F4, then I would bridge one of them for the 8" mid basss, and use the other for the tweeters, and rear fill. But then I would also have to get some extra processing, as the Alpine Imprint is only good for a 2 way active + sub setup.

eptesicus

I guess I'll start ordering everything once the money comes in. I'm trying to sell my PA folded horn subs to finance half of the stereo. We'll see how that goes. I appreciate everyone's help and recommendations. I want to do the install all at the same time, so I'm just going to order what I can, when I can. Besides the speakers, amps, enclosure, insulation, and wiring, is there anything else I need?

What gauge of wiring is recommended? And how much for this kind of install?

eptesicus

I'm going to need a line output converter, correct? I am also going to need a unit with crossover, eq, etc...

Will the 3sixty.2 cover everything I need? From the HU, to the 3sixty.2, to the amps, to the speakers... Correct?