System Recommendations?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
System Recommendations?
I've been reading a lot of threads on upgrading the factory audio, and there are so many options. I really just need some help from the audio guys here.
I have a 2010 Screw XLT w/ Sync.
I want to keep the factory HU, but replace the 4 door speakers, and add 1 or 2 10" subs in the rear.
My budget is $1000. No more. This needs to include speakers, and inclosures, wiring, etc.
I'm going towards JL for subs, but hear Kicker's are well worth it.
Basically, I need help picking out speakers, subs, and enclosure. I don't want a big enclosure, and I want something that's not going to take up a lot of room, if I need to fold up my rear seats, I don't want a massive enclosure in my way.
I want a system to sound clear, and I want to be able to play FLAC files with my carPC that i'm building, and I want to get great crisp sound. I want a sub or two that adds presence. I want some thump, but I don't want to irritate others while at stop lights...
Any information would be helpful, or if you want to post a configuration that has everything that YOU would get, feel free to post, and give reasons... Again, I want to keep it under $1000
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I have a 2010 Screw XLT w/ Sync.
I want to keep the factory HU, but replace the 4 door speakers, and add 1 or 2 10" subs in the rear.
My budget is $1000. No more. This needs to include speakers, and inclosures, wiring, etc.
I'm going towards JL for subs, but hear Kicker's are well worth it.
Basically, I need help picking out speakers, subs, and enclosure. I don't want a big enclosure, and I want something that's not going to take up a lot of room, if I need to fold up my rear seats, I don't want a massive enclosure in my way.
I want a system to sound clear, and I want to be able to play FLAC files with my carPC that i'm building, and I want to get great crisp sound. I want a sub or two that adds presence. I want some thump, but I don't want to irritate others while at stop lights...
Any information would be helpful, or if you want to post a configuration that has everything that YOU would get, feel free to post, and give reasons... Again, I want to keep it under $1000
Thanks in advance,
Mike
#2
809
JL and kicker subs are like apples and orange, completely different subs, you should be fine getting comps for the front, and some cheap coax for the rear.
What about amps, do you have then?? are they in that budged??
Where are you mounting the touch screen for your carpc??
What about amps, do you have then?? are they in that budged??
Where are you mounting the touch screen for your carpc??
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I don't have amps. I just have the stock system. I heard that the Infinity's were great, but should I get 4 door speakers, plus a 4 channel amp, and also get an amp and sub?
As far as the screen for the carPC goes, I'm getting a 7" Mimo or lilliput usb monitor and am making a bracket/mount that mounts on the underside of the lip above the stereo display. I like this, so I can still read the Ford HU display and access all controls, and the carpc diplay is still within good range, and is actually more level with the road. Also, even though the screen will basically be mounted on top of the dash, the monitor is between my eyes and the hood, so it's not blocking any views of the road.
With the subs, I like the idea of the enclosed downfacing sub. But I'm not sure as to which ones I should get, and if I should get 1 or two.
Should I get a 4channel amp for the door speakers? Which door speakers? Other necessary components?
As far as the screen for the carPC goes, I'm getting a 7" Mimo or lilliput usb monitor and am making a bracket/mount that mounts on the underside of the lip above the stereo display. I like this, so I can still read the Ford HU display and access all controls, and the carpc diplay is still within good range, and is actually more level with the road. Also, even though the screen will basically be mounted on top of the dash, the monitor is between my eyes and the hood, so it's not blocking any views of the road.
With the subs, I like the idea of the enclosed downfacing sub. But I'm not sure as to which ones I should get, and if I should get 1 or two.
Should I get a 4channel amp for the door speakers? Which door speakers? Other necessary components?
#4
I don't have amps. I just have the stock system. I heard that the Infinity's were great, but should I get 4 door speakers, plus a 4 channel amp, and also get an amp and sub?
As far as the screen for the carPC goes, I'm getting a 7" Mimo or lilliput usb monitor and am making a bracket/mount that mounts on the underside of the lip above the stereo display. I like this, so I can still read the Ford HU display and access all controls, and the carpc diplay is still within good range, and is actually more level with the road. Also, even though the screen will basically be mounted on top of the dash, the monitor is between my eyes and the hood, so it's not blocking any views of the road.
With the subs, I like the idea of the enclosed downfacing sub. But I'm not sure as to which ones I should get, and if I should get 1 or two.
Should I get a 4channel amp for the door speakers? Which door speakers? Other necessary components?
As far as the screen for the carPC goes, I'm getting a 7" Mimo or lilliput usb monitor and am making a bracket/mount that mounts on the underside of the lip above the stereo display. I like this, so I can still read the Ford HU display and access all controls, and the carpc diplay is still within good range, and is actually more level with the road. Also, even though the screen will basically be mounted on top of the dash, the monitor is between my eyes and the hood, so it's not blocking any views of the road.
With the subs, I like the idea of the enclosed downfacing sub. But I'm not sure as to which ones I should get, and if I should get 1 or two.
Should I get a 4channel amp for the door speakers? Which door speakers? Other necessary components?
Might be able to save you some cash as well.
#5
Senior Member
First off, I highly recommend doing your research and not getting caught up in the Brand Names. Both Kicker and JL make decent products, but you can get more performance for less money if you look around and read reviews. diyma.com is a great resource for reviews, classifieds, and "hot deals" posts.
6 1/2 " or 6x8 components in the front doors. I would do bandpassed mid basses in the rear doors for rear fill run off of the head unit with inline xovers. This way, if you decide to stick with a single 10, you can look at using a 100WRMSx4 and run a single amp system. You'll do better with a seperate mono class D sub amp and 2/4 channel A/B class mids/highs amp if you go to two 10s due to power demand.
You should consider using some of the money on Sound Deadening (I don't mean dynamat, check out sounddeadenershowdown.com). For LOC you may want to use a Bass Reconstruction Processor like the MTX R-eq to correct the bass drop off from the head unit, otherwise I recommend davidnavone.com. knukonceptz.com is one of the best deals for quality wiring (I recommend the kollossus series).
My 06 scab setup:
Head Unit: Stock Audiophile MP3/CD6 w/ Sirius
Harnesses: Metra 70-5520 (to truck), 71-5520 (reverse) - $15
LOC for Fronts: DavidNavone N-RHL2 - $30
Front Stage: Pioneer Premier TS-D720C 6.75" Comps - $120
Rear Stage: None
Sub Stage: Peerless 830876 10" XXLS Subwoofer 4 Ohm - $125
Sub Box: Qlogic Qcustom Sealed .65cf - $50
Amp: Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X4R - 100Wx2 at 4 ohms to front stage - 300Wx1 at 4 ohms to sub stage - $200
Wiring: Knuconcepts Kolossus 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit, Klear Kable Blue Speaker wire: 10 AWG - 3 ft and 12 AWG extra 20ft - ~$70
Estimated Total ~$610
6 1/2 " or 6x8 components in the front doors. I would do bandpassed mid basses in the rear doors for rear fill run off of the head unit with inline xovers. This way, if you decide to stick with a single 10, you can look at using a 100WRMSx4 and run a single amp system. You'll do better with a seperate mono class D sub amp and 2/4 channel A/B class mids/highs amp if you go to two 10s due to power demand.
You should consider using some of the money on Sound Deadening (I don't mean dynamat, check out sounddeadenershowdown.com). For LOC you may want to use a Bass Reconstruction Processor like the MTX R-eq to correct the bass drop off from the head unit, otherwise I recommend davidnavone.com. knukonceptz.com is one of the best deals for quality wiring (I recommend the kollossus series).
My 06 scab setup:
Head Unit: Stock Audiophile MP3/CD6 w/ Sirius
Harnesses: Metra 70-5520 (to truck), 71-5520 (reverse) - $15
LOC for Fronts: DavidNavone N-RHL2 - $30
Front Stage: Pioneer Premier TS-D720C 6.75" Comps - $120
Rear Stage: None
Sub Stage: Peerless 830876 10" XXLS Subwoofer 4 Ohm - $125
Sub Box: Qlogic Qcustom Sealed .65cf - $50
Amp: Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X4R - 100Wx2 at 4 ohms to front stage - 300Wx1 at 4 ohms to sub stage - $200
Wiring: Knuconcepts Kolossus 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit, Klear Kable Blue Speaker wire: 10 AWG - 3 ft and 12 AWG extra 20ft - ~$70
Estimated Total ~$610
Last edited by GATORB8; 08-05-2010 at 01:18 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comment and good information Gator. I'll look into all of that.
I've been hearing that it would be good to get something like a 3sixty.2 and run an amp for the 4 door speakers, and an amp for a sub. I like that route. Any reason to steer away from that?
I've been hearing that it would be good to get something like a 3sixty.2 and run an amp for the 4 door speakers, and an amp for a sub. I like that route. Any reason to steer away from that?
#7
809
As Gatorb8 said the options you have to chose are basically, 1 sub or 2 subs, 1 amp or 2 amps, if you just want and upgraded system you can do it with 1 amp 1 sub combo, but if you wan a system that gets decently loud you should get 2 amp 2 subs combo.
The first one is easy and more cheap, for the 2nd one you need to do a little research to keep it under budged but it won't be to hard.
If i have $1000 to spend and don't know where to look, i'll get this:
Subs: 2 10" DC sound LVl 2 aprox $300
http://www.dcsoundlab.com/specs.html
Subbox: any box for 2 10", i've heard supercrew are good $134 (box could be any i build my boxes)
http://www.supercrewsound.com/commer...Id=10&catId=58
Front speakers: Pioneer TS-D1720C comps $120
http://www.millionbuy.com/pitst226cosp.html
Sub amp: this hifonics $180
http://www.millionbuy.com/hifbxi1210d.html
Speakers amp: this hifonics $130
http://www.millionbuy.com/hifzxi4410.html
That's a total of $864, that leaves about $130 for wiring, You can do better with the amps, hifonics have always been a good brand, a little bit overrated but both amps a over your needs.
The first one is easy and more cheap, for the 2nd one you need to do a little research to keep it under budged but it won't be to hard.
If i have $1000 to spend and don't know where to look, i'll get this:
Subs: 2 10" DC sound LVl 2 aprox $300
http://www.dcsoundlab.com/specs.html
Subbox: any box for 2 10", i've heard supercrew are good $134 (box could be any i build my boxes)
http://www.supercrewsound.com/commer...Id=10&catId=58
Front speakers: Pioneer TS-D1720C comps $120
http://www.millionbuy.com/pitst226cosp.html
Sub amp: this hifonics $180
http://www.millionbuy.com/hifbxi1210d.html
Speakers amp: this hifonics $130
http://www.millionbuy.com/hifzxi4410.html
That's a total of $864, that leaves about $130 for wiring, You can do better with the amps, hifonics have always been a good brand, a little bit overrated but both amps a over your needs.
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#8
I second diyma.com. Great forum!!!! Because of diyma, I'm doing a completely different system than i had originally planned. I'll have a build log up soon of my system. Most of the materials are in, and I'll be getting started in the next week or so.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
As for a sub, I'm looking at the SI BM MKIII in the single 12" SuperCrewSound enclosure. Amp recommendations for this sub? Or would anyone recommend a better enclosure since the BM is a shallower sub? I want to take up as little space as possible.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#10
809
But you should look somewhere else if you're buying any time soon, they can last month or no, before you can really have one.
That was the sub i want, but ended buying memphis Sclass, shallows, haven't install yet, but i might in a few days.