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Thank you. I suspect it's a combination. The cheap factory paper sub with the stamped basket is no match for even a mid-level sub like the Rockford. Adding the Dynamat also helped damp the box no doubt.
I stuff my 19 B&O box. I noticed tighter bass. The other thing I want to add is I got the Sync 3.4 update right after. I think it scaled the output for better.
I'm happier with it. But not fully happy with it. I did get a comment about how the clarity was compared to my friends 20' Ram with the Alpine.
Would getting a 2ohm DVC help eak out some power? Possibly blow the amp or thermal protection would kick in?
I've been thinking about a 10" powered unit due to limited space and wanting everything behind the seat.
I stuff my 19 B&O box. I noticed tighter bass. The other thing I want to add is I got the Sync 3.4 update right after. I think it scaled the output for better.
I'm happier with it. But not fully happy with it. I did get a comment about how the clarity was compared to my friends 20' Ram with the Alpine.
Would getting a 2ohm DVC help eak out some power? Possibly blow the amp or thermal protection would kick in?
I've been thinking about a 10" powered unit due to limited space and wanting everything behind the seat.
I was able to get a focal 21wx behind the seat in a wedge box. Had to make a new oem amp mount and carpet removal. If you find a shallow mount sub you can absolutely make a box to fit without adding a seat bracket that shifts the seat forward. I used the oem amp output into an aftermarket amp. It was an improvement but I suspect that the crossover point for the oem sub messed with the output of the 21wx. Ive since moved up to a 10in focal and the seat shift bracket became necessary.
Aluminum oem amp.mount. allowed me to shift the sub to the drivers side more.
Temporary cheap and easy setup.
21wx in a 14 litre box.
All amps and sub behind the seat for 11 channels. Its tight, but it fits. And I can still use all my floor space.
@EODBRAD
did you relocate the window slider motor?
did you also try and change out the oem woofer to a different one before your build?
I read that there are settings that can change the sub out singal...think in the raptor or ranger forums.
@EODBRAD
did you relocate the window slider motor?
did you also try and change out the oem woofer to a different one before your build?
I read that there are settings that can change the sub out singal...think in the raptor or ranger forums.
I left the window motor where its supposed to be. I also didn't use any forescan tools to change settings...though that may have helped. I didnt mess with the oem sub box at all, wasnt worth the trouble.
I got around to gathering all of needed parts the past few weeks and replaced the factory sub today with the Rockford Fosgate 8" 4ohm DVC shallow mount sub. Installation was quite simple and for less than $200 in parts, is a nice upgrade. The sound difference is not night and day, as would be expected by replacing one 8" sub with another using the same amplification, but it is definitely noticeable in a good way. The bass is much tighter now. The factory amp has more than enough power to drive the Rockford 8" sub.
A few tips for those who might want to give it a try. There are no connectors available to mate with the factory sub connectors. I even contacted Digikey (with pictures provided) and they came up empty. So your choices are to cut the sub connectors off or tap into the wires. I opted to tap into the wires just in case I was not happy with the replacement and the results of my experiment. There are two pairs of speaker wires (one for each voice coil). There is a green/white pair and a red/black pair. I measured both and the white and black are the negative wires in each pair.
It was easier to remove the plastic sub box than to try to work with it in place. I'm glad I removed it. I was able to cover the entire box with Dynamat. I also noticed that the box was ported at the bottom, which was not obvious with it in place. The box is not nearly large enough to support the Rockford Fosgate sub with a ported install, but it is pretty close to the spec Rockford published for a sealed enclosure. So, I sealed the port. I also put some polyfill into the box.
The Rockford sub fits perfectly. There is a small alignment tab on the perimeter of the speaker opening on the box that is used to align with a notch the factory sub. That had to be cut off. Other than that and having to drill new holes for the Rockford screws (not surprisingly the stock speaker mounting holes do not align with the myriad mounting holes on the Rockford sub). Everything fit nicely, including the Rockford trim ring.
A few pictures of the box with and without the Rockford speaker are attached. In sum, I am pleased with the results of my experiment.
Hi,
Can you tell me exactly which wires you connected to the Rockford sub? There are 2 pairs on the factory sub, and only one set of inputs on the replacement sub.
You said “there is a green/white pair and a red/black pair. I measured both and the white and black are the negative wires in each pair.“
this is probably a dumb newb question, but did you tie the white and black together and run to the - on the Rockford and the green and red together to the + ?
You need a DVC sub...what's known as a dual voice coil sub woofer.. it will accept two pairs of wires for a situation like this in the F150.
I don't believe anyone has found out how the amp is wired internally...meaning parallel or series.
Thanks for the quick reply. I just changed out all the front speakers with Focal and that made a huge difference. I was hoping to use a Focal sub, but with an 8 inch 4ohm and limited to ~ 3 inches depth it looks like the options are extremely limited.
Thanks for the quick reply. I just changed out all the front speakers with Focal and that made a huge difference. I was hoping to use a Focal sub, but with an 8 inch 4ohm and limited to ~ 3 inches depth it looks like the options are extremely limited.
Or if you can fit 4" of mounting depth (maybe a small spacer) https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1102. (note: These are 8 ohms so they probably wouldn't work great for your application)
I have the 6.5" of these in my doors from 80hz-350hz and they are beasts. They also play fairly flat down to 20hz so I can only imagine the 8" would be better.
06-22-2019, 07:12 PM
