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Sub Testing

Old 07-10-2012, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeBoost
The grills will come out from the front. Pull up and out on the bottoms and work around the perimeter.
ok... then what?

Watch the cones to see which one is moving out when it should be moving in? Or is this where the 9v battery comes into play.
Old 07-10-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Guinness68
Back to me...?
Sorry bro lol
Old 07-10-2012, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Guinness68
Or is this where the 9v battery comes into play.
Yup, when you connect + to + and - to -, the speaker should be in it's "out" position (and will stay there). Don't leave it on there for a long time, but 10 second spurts shouldn't hurt anything.
Old 07-10-2012, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by amick218
Sorry bro lol
No apology necessary. I was just messing with ya'll.
Old 07-13-2012, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GATORB8
Yup, when you connect + to + and - to -, the speaker should be in it's "out" position (and will stay there). Don't leave it on there for a long time, but 10 second spurts shouldn't hurt anything.
Cool, I never knew that^ Thanks for sharing
Old 07-17-2012, 01:42 PM
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Sub is 80-90% perfect. The fix? STUFFED it with PolyFill.

I think I mentioned somewhere that the shop in town told me that he was at a training and all subs benefit from polyfill. Use it and don't be bashfull.

He was right.

It sounds much better. Not exactly perfect, but very good. I still may build another box, OR get a different driver. Haven't decided yet.

As per the polarity test... I couldn't figure out a way to test from the HU. I downloaded an app from JL Audio which can test polarity. I tested all four doors and they were wired correctly.

Then I ran set up yet again, this time turning up the Max volume to the "m". Then I used the custom HU mode, set crossovers, zero'd out timing numbers, and saved.

Everything sounds so much better! WOW... not kidding. It flipping sounds GREAT! (except for a low hiss on talk radio stations.)
Old 07-17-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Guinness68
Sub is 80-90% perfect. The fix? STUFFED it with PolyFill.

I think I mentioned somewhere that the shop in town told me that he was at a training and all subs benefit from polyfill. Use it and don't be bashfull.

He was right.

It sounds much better. Not exactly perfect, but very good. I still may build another box, OR get a different driver. Haven't decided yet.

As per the polarity test... I couldn't figure out a way to test from the HU. I downloaded an app from JL Audio which can test polarity. I tested all four doors and they were wired correctly.

Then I ran set up yet again, this time turning up the Max volume to the "m". Then I used the custom HU mode, set crossovers, zero'd out timing numbers, and saved.

Everything sounds so much better! WOW... not kidding. It flipping sounds GREAT! (except for a low hiss on talk radio stations.)
So can I just stuff it in there it doesn't it have to be glued and what not in the box?

Glad you got it sounding better! I have an undersized box and no poly I want to add about a pound.
Old 07-17-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by amick218
So can I just stuff it in there it doesn't it have to be glued and what not in the box?

Glad you got it sounding better! I have an undersized box and no poly I want to add about a pound.
I used silicone to strategically tact the poly fill in place. The guy at the shop said Dacron is the best (as opposed to poly fill.) Use about .9-1lb per cuft as a rule of thumb.

Let me try to define "STUFF". I didn't pack it too tight, but I did fill every void around the driver with poly fill. Then to test, I'd use four fingers spread wide. If I was able to wiggle my fingers in, without moving the clump of fill away, it was good. If not, I'd add more. Not sure if that helps.
Old 07-17-2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Guinness68

Let me try to define "STUFF". I didn't pack it too tight, but I did fill every void, I'd use four fingers spread wide. If I was able to wiggle my fingers in, it was good. Not sure if that helps.
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