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Stock power?

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Old 09-07-2018, 10:39 PM
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Default Stock power?

Is it worth upgrading the front and rear door speakers on a 2018 XLT without adding a amp to give them more power?
Old 09-08-2018, 04:37 AM
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They wouldn't perform their best unless you amp them. The factory unit is not sending very much power and the signal the speakers are receiving is being limited by the headunit. The stock unit clips some frequencies so that your stock speakers will survive at higher volume. Replacement speakers will be able to play more frequencies but unless they are amped, they won't be performing their best. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:00 AM
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What’s the cheapest/best way to get them the power they need?

Last edited by LowHangingFruit; 09-27-2018 at 09:33 PM.
Old 09-08-2018, 10:25 AM
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A speaker upgrade alone can give you better sound, but would be fairly limited by the factory tuning.

IDEALLY, you would use Forscan to remove the factory EQ settings, run your speaker wires (via harness & soldered RCAs) to a DSP, then to a 4+ channel amp, then to your speakers.

That said, you could "cheat" like I did and get the Kicker Key180.4 amp and a ISO-SOT-984-w harness. It's 45w x 4ch with a built-in auto-calibrated DSP functions. It's far inferior to a properly tuned DSP, but far superior to running the factory EQ on quality aftermarket speakers. The amp runs $200 and the harness is $30.
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Old 09-08-2018, 12:04 PM
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I changed all my speakers to varying models of Infinity and added a JL Audio mini sub. To me, it's night and day over the stock system even using just the head unit. I'm not looking to get head pounding sound using an amp. At any rate, this is a very subjective story and the sound one is looking for is clearly up to the 'ear' of the beholder. I like mine as it is. My suggestion is to do this in stages until you get the sound you're looking for. Speakers first, add what you think you need later. It's your ears.
Old 09-09-2018, 12:12 PM
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personally i always suggest starting with the source, the headunit. replacing that alone will be a dramatic improvement even with the stock speakers. then speakers, then the amp. you get the biggest bang for your buck to start and can upgrade the rest as your budget allows.
Old 09-09-2018, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nineball
personally i always suggest starting with the source, the headunit. replacing that alone will be a dramatic improvement even with the stock speakers. then speakers, then the amp. you get the biggest bang for your buck to start and can upgrade the rest as your budget allows.
If he has the 8" Sync 3 system, it's almost impossible to change the head unit. There are just too many features tied into it.
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tenx82
If he has the 8" Sync 3 system, it's almost impossible to change the head unit. There are just too many features tied into it.
Exactly. The only other way around this is to flatten the signal, feed it into a DSP, and then amp the signal going to new speakers but doing all that won't be cheap.
Old 09-09-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tenx82
A speaker upgrade alone can give you better sound, but would be fairly limited by the factory tuning.

IDEALLY, you would use Forscan to remove the factory EQ settings, run your speaker wires (via harness & soldered RCAs) to a DSP, then to a 4+ channel amp, then to your speakers.

That said, you could "cheat" like I did and get the Kicker Key180.4 amp and a ISO-SOT-984-w harness. It's 45w x 4ch with a built-in auto-calibrated DSP functions. It's far inferior to a properly tuned DSP, but far superior to running the factory EQ on quality aftermarket speakers. The amp runs $200 and the harness is $30.
Is the harness necessary, or just a convenience?
Old 09-09-2018, 08:10 PM
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The harness is only so you don't cut the factory speaker outputs coming from the CD player unit. Its just convenience.


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