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This is mostly similar to my planned build. Still gathering pieces with the AC D-6.1200 as the final large bit. Has anyone put the amp rack in without cutting up rear pad? I think I read about someone flattening theirs out...I need a finished look if I cut the pad. 4ga welding wire and distribution blocks with cable clips coming soon. Getting anxious to start this project but time is NOT on my side right now with work and everything else going on.....o well. Enjoy seeing what everyone else is doing, keep up the great work my friends!
This is mostly similar to my planned build. Still gathering pieces with the AC D-6.1200 as the final large bit. Has anyone put the amp rack in without cutting up rear pad? I think I read about someone flattening theirs out...I need a finished look if I cut the pad. 4ga welding wire and distribution blocks with cable clips coming soon. Getting anxious to start this project but time is NOT on my side right now with work and everything else going on.....o well. Enjoy seeing what everyone else is doing, keep up the great work my friends!
Papermaker, in hindsight I could have made the rack and left the pad place. I might end up buying a new pad down the road anyways. Tacsa has it for 80.00, so that's the reason I cut it out. Any reason you aren't going with 2GA vs 4 GA? Also, are you routing under the chassis or thru the cab? I understand about the time, the 3 ways got pushed off for a number of reason. I kind of wished I did go with the D-6.1200 VS the LC-6.1200 but I got a hell of deal of the LC6-1200 from SonicAudio. I hated not buying from Bruce, but I don't think most people would have turned that deal down either. It was an open box 200.00 cheaper then anyone else price! BTW, if you end up using ABS. You can bend it, it just takes time and a heat gun. It took forever to get the plastic up to temp, but once it was it was very easy to bend. Where are you mount the subwoofer? If you need any pointers or help let me know, I will be glad to help. One other work of advice, I would be a circuit breaker up front instead of a fuse. It's makes service very easy and safe, as when disconnect it's disconnected vs a fuse you still have the live side floating around inside the engine bay. Just don't waste your money on a stinger there are a couple of those one that are cheaper and are the exact same unit.
This is mostly similar to my planned build. Still gathering pieces with the AC D-6.1200 as the final large bit. Has anyone put the amp rack in without cutting up rear pad? I think I read about someone flattening theirs out...I need a finished look if I cut the pad. 4ga welding wire and distribution blocks with cable clips coming soon. Getting anxious to start this project but time is NOT on my side right now with work and everything else going on.....o well. Enjoy seeing what everyone else is doing, keep up the great work my friends!
I have one amp (NVX 11005) and the Dayton 408. I managed to squeeze it behind the pad. It is not a perfect fit but looks stock. I have checked the amp a few times and it run cool. Here is my amp rack. I pushed it as far against the drivers side C pillar cover as I could and have about a half inch clearance over the back vent.
Looks good, I am just wondering how hot the AC will run. What are you doing for a subwoofer? Is there any reason that you are not keeping the Dayton and just going with an LC6? Are you just looking to save space? BTW the ABS was really easy to work with one I figured out how to bend it.
Using 4ga because the manual says it will take it plus it's the same as my LC 1.800. Only a short run so I don't think I will lose much power. I have a 200 amp circuit breaker for the engine bay. Sub is JL stealthbox (single). Got it for a steal(50% off delivered).....couldn't turn it down. Have the 8" stealthbox in my smart and love it. Was looking yesterday at going along frame and up through the floor access panel. Still might do firewall, haven't decided yet. I have an ABS sheet and have been trolling Instagram for layout and shape/design. Only have 1/4"......like some of 5 Stars set ups. Have some ideas of my own but I need to get back seats out. Any tips or suggestions are ways welcome. Thanks!
A small thing but when taking the back seats out there is a bolt between the two bottom cushions, near where they bolt to the floor, that bolts the two seat frames together that I did not see until I tried to wrestle them out.
Using 4ga because the manual says it will take it plus it's the same as my LC 1.800. Only a short run so I don't think I will lose much power. I have a 200 amp circuit breaker for the engine bay. Sub is JL stealthbox (single). Got it for a steal(50% off delivered).....couldn't turn it down. Have the 8" stealthbox in my smart and love it. Was looking yesterday at going along frame and up through the floor access panel. Still might do firewall, haven't decided yet. I have an ABS sheet and have been trolling Instagram for layout and shape/design. Only have 1/4"......like some of 5 Stars set ups. Have some ideas of my own but I need to get back seats out. Any tips or suggestions are ways welcome. Thanks!
I see what you are saying about the wire. I ran 2GA because I was also running the microsub and it required 8Ga (it has a 250Watt class D amp). Maybe it was a little over kill, but that's the way I run. The seat are pretty, I really did not pull them out to install the back plate as I had the "Seat extenders" already in place (until this weekend when I pulled them out). The way I did my design, the board sits on top of the seat bas, then I have a washers between the nut and the plastic. It works great as I don't have to pull the seat out to pull the board. Just two nuts at the base and two bolts at the top. I did a little bit of a spacer around the vent panel. Also, it you are going to use plastic I would recommend using a tap set. It makes installing stuff on the board a breeze! 1/4 is the perfect thickness. Also, you do have a one of these?
Borrowed one of those from a buddy, it's okay. The other on is a lot better, I would recommend that you use the aluminum inserts and not the brass (The brass will work, it's just a lot harder to compress vs the aluminum)
05-18-2019, 01:57 PM
