lennybg

2013 XLT 4.3 screen radio..
I replaced the factory front speakers with Rockford Fosgate 6x8's
About to change out the rear as well but was trying to decide if im going to go with the same ones, OR take the new ones from the front and put them in the rear and install
component speakers in the front. I will also be installing an Alpine 100w compact amp to power the front and rears.
Any suggestions?
I'm not looking for competition level sound just want to clean it up and will be installing a 12 or dual 10 inch subs under the rear seat in the future.
Thanks

Stu Cazzo

If youre going to do it - do it right.
Get the same speakers for rear as are installed in front.


My choice is the 6x8 infinity kappa paired with a 475 4 channel infinity amp - i already have factory sub

lennybg

That's kinda what I was thinking. but then thought since i already had tweeters in the pillars there was no need to also have them "on" the door speakers.
I have the Rockford Fosgate R169 6x8 in the front right now, so Ill just get the same for the rear.

HushCarAudio

I ran coax on front and rear along with tweeters in the top pods. Sounds awesome.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Same here

RLXXI

When I upgraded my 2013 XLT I put marine rated Polk Audio 5x7's front and rear, marine rated because the doors are not sealed and regular speakers won't last in that humid environment. Was a mild improvement. Left the OEM tweeters in place and did not use any new wiring for any of the door speakers. Stock wires can handle plenty.

Then I added a made for OEM 200W Kicker 10" self powered sub and HUGE improvement.

Fast forward I replaced the stock 4.2" stereo with an Alpine 9" touch screen system and DAMN!!!!! Hit the gold mine for sound quality bar none. I had no idea the head unit could make such a dramatic improvement but it damn sure did. only 18W nominal 50W/channel max so I'm getting ready to install an inline Alpine amp that's plug-n-play for the head unit and factory harness that'll boost it another 50W/ch.

Complete system will only be 400W.

Not that it really needs the extra power just I have it so I might as well install it LOL.
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tenx82

Depending on your ears (and your specific speakers), 2 sets of coax plus tweeters might sound harsh. But if it sounds good to you, go for it.

If you're going mini-amp, check out the Kicker Key180.4. I'm really liking mine now. Took me a few tries to get mine dialed in, but it's a huge improvement. It's a bit more money than most other 45-50x4 minis, but has a built in DSP that will set your EQ and time alignment automatically using the included microphone and downloaded audio track.

nineball

unless you live in a really, really humid area (like near a coast) you won't have too many worries about using non-marine speakers, if any. while it's true the doors are not sealed and will never be there isn't a lot of water entering thanks to our trucks being relatively new and having good seals on the windows. if you are really worried about it you can get foam baffles to act as rain guards.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...les-VXT68.html

simply cut off half the back and the bottom around the speaker so it acts as a cover and it will stop any water that may enter the door from touching the speaker and falling to the bottom where the drain holes are. here is an example i did on a 6.5" speaker:



i agree on the new headunit. the factory system, as it is delivered, is not only really low on power but it has built-in eq curves to "protect" the cheap paper speakers it comes with. in the most basic of terms it is tuned like a bell curve, meaning taking out the upper end frequencies as well as the lower end, and it is consistent across the entire spectrum. changing to a new headunit is ALWAYS the first step i take or suggest. it is the starting point of a sound system and everything else is dependent on it.

Stu Cazzo

I dont know why people think they need marine speakers in their doors...you dont!
If you're concerned about keeping speakers clean here is a product I used when I upgraded my speakers.
Improves sound, keeps dust (and all that water) out of speaker - works great!

I layered this self adhesive sound deadening over door pushing an indent into the speaker cavity. Pierced a small hole for the connection which sealed righ up with a pinch.

RLXXI

Over the years of doing audio system upgrades I've pulled more rotting speakers out of doors than I care to admit. Rotting due to water intrusion, it's why they put drain holes in the bottoms of the doors. While marine grade is not required it doesn't hurt and has zero effect on overall sound quality. Price was right as well.

2 sets of these for the past 5+ years and still sound as good as they did new, actually better with the HU upgrade.
I figure if I ever upgrade them to something else, I can stick those in my boat. Never hurts to plan ahead.

P.S. Where I live (Gulf Coast) humidity is almost always above 80% usually 90% and above. Current reading.


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