ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Gator, I am actually not that familiar with the 11/12th generation pickups. Luckily, I had a guy around my area who rebuilds/builds cast for different alternator applications. I snagged up a Bosch out of a 4 door Mercedes E class and he fabricated the cast iron mounting block.

So, I don't think that route would be the most efficient way. Shipping cast iron and copper can be expensive! As bad as I hate to say it; ebay or autozone/advance may be your best option. I think a 180 would work good, or if you wanted to go all out, go with a 220 or so.

Bosch makes good ones, but you pay dearly for them. Sorry I can't be of more help here, I have really no idea how or what fits the 04-08 models. I live back in the stone age with my 03

Nice Sweater

Wait, would getting another alternator mean replacing my existing one with a larger one, or adding a second one? This whole battery/supply thing is making me nervous. Although I would love the newer version of the subwoofer, I am sorting thinking otherwise...

KingRanch4Life

iTrader: (2)

Class D amp for sure on the amp... Mono... Biggest thing I think is cooling capabilities... My old kicker ax 2500.1 stayed cool when I beat on it.. 2hr trip and a headache and it was warm to the touch... I have no experience with Rockford or alpine.... My current amp is OF COURSE RE AUDIO.... DTS 1000.1... The reviews say it does not overheat in tight places..

My system totals about 1500 watts total... My capacitor is a 5 farad hybrid competition.... I have plenty of extra power when I need it... If you have Alpine already stick with that and add to it... Me, if I have a kicker sub I want kicker amps.... So RE Audio amp and sub for me

Nice Sweater

I thought class D wasn't as good as the BD (or whatever that class was). What's your input on the power supply setup? Should I go with the older 600 watt Type-R's, or the newer version 1,000 watt (if I read correctly)? What should I do with this battery situation? Also, if I went with the lower/older version 600 watt would I still need a second battery?

My system will get used, but I'm not a crazy kid that plays it going down the street to where your house shakes. I play my stereo every so often when I drive around town, not serious loud, just normal, unless I like the song (). I rarely will play my sound system with the truck turned off, although I have down it a few times before. I try and run my truck every so often if I do attempt that, so my battery doesn't die. Whenever I take road trips (hour & a half average, and up to 8 hours) I always play my iPod from my stereo, but I keep the truck cool inside, and make sure that the amp is cooled as well. With that being said, what road should I choose?

PS: I don't know if this makes an impact on the power supply, or battery situation, but I might see if my friend can put a switch in to where I can turn the power to my amp and subwoofers off completely, and be able to turn on the subs when I want to, but still use the stereo/ door speakers. He did this to my old ST, with 2 12" in the rear with a capacitor, and it worked out well. I could flip the switch anytime I wanted the subs back there on, and I could cruise comfortable without them too. Is this something that may help me out, or that I should look into?

KingRanch4Life

iTrader: (2)

A capacitor is only going to supply that immediate power... After that it has to charge back up.... Thats why i went 4 times over my stereo load... I only use one to lessen the stress on my OEM alternator it's not constantly trying to charge one battery that's powering vehicle accessories and stereo equipment.. Long trips I turn the amp off when I'm done with it are dial back the bass to negative... Truck turned off... Sketchy... I've done a hour in my expedition with two batteries... One battery... Don't know.. I know lights in the cab kills batteries quicker than shiit...

Alpine.... Still not certain.. 600 vs. 1000 same hertz?? Same capabilities then I'd choose 600.... Don't know how big Alpine amps are either...

Nice Sweater

Here are the links to the page comparing amps, and then two separate links to the 600 watt sub, and the 1,000 watt sub;

Amps;
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compa...id%5B%5D=26278

Subwoofers, comparing older version to newer version;
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...0SWR10D4&g=520

KingRanch4Life

iTrader: (2)

I'd go with the expensive one 10D4.... 5 7/8 mounting depth.... Airspace for sealed is .58... The amp... Wow... The class D is not 1 ohm stable?? Gotta take a gander at the BD amps... Hold one

Okay... Looks like BD is a redefined beefed up D... Uses less power with big results...
http://www.carsound.com/news/archives/8_17_100_1.shtml

Nice Sweater

Alright, so BD is better than D? Does that mean I should go with Rockford Fosgate's amp then?

KingRanch4Life

iTrader: (2)

Thats what it looks like to me.... I think one of my older amps require 16.4volts... There was no way i could maintain that... Still researching this BD amp.....

Nice Sweater

I think I'm decided on the T1500, although the Alpine would've been sweet. I need help on one thing though. I found this amp at three different places, and now I found it at Bestbuy (I know, but it could save me money). I have the link to the exact amp, Rockford Fosgate T1500, at Sonic Electronics (where I was going to buy it from), and now I found it at Bestbuy too. However, the name is the exact same, I don't know if it is still the same amp, or some knock off. I would love to get it from Bestbuy if it is the same amp, because it's cheaper, and I could get a good warranty through them as well.

Sonic Electronics;
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...010-Model.html

Bestbuy;
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rockford...&skuId=3272044

They look the same to me...