nineball

i run the dps.2 in one of my cars and love it. great dsp.

MDXLT

I'm following this because I'm getting ready to do the 'AudioFrog tune'. Since I'm a newbie at this, What I've done so far simply using the Dayton 408 program has made a significant difference understanding that this is only basic to what can be done with the UM-1 and REW. I don't want to go into the REW programming without having a better understanding than what I have now which is nil. That's where I'm at now but with past experience with the players on this thread, I'll gain some knowledge and a feel for getting the job done. So, I continue to follow.

jdunk54nl

In the auto EQ you can set a curve for your speaker type. Not really a house curve but you could do it that way, which is how I did it when I first learned about the Auto EQ function. It gets you at least closer to a curve but it is hard to get something that matches a traditional house curve unless you really know what you are doing.

If you do know how to use those, you can actually design your own curve via that function....it just has a steep learning curve on top of the steep learning curve of REW and DSP's

It took me a good 6 months to get to "know" how to use REW and my old 360.3 properly without breaking stuff....might have fried a couple tweeters in the first month because I didn't have my crossovers set properly for them and frequency response is not friendly to those with the low frequencies...

Now though I have used it in my cars, my house, and some friends houses/cars along with my calibrated mic from cross spectrum labs. Which, for anyone that reads this and doesn't have a microphone yet, buy one from here
http://www.cross-spectrum.com/
They are individually 3rd party measured and come with a USB drive with different angles and weights. Well worth the small premium.

dhmcfadin

I think we are talking about the same thing just saying it differently. Nick is who taught me how to AutoEq in REW. I do the following:

1. Import house curve
2. Take my measurement
3. Go to EQ, Select "Target" Now I can see my full whiteledge house curve
4. Select target settings.
5. Select speaker type- bass limited, 24db slope, cutoff- 3000hz. Now my whiteledge house curve has been setup for the tweeter.
6. Set my target level for the house curve.
7. Filter tasks. Set acoustical crossover- 2000hz-20k
8. Match response to target.
9. Import data directly into my processor.

He also has a great video that shows this process but like you said, there are situations where auto EQ can get complicated for various reasons and you gotta know how to approach each of those issues lol.

jdunk54nl

Yes, that is bascially what I do. I just use the exported house curves that are a little more custom from jazzi's file. That way I don't just pull one from the interwebs that is a generic curve.

Also with jazzi's you don't need to set up the speaker type, crossovers, cutoff, etc in REW, it is already in the curve file. You will still have to set how much you want to boost/cut and how close of a match you want. But otherwise you just need to load the correct jazzi file (it will output 2 files for a 2 way and 3 files for 3 way so make sure if you are tuning for mid's, you don't have the tweeter file loaded).

dhmcfadin

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the insight!

jdunk54nl

These are also some good reads and ideally you should have some understanding of this before getting too much into sound quality setups (which I would consider when you spent the money on and start tuning with a DSP)

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...lity-imho.html


Here is an interesting one on time alignment via burst or clicks instead of constant noise. I never had a chance to try but always wanted to as I do think it would be easier to center by having silence in between the clicks. I will probably try this once I get my new DSP and see how it sounds compared to other time alignment methods. I know just measuring distances gets you really close, but usually not 100% accurate. You can then clean that up by using your ears and listening to some noise or a song track where the singer is truly centered in the image.
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-clicks-t.html

PLASMAN

MDXLT

I did a delay measurement using the UM-1 today for an initial start to get a proper tune. I had done these measurements originally using the DSP 408 program and my measurements today didn't change that much. I've been trying to follow along on what comes next and I'm finding it a bit difficult to follow because I'm such a newbie to this whole process. I want to add the measurements to the REW program but, I'm not sure where I should put them or if I need to. I watched that video that was provided and if I understand the process correctly, I should use the 408 program in conjunction with the REW. I've set up a file in the 408 for this reason with only the basics to begin with; delays and crossover numbers for my particular speakers. Can these two programs work with each other as in passing files from the 408 to REW? Or, am I supposed to transfer info manually. I would have more questions than this if I had a better understanding of the process.

I like what I have so far with just using the 408 but, setting up frequency matching(?) between the speakers is what I'm interested in after I figure out where to put the other numbers mentioned in REW. It is also my understanding that this process only includes a two channel process with varying speaker options. In my case, I have 3 ways in the front door and a sub behind the rear seat. So, I'm guessing those are the only speakers involved with this process in my case even though I have pillar tweeters and rear speakers as well and did the delay measurements for all. Where am I going wrong with this?

dhmcfadin

There aren't any time delay settings in REW. Nothing to input.

You set up time alignment in the 408 only. Once you start taking measurements, you will then transfer the auto eq parameters to the 408. Some dsp's will let you import a text file of the REW settings but I don't believe the 408 offers that yet.

Are you running 3-way active or passive? If active, you measure one speaker at a time separately. Meaning you mute every speaker except for the speaker you are measuring.

If passive, you will measure the 3 speakers simultaneously. Mute all other sets of of speakers except the group you are measuring. Meaning, left front, then right front, etc. Auto eq on a full component-set simultaneously does not yield good results. Way too many parameters will populate and you only have 10 bands per channel to adjust in the Dayton. With passive, I would recommend AudioFrogs tuning method, not auto eq.

If you are running active and you use auto eq, the three parameters per frequency band that will populate are: Frequency, Q, and gain. Those three parameters can be input in the Dayton software right above where each channel is listed. See pic below.

If you want to do a team viewer session, let me know.