Sound Deadening the Doors
#1
I am Batman
Thread Starter
Sound Deadening the Doors
Hi Guys ...
Just received a shipment ordered 100sq ft of B-quiet Extreme . I will be doing all four doors on my 2010 F150 My questions is this being my first time using any deadening materiel .. What needs to be covered on my doors should I seal up all the factory holes? I know the factory designs these holes for weight savings. But sound wise for my Kappa perfects going into the fronts . Would it not be best to make the doors as air tight as possible. or will this cause other unforeseen problems?
Just received a shipment ordered 100sq ft of B-quiet Extreme . I will be doing all four doors on my 2010 F150 My questions is this being my first time using any deadening materiel .. What needs to be covered on my doors should I seal up all the factory holes? I know the factory designs these holes for weight savings. But sound wise for my Kappa perfects going into the fronts . Would it not be best to make the doors as air tight as possible. or will this cause other unforeseen problems?
#2
Senior almost
You cannot make the doors air tight there are drains in the bottom of the door that need to be able to, well drain... 100 sq feet you could do the inside twice and have some left over..lol Sound deadner is great and use it behind everything including roof.. Just keep drains open... Also mark mounting points so you dont cover them by accident... You need to be able to replace all the panels you take off and trying to get the goo out can be a pain if you cover the wrong holes...
#3
I am Batman
Thread Starter
You cannot make the doors air tight there are drains in the bottom of the door that need to be able to, well drain... 100 sq feet you could do the inside twice and have some left over..lol Sound deadner is great and use it behind everything including roof.. Just keep drains open... Also mark mounting points so you dont cover them by accident... You need to be able to replace all the panels you take off and trying to get the goo out can be a pain if you cover the wrong holes...
Drain holes and mounting points aside, is it worth covering the larger holes in the doors ? Is there any benefit to SQ
Ya 100 sq ft is excessive LOL got it cheap ..
#4
Car Audio Junkie
my suggestion is to do it all, it wont hurt to do more, do the outer and inner skin, i would also do the roof and floor, you have more than enough..the roof not only makes it more quiet but also keeps it much cooler in the vehicle, acts as insulation
#5
I am Batman
Thread Starter
UGH!!! the roof ok if I attempt this is there a how to article on removing the headliner ?
#6
Senior almost
Remove the whole interior first, alll seats door panels rear panels etc.. Remove carpet.. Now with all trim removed the headliner should want to drop out.. Now about the roof if you do that yes it helps. But I dont know if you live in a hot climate, so becareful. Do not do the whole roof if a piece gets hot and seperates from the roof it will put the weight on the top of the headliner then you gotta take it all apart to fix it. When I have done the roof I use a spray on versus the sheets. If you insist on teh sheets use a couple then all around the edges also add duct tape (100 MPH tape) over lapping the sheets to help secure the sheets up. Inside the doors you dont have to cover the whole thing just put enough to cover 30 to 40% that gets rid of the vibration, rememeber this is really a vibration dampner. On the part of the door behind the panels you removed add some there again you dont have to cover everything but any holes you cover you dont need helps. Now having marked the holes in the floor you need to use, go to town cover the rest of it up. Do the cab rear panel, front kick panels. Your done with this part so now run the wires for the stereo system... Also put a small amount on the backside of your license plates keep them from rattling too.....