kmaximus

Hi Everyone,

I'm beginning the path to upgrade the Sony Premium system to something more robust on a relative slim budget. I've read many threads on some great installs and I'm basically looking for confirmation that I'm heading in the right direction.


New Hardware:
Amp - Alpine MRX-V70
LOC - Audio Control LC2i
Front Door Speakers - JBL GTO608C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System
Rear Door Speakers - Infinity 6829CF 2-Way
Subwoofer - Pioneer TS-SW3001S2 (in custom box, I'm making)
Sound Deadening - GTMAT 80mil ULTRA (in Doors, back wall behind rear seats)


Optional hardware if needed:
I'm going to be running everything speaker level and the Alpine and LC2i both have auto sensing for turn on...so at this time, I'm not planning on running remote wiring. But if I run into "popping" issues, these seem to be the required hardware to resolve that issue: (Does this look right, anything missing?)

Add a Circuit -

Turn-on pop delay -
http://davidnavone.com/zencart/index...gnm56vq1419h54

My setup is pretty simple and I've created a comparison diagram of the OEM to Aftermarket conversion to help keep my logic sound along with the wiring diagrams that have been posted here before as guidance.

At this time, I'm not going to introduce a sound processor i.e. LC7i, but will be wiring it so if I want to, it will be an easy addition later.

If what I've read is correct, and this is the part I hope some of you can confirm for me is all I need to do is cut the speakers wires coming out of the Sony (DSP) Amp and splice them to the speaker level wiring of the Alpine MRX-V70, then connect the other side of that cut wire (going to the speakers) to the speaker outs on the Alpine amp?

Concurrently, I am going to use a LC2i to clean up the sub signal and connect it using the existing speaker level wiring from the factory sub, then to the Alpine and out to the new sub

With this setup I should retain all volume control from the head unit correct?

I have already installed the door speakers and for the front I didn't use the oem connection for tweeters. I ran my own wire to the crossover and the new tweeter/mid range woofer/crossover is being supplied by the door oem speaker wire. The sound stage has greatly improved just doing this

thanks in advance for looking!

Windup

You're on the right track, the setup you're doing will keep the factory volume control .

So, you already have your front speakers hooked up only to the front door factory wiring, and you're sure your getting a full range signal to the speakers (tweeter)?
Theirs some debate wether or wether not you need to summon the door and tweeter signal together to get a full range signal.
Did your factory speaker have a capacitor/ inductor on them?

Looking at the owners manual for the amp, on page 16 & 17 "Star" 2. When you hookup the subwoofer signal with RCA you can't use the rear speaker line in input. Just using front signal will have no consequences.
If you want to hold off on buying the LC2i, you could put the sub signal on the rear speaker line in input, have switch #19 set to 1/2 switch #23 set to 1/2/3/4.

I don't think you'll hear much roll off on the subwoofer side to need the Acc-bass feature on the lc2i, especially now that you'll have an amplifier.

kmaximus

Hi Windup, thanks for taking a look and the input!

I like the idea of saving 80 bucks! So, with this then, the rear doors are still amplified just sharing signal via switch 19, I just won't wire them in on the input side. Am I understanding that correctly?

Referencing the sound on the fronts, when I began taking apart the door and a-pillar I did locate the capacitor/ inductor that is connected to the oem tweeter. It was in line between the factory plug and tweeter (See attached picture). I completely removed that wiring setup and didn't reuse anything related to the oem tweeter connection. Using the connection in the door for the crossover to the woofer and tweeter produced a stronger sound in the tweeter and seemed to balance the front stage much better than the factory setup. I can take some video to sample the sound coming from the tweeters/woofer if it can help make better sense?


The Amp will be here next week and I should be able to get a test setup going pretty quickly.

kmaximus

I can now answer your question with a more educated response...after some issues with the amp I purchased, I have come to know that the "front" left and right are not full range and while I have very loud clean sound...the wave form is horrible and is missing many spots on the frequency range....so I will be getting a summing/processing device to get this going. I'm probably going with the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3.


in the meantime, I've reversed the front/rear rca's to the amp so basically the rears are full range to channels 1/2 and fronts are channels 3/4. It's cheating and giving me the illusion that the sound is full. only downside is phone calls/sync/etc. go to the rear speakers, lol.