Grhmw

I am using a Rockford P600x5 amp. I grounded the amp and LCQ1 to one of the seat mounting bolts Like I said I temporarily ran a power cable and ground cable directly to the battery for the LQC1 and I still got noise in the system. What I ended up doing was just using the high speaker inputs on the amp and not using the LCQ1. It sounds good and the wife is happy with it so I'll just leave it. My wife just want to decent sound better than the factory radio and I've accomplish that.

microbe0511

Right on brother. Glad you stayed out of the dog house!

Grhmw

Tell me about it. But the door chimes don't go thru the speakers anymore, it just make the dinging noise from under the dashboard. Before I changed anything the chimes would go thru the speakers. Bluetooth still goes thru the speakers. I don't get it.

Grhmw

I took a drive in the truck today for the first time since redoing the audio. I must be honest, it is not the greatest sounding. I might need to adjust the crossover setting. I think I will have to look at a different EQ for it. So how is that JL fix?

Also I noticed that I have the fake engine noise. I believe the only way to disable it is take it to the dealer and have them do it or use FORSCAN which I have no idea how to use it. It is horrible sounding. It is piping the fake noise to the sub and makes it rumble inside the cab.

What I have also noticed is with the LCQ1 out, I still have the same hissing noise if I turn up the gain on the amp!! The noise must be coming in thru the speaker wire inputs? Wonder if the fake noise piped into it has something to do with the hissing.

microbe0511

A few things...

The LCQ is not really a DSP. Its a pre-amp with an EQ. Its basically taking the ford tuned signal and routing it to your amp with an EQ in between. The amp is just making the crappy signal louder. To get the best sound possible, you can try tuning it with an RTA to level it out. There are some RTAs for the iPhone (Mobile Tools) and Android (Audio Tools). I would recommend getting a calibrated mic (I have the Dayton Audio iMM-6, $24 on Amazon) if you want to try these. Another option, If you search the forums, I think you can flatten the Ford factory signal using the FORSCAN.

Pretty sure a true DSP is the only thing that will clean up the sound. The Fix86 is a great product. It even has 4 separate 10-band EQs for each channel as well as crossover points for each channel. I have not used the EQ yet. It sounds good with a flat signal. I don't use the crossovers on the JL, I use the ones on the Kenwood amp.

What do you have the cross overs set at? Do you have the HP & LP filters turned on? A good starting point is set each one to 80 hz and adjust from there. Just be careful how low you go on the mid/high speakers. Check you specs to see what frequency range they run at. My Alpine SPS-610c & 610 run at 70-2000Hz.. I have my crossovers for the front/rear channels set at 75 Hz and the sub is set at 100hz.

The V6 with the fake engine noise (I will never understand why Ford did that...). I think that can be turned off via FORSCAN. I'm rocking the 5.0 V8 so nothing but sweet rumble for me.

That hissing noise still seems to me like a grounding issue. Any luck contacting Audio Control?

My advice at this point is to return the LCQ and get a Fix86. Should not take much time to install since you already wired up the LCQ. Then find a way to turn off that fake engine noise.

Grhmw

I ordered the module for the Forscan and will have it Sat. Then I will get rid of that fake noise and flatten the factory signal.

I really don't think it is a ground issue. I don't think I could get a better ground than the actual negative terminal, and I grounded both the amp and LCQ to the battery. Yes, I know the LCQ is not really a DSP, I just liked it for having an EQ that could be set to get the sound profile that sounds good.

I have my crossovers set to about 100 for the sub and about 80 for the mids. I have the LCQ boxed up ready to ship back. Ill look into getting the Fix86. BUT if I am able to flatten the signal thru Forscan, will I really need the FIX86? Maybe to use it for the EQ, or use the FIX86 and use it to enhance the signal after Forscan and use the EQ funcion.

This whole thing is driving me nuts. Last time I messed with car audio was about 20yrs ago. Was much simpler then to replace the radio and add amps and speakers. Only issue back then was getting alternator noise when the engine was running.!!

microbe0511

Just from my own experience I would recommend getting the Fix86. It cleans up, flattens and sums all the signals and it has 10-band EQs as well. Only downside (if you want to call it that) is you have to use a PC for all the settings so have a laptop handy.

I feel your pain about doing installs these days. Everything is so integrated into the cars head units and makes upgrades difficult. The last full system I installed was in a Ford Ranger I had in college in the mid-90s.

Grhmw

On the Fix86 I read that you need to use its remote volume control, not the volume on the radio. Is this correct? I myself don't like that idea and would never fly with my wife!!

microbe0511

No its not required. The optional remote **** is really only worth it if you add one of JLs TWK units (which are another 400-480 bucks). Then the **** controls volume, bass, and some EQ presets. For the Fix86, its only good for Vol and Bass control. Not worth it for $70. Save your cash IMHO.

gtrtestdriver

Not technically, but you will get a more linear response from using it. Remember that the factory HU has volume dependent EQ. The Fix will apply a correction curve for whatever preset volume you calibrate it at, but as you start changing the volume the Fix preset for the old volume will no longer be the best preset for the new volume. The Fix remote solves this but like you said, it is a dealbreaker for me.