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Old 08-12-2017, 05:45 PM   #21
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I am going to completely redo my sound system on my 2016 with sync3 and nav, but no sony. It is my wife's truck and she is paranoid about me doing the whole thing. Anyway, my question to for you is do you still have all the door chimes, ect? And do they still chime even when the ignition is OFF? I don't see how they will work when the ignition is off since there will be no power to the DSP and AMP.

I was just going to cut the speaker wires and run them to a LQC-1 then to an 5 channel amp, then back to the original speaker wires (that way I don't have to route new wires thru into the doors. Does the harness fix this issue that I have about the chimes? If I don't have the chimes still my wife will never let me do the upgrade.

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Everything on my set up works like it did out of the factory, chimes and all. If you cut the wires, pretty good chance you will lose what you don't want to lose. The harness is 100% plug and play. I even used the fused power wire to power my DSP (just swapped out the 3A fuse for a 1A that JL recommended.) Read this post for more info on the harness I used.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/altern...arness-388055/.

Trust me, this is worth the 60 bucks. All wires are labeled and it fully integrates the required signals you want for the DSP and speaker hook ups. (although it was not necessary as it was 100% plug and play.).
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Old 08-12-2017, 05:55 PM   #22
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Everything on my set up works like it did out of the factory, chimes and all. If you cut the wires, pretty good chance you will lose what you don't want to lose. The harness is 100% plug and play. I even used the fused power wire to power my DSP (just swapped out the 3A fuse for a 1A that JL recommended.) Read this post for more info on the harness I used.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/altern...arness-388055/.

Trust me, this is worth the 60 bucks. All wires are labeled and it fully integrates the required signals you want for the DSP and speaker hook ups. (although it was not necessary as it was 100% plug and play.).
This is the harness with the unused portion removed and the output signal wires and the input speaker wires separated. The plug on the left goes into the head unit and those wires get hooked up to the DSP and the plug on the right are where you connect your speaker wires from your amp. The plugs only go in one in one way so you can't bugger it up. By the way, I HIGHLY recommend soldering all connections. Don't use taps/crimp connectors.
This will be a bit of a pain in the *** putting it back inside the dash with out the extra wires getting in the way of stuff. I have a 2017 XLT sport with the full console. The sliding door in the storage area that goes up into the dash behind the head unit kept catching the wrapped wires when I put it back together and had to take the headunit out to re-position stuff. Use cloth tesa tape to wrap/protect all your wires and heatshrink tubing to protect all connections.


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Old 08-12-2017, 06:27 PM   #23
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Ok, looks like I will be buying a harness! I just hate to install everything and not have something not work like door chimes/navigation commands and Siri, MY WIFE WOULD KILL ME AND MAKE ME RIP IT ALL OUT IF SOMETHING DIDN'T WORK!!!
I don't mind spending the money to do it right! Does your truck have NAV in it? Did you do anything with the center speaker?

So you just used that yellow wire of the harness for the turn on wire for both your amp and DSP, nothing else for a turn on wire? The LCQ-1 that I have has a remote IN and OUT, so I can use the OUT to the amp.

Last edited by Grhmw; 08-13-2017 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:55 AM   #24
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Ok, looks like I will be buying a harness! I just hate to install everything and not have something not work like door chimes/navigation commands and Siri, MY WIFE WOULD KILL ME AND MAKE ME RIP IT ALL OUT IF SOMETHING DIDN'T WORK!!!
I don't mind spending the money to do it right! Does your truck have NAV in it? Did you do anything with the center speaker?

So you just used that yellow wire of the harness for the turn on wire for both your amp and DSP, nothing else for a turn on wire? The LCQ-1 that I have has a remote IN and OUT, so I can use the OUT to the amp.
Yes my truck has NAV. I did not do anything with the center speaker. I'll leave it for now and maybe replace it with a better aftermarket one. The center speaker is powered off the head unit so it will not be affected by the DSP or amp signal. I was not sure at the time if the chimes and/or NAV used that speaker so I left it. It doesn't.

I only used the yellow wire for powering the DSP not the remote turn on wire. I ran a separate wire to fuse #23 inside the truck at the passenger footwell fuse panel for the remote turn on. I used an "add a circuit" by Bussman. If you use one of these, make sure the 2nd fuse you put in is LESS than the one you are tapping into (i.e. fuse #23 is a 10A so use a 7.5 A in the add-a-circuit). Here is a good video explaining how these work.


The JL Fix86 has a remote out on it so I only needed to run a 12" wire from the remote out on the DSP to the remote turn on for the amp. If you look at the pic with the DSP and Amp all wired up you will see 2 blue wires and one red wire. The red wire is connected the fused yellow wire on the harness, the blue wire by the red is the remote turn on wire tapped into fuse #23. The short blue wire running between the DSP and amp is the remote out turn on wire used to turn the amp on. everything works flawlessly. You would need to see what options you have if you use the LCQ-1.

And I know I am stating the obvious but make sure you disconnect your negative car battery terminal BEFORE you start working on anything!

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Old 08-13-2017, 02:53 PM   #25
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Ok thanks for the info. I ordered the harness. The LQC-1 I have has A remote out on it so I can hook it up the same way you did yours. What type of fuses does it take? I haven't looked.
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Old 08-13-2017, 03:10 PM   #26
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Ok thanks for the info. I ordered the harness. The LQC-1 I have has A remote out on it so I can hook it up the same way you did yours. What type of fuses does it take? I haven't looked.
The fuses in the passenger fuse panel are ATR type. That is also the add-a-circuit type you will need. (BP-HHTR is the part number. I got it at Autozone).

The fused power connection on the harness is a standard ATC style. 1A fuses I found hard to find, but I did get one in a variety pack of ATC fuses.
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:18 PM   #27
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So I was playing around fine tuning the amp & EQ and i could not get the front sound stage to sound just right. I forgot about the factory center dash speaker running off the head unit. I disconnected and now the whole system sounds great. That center factory speaker made the front sound sound flat and overall crappy.

Anyone upgrade the center speak with a better aftermarket? I know it only runs off the head-unit, but does it make a positive difference in the overall sound quality to upgrade? Or should I just leave it out of the configuration?

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Old 08-16-2017, 08:47 PM   #28
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All the post I read about 90% of the people that upgrade the door speakers and amp them go ahead and disconnect the center channel. The ones that add just a hideaway sub or amp with only subs and keep the stock speakers on the head unit usually leave it connected.
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Old 08-16-2017, 10:42 PM   #29
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This is the harness with the unused portion removed and the output signal wires and the input speaker wires separated. The plug on the left goes into the head unit and those wires get hooked up to the DSP and the plug on the right are where you connect your speaker wires from your amp. The plugs only go in one in one way so you can't bugger it up. By the way, I HIGHLY recommend soldering all connections. Don't use taps/crimp connectors.
This will be a bit of a pain in the *** putting it back inside the dash with out the extra wires getting in the way of stuff. I have a 2017 XLT sport with the full console. The sliding door in the storage area that goes up into the dash behind the head unit kept catching the wrapped wires when I put it back together and had to take the headunit out to re-position stuff. Use cloth tesa tape to wrap/protect all your wires and heatshrink tubing to protect all connections.

Besides the speaker wires and they Yellow wire that you used for power for your DSP did you use and other wires? I have read online that people are grounding the ground wire in the harness. I received my harness today. It has 18 wires going to the plug that will get cut. So I take it that 16 are for speakers and the yellow which has 12V constant? and a black ground wire?

Last edited by Grhmw; 08-16-2017 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 08-17-2017, 02:11 AM   #30
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Besides the speaker wires and they Yellow wire that you used for power for your DSP did you use and other wires? I have read online that people are grounding the ground wire in the harness. I received my harness today. It has 18 wires going to the plug that will get cut. So I take it that 16 are for speakers and the yellow which has 12V constant? and a black ground wire?

If you look at the wires on the harness they are all labeld to what they will go to. The pairs of purple, green, white and gray are all tbe speaker wires. The yellow wire with the fuse can be used to power the DSP. The ground wire harness can be grounded to a factory location behind the radio. Now I don't know if the harness ground needs to be used, but I grounded it anyway behind the radio. Once you take out the radio, you will see 2 factory grounding locations. I put it there. That being said, I grounded the DSP and AMP to the same factory grounding point located behind the rear seat directly behind the drivers seat.
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