2018 XLT s-crew 7 Speaker System Upgrades?
#1
2018 XLT s-crew 7 Speaker System Upgrades?
I am new to the F150 world and new to audio as well. I have spent a few hours reading these posts and I believe I have a general understanding on what I will need to upgrade my system. However, everything I have read seems to deal with either the Sony or B&O premium system. I have a 2018 XLT with the standard 7 speaker system, but no sub-woofer or amp in the back. I would like to upgrade all my speakers, add an amp to power my speakers as well as a sub-woofer. Ideally, I would like a plug and play setup where I can plug from my harness into a DSP and amp and then go from my amp and plug back into the stock speaker wiring. All the devices I have looked at such as ZEN A2B or DSR-1 are for systems with amps. Is there a play and play setup for a standard 7 speaker system?
#2
The DSR1 has a plug and play kit for the sony system BUT will work just fine with us peasants, the non amped owners. I recommend the parrot harness with the end cut off and wired in. You can cut the harness and go cheap but i never recommend that. Definitely use forscan to get the flat EQ. If you don't want to wire a separate remote turn on don't do the low level output entry in forscan and just run your speaker outputs to the DSR1 then output that to your flavor of amp.
If you don't want the dsp in line then do the EQ and low level forscan mods. You will have to get a remote turn on from some where and wire RCAs into the output of the radio harness. Then connect to your amps as normal.
FWIW: I'm going with flat EQ and keeping high levels to a DSR1 then to an Alpine KTP-445 and MRX-55
If you don't want the dsp in line then do the EQ and low level forscan mods. You will have to get a remote turn on from some where and wire RCAs into the output of the radio harness. Then connect to your amps as normal.
FWIW: I'm going with flat EQ and keeping high levels to a DSR1 then to an Alpine KTP-445 and MRX-55
#3
The DSR1 has a plug and play kit for the sony system BUT will work just fine with us peasants, the non amped owners. I recommend the parrot harness with the end cut off and wired in. You can cut the harness and go cheap but i never recommend that. Definitely use forscan to get the flat EQ. If you don't want to wire a separate remote turn on don't do the low level output entry in forscan and just run your speaker outputs to the DSR1 then output that to your flavor of amp.
If you don't want the dsp in line then do the EQ and low level forscan mods. You will have to get a remote turn on from some where and wire RCAs into the output of the radio harness. Then connect to your amps as normal.
FWIW: I'm going with flat EQ and keeping high levels to a DSR1 then to an Alpine KTP-445 and MRX-55
If you don't want the dsp in line then do the EQ and low level forscan mods. You will have to get a remote turn on from some where and wire RCAs into the output of the radio harness. Then connect to your amps as normal.
FWIW: I'm going with flat EQ and keeping high levels to a DSR1 then to an Alpine KTP-445 and MRX-55
#4
Ehhhhhhhhh either, its small so it COULD fit but normally it's ran near the amp. I have never seen it in the dash. There is a usb out for updating so if you do i would figure out a way to access it without having to take the dash apart again.
#5
Ok. I think I understand. However, how would I go back from my amp to the stock speaker wiring? That is probably the most important to me is not having to run new speaker wire.
Trending Topics
#8
Yeah that looks kinda crappy. Hell they can't even spell harness right...... All that is is a one of the digital amps (just like my KTP-445) and a harness. Your still going to have to do the same thing. The parrot harness is what is called a T harness. You disconnect your normal harness and connect that one in line with it then there is the T that will go out basically power, ground, and speaker out then on the other side there is speaker "ins" that go out to the speakers. So what you have is power and a speaker loop. You solder in your rca or high level to your amp then out of the amp back into the harness then factory wires. If you want to remove the amp and go stock you disconnect the parrot harness and put the harness from the vehicle back in the stereo and you are good to go
#9
Yeah that looks kinda crappy. Hell they can't even spell harness right...... All that is is a one of the digital amps (just like my KTP-445) and a harness. Your still going to have to do the same thing. The parrot harness is what is called a T harness. You disconnect your normal harness and connect that one in line with it then there is the T that will go out basically power, ground, and speaker out then on the other side there is speaker "ins" that go out to the speakers. So what you have is power and a speaker loop. You solder in your rca or high level to your amp then out of the amp back into the harness then factory wires. If you want to remove the amp and go stock you disconnect the parrot harness and put the harness from the vehicle back in the stereo and you are good to go
#10
Correct unless you are running crazy wattage to each speaker. According to Google fu 18 guage, 120 watts at 4 ohms per speaker. there is almost never a reason to run new wire.
I like the DSR1 as it gives the most tinkering on a graphical level (read computer pointy clicky) for the money. Of course there is better/more money out there but to keep factory head unit and not looking to go crazy it is very good.
I like the DSR1 as it gives the most tinkering on a graphical level (read computer pointy clicky) for the money. Of course there is better/more money out there but to keep factory head unit and not looking to go crazy it is very good.