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Looks awesome man. You didn't have to put nuts on top of the long bolts sticking up through your board?
This is just the test fit to make sure nothing is getting in the way and it mounts correctly with everything installed. It will be fastened down by two nuts with nylon inserts to keep everything nice and snug.
After working on the system upgrade all week I am happy to report the new system is AWESOME! Its so nice to have clean power coming out of the Kenwood. The JL Fix 86 was ridiculously easy to set up once everything was wired up. It took 30 secs to clean up the factory signal that is going into the Kenwood amp. Now I need to play with the tuning features of the JL TuN software. Its pretty cool to have 10-band EQs for each separate channel.
I used Dynamat extreme for the doors so the midbass sounds clean and punchy.
Best part, the whole system is stealthy and everything looks factory stock.
I could not be happier! The Parrot harness FOR-11Mki was a direct plug and play. Simplified the install and no cutting of any factory wires was needed. I'll post some picks of the system tomorrow. I still need to clean up the speaker wires in the back by the amp.
Here is a quick summary of the build. It took a whole lot of time to get it all in but the time was well spent. I forgot to take pics of the Alpine SPS 610 & SPS 610C and Dynamat install.
Products going in. Plug and Play harness. A MUST HAVE! I used the fused power wire to power the Fix86. I changed out the 3A fuse the harness came with to a 1A recommended by JL Audio. Custom speak mounts made for 2015+ F150s made from ABS plastic.. I had to grind down the tweeter mounts as they were a tad wide for the factory A-piller locations. You can buy them here. https://store.audiodesignscg.com/pro...aker-adapters/
I used Dynamat xtream for the doors and mounting locations. The speak mounts came with FAST foam rings.
Amp rack made from 1/2 MDF and sprayed with bedliner material purchased at Home Depot. Came out nice. The picture does not give it justice. Checking wiring configuration of RCAs. I used the existing rear seat bolts to mount. There is enough tread that I used some nylon spacers on the factory bolts under the mounting holes so the wires were not smashed under the amp rack. I used some nylon lock nuts to snug the rack down. Very sturdy. I used a 4G amp wiring kit from Memphis Audio. It came with a 200A fuse which was way to high so I ordered a few 125 A fuses. Since there is limited space to mount the fuse holder, I picked up some scrap 1/4" ABS from a local supply house for a couple of bucks and fabricated a mount that I attached to an existing bolt that had plenty of threads.The 4G power wire runs through the firewall through the grommet on the left. I had to use a coat hanger to fish it through. Use a lube and its easy. I picked up a pre-made sub box. Its sound good, but I'll end up making one that fits better. I still have a little wire clean up to do. I need to shorten up the Stinger 9-wire I used to tap the factory signal. I have about 2 feet to much. I tuned the amp gains with a multimeter. The front and rear channels were set to 15.4 volts and the sub channel was set to 34.6 volts. Calculated by: (RMS Watts per channel)x(speaker impedance ) then take the square root. This is the before and after the JL Fix86 signal correction. The red/green was the Ford factory signal. The orange line is the corrected signal. You can see how well the Fix86 flattened/corrected the signal. I have been playing with the 4 10-band EQs in the Fix 86 to get the sound I want. It would be nice if it allowed you to save EQ profiles and control with their accessory ****. That only comes with their TWK product. I cant see spending $400+ just for that. I turned off the filters on the Fix86 and I am using the ones on the Kenwood.
Last edited by microbe0511; 08-09-2017 at 09:01 PM.
I am going to completely redo my sound system on my 2016 with sync3 and nav, but no sony. It is my wife's truck and she is paranoid about me doing the whole thing. Anyway, my question to for you is do you still have all the door chimes, ect? And do they still chime even when the ignition is OFF? I don't see how they will work when the ignition is off since there will be no power to the DSP and AMP.
I was just going to cut the speaker wires and run them to a LQC-1 then to an 5 channel amp, then back to the original speaker wires (that way I don't have to route new wires thru into the doors. Does the harness fix this issue that I have about the chimes? If I don't have the chimes still my wife will never let me do the upgrade.
08-01-2017, 07:41 AM
