Tweeter wire harness location.
10-13-2017, 11:01 PM
#1
Tweeter wire harness location.
Yeah, yeah. It's obvious that are behind the a pillar cover. Does it start from the head unit and travel along the top of the dash to the tweeters and split before going doing to the doors? That is how it appears from below.
TLDR version: I need to tap a signal input for the front channel of my amp. I don't want to remove the head unit to find it.
Long version: I replaced my front door speakers with Infinity Kappas. Rather than rely on the stock wiring, I tapped into the Crutchfield supplied speark harness adapter and ran a 16 gauge wire through the door and "hose" to serve as my signal wire. I also ran fresh speaker wire back from the amp following the same path.
Doing this removed the signal to my tweeters. They are dead right now and I will install a separate small amp later to restore their functionality.
Anyway, I have some alternator whine from the front speakers only. Despite installing PAC line out converters in the front footwells (tapped into the my DIY signal wire as it exited the door), it's still there.
The only thing left to try is bypassing the amp inputs that I created from the front doors. I need to get "upstream" of the front doors and hope to tap into the tweeters and run a new signal wire to my amp. Remember, installing the Kappas and using the Crutchfield adapter to supply the amp/feed the speaker has killed the tweeters. So any signal returning to the tweeter via the original door speakers is no longer there. I need two unmolested front signals from the head unit at this point.
TLDR version: I need to tap a signal input for the front channel of my amp. I don't want to remove the head unit to find it.
Long version: I replaced my front door speakers with Infinity Kappas. Rather than rely on the stock wiring, I tapped into the Crutchfield supplied speark harness adapter and ran a 16 gauge wire through the door and "hose" to serve as my signal wire. I also ran fresh speaker wire back from the amp following the same path.
Doing this removed the signal to my tweeters. They are dead right now and I will install a separate small amp later to restore their functionality.
Anyway, I have some alternator whine from the front speakers only. Despite installing PAC line out converters in the front footwells (tapped into the my DIY signal wire as it exited the door), it's still there.
The only thing left to try is bypassing the amp inputs that I created from the front doors. I need to get "upstream" of the front doors and hope to tap into the tweeters and run a new signal wire to my amp. Remember, installing the Kappas and using the Crutchfield adapter to supply the amp/feed the speaker has killed the tweeters. So any signal returning to the tweeter via the original door speakers is no longer there. I need two unmolested front signals from the head unit at this point.
10-15-2017, 09:19 PM
#2
Gawwww.
As much as I initially didn't want to, I opened up the front panel and spliced everything at the head unit. It wasn't as difficult or risky as I thought.
I daresay that I might have saved myself quite a bit of time had I went this route first.
I still have a hiss and some alternator whine, though.
As much as I initially didn't want to, I opened up the front panel and spliced everything at the head unit. It wasn't as difficult or risky as I thought.
I daresay that I might have saved myself quite a bit of time had I went this route first.
I still have a hiss and some alternator whine, though.
10-16-2017, 10:15 AM
#3
Are you running the stock Sony system? It's not clear if you are referring to the Sony amp or aftermarket.
If you have an aftermarket amp, the first thing to check for noise is the amp ground. Also for aftermarket amp, did you run the power wire on the same side as your speaker wire? If the PAC converts to low level, you'll definitely want to run the power on one side of the vehicle and signals on the other.
I'm in the process of designing my '17 F150 system with the basic 7 channel system (non-sony). I plan to use Forscan to eliminate the Ford EQ, then run all power down the passenger side with signals running down the driver side. Since I'm going to run fully active, I'll need to run all new speaker wire also. Instead of Stinger 9 wire, I'm going to pillage some twisted/shielded wire from work to use as speaker/signal wire.
If you have an aftermarket amp, the first thing to check for noise is the amp ground. Also for aftermarket amp, did you run the power wire on the same side as your speaker wire? If the PAC converts to low level, you'll definitely want to run the power on one side of the vehicle and signals on the other.
I'm in the process of designing my '17 F150 system with the basic 7 channel system (non-sony). I plan to use Forscan to eliminate the Ford EQ, then run all power down the passenger side with signals running down the driver side. Since I'm going to run fully active, I'll need to run all new speaker wire also. Instead of Stinger 9 wire, I'm going to pillage some twisted/shielded wire from work to use as speaker/signal wire.
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longbedbob (10-16-2017)
10-16-2017, 07:17 PM
#4
Are you running the stock Sony system? It's not clear if you are referring to the Sony amp or aftermarket.
If you have an aftermarket amp, the first thing to check for noise is the amp ground. Also for aftermarket amp, did you run the power wire on the same side as your speaker wire? If the PAC converts to low level, you'll definitely want to run the power on one side of the vehicle and signals on the other.
I'm in the process of designing my '17 F150 system with the basic 7 channel system (non-sony). I plan to use Forscan to eliminate the Ford EQ, then run all power down the passenger side with signals running down the driver side. Since I'm going to run fully active, I'll need to run all new speaker wire also. Instead of Stinger 9 wire, I'm going to pillage some twisted/shielded wire from work to use as speaker/signal wire.
If you have an aftermarket amp, the first thing to check for noise is the amp ground. Also for aftermarket amp, did you run the power wire on the same side as your speaker wire? If the PAC converts to low level, you'll definitely want to run the power on one side of the vehicle and signals on the other.
I'm in the process of designing my '17 F150 system with the basic 7 channel system (non-sony). I plan to use Forscan to eliminate the Ford EQ, then run all power down the passenger side with signals running down the driver side. Since I'm going to run fully active, I'll need to run all new speaker wire also. Instead of Stinger 9 wire, I'm going to pillage some twisted/shielded wire from work to use as speaker/signal wire.
It's a base stereo. 4.3" screen with no factory sub.
I've posted more details here.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/faint-...tumped-397088/
10-18-2017, 03:00 PM
#5
It's a base stereo. 4.3" screen with no factory sub.
I've posted more details here.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/faint-...tumped-397088/
I've posted more details here.
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/faint-...tumped-397088/