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Really new at this - Help please!

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Old 03-30-2014, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MoDy150
Hey Bruce, king nothing is right.

With thr PAC, you plug the factory stereo harness into the pac harness, male to female. The plug the PAC into the stereo. Then plug the rca cables into the PAC and the Clarion Amp, red to red, white to white. The only other part is wiring the power and ground to the amp.

Good luck!
This is for just adding a sub output via RCA. Bruce is looking to get the amp output back into his factory wiring door speakers. The FRD24 can handle this as well but you will need to splice the output wires of your amp in between the PAC module and the plug that connects to your factory wiring.

I suggest reading this thread here https://www.f150forum.com/f30/small-...stalled-96750/

While the poster is using an Alpine, you are doing an identical setup. Also note that his Alpine has high level inputs, like your Clarion. He is not using an FRD24, he is using a cable that is meant for bluetooth add-on (bluetooth is irrelevant in this situation). You could mimic exactly what he did and achieve what you are trying to do. HOWEVER! If you go towards the latest posts in the thread, you will see someone using the FRD24. I would recommend using the FRD24. This way, if you ever wanted to add a sub, you already have the capability whereas the bluetooth cable you would not.
Old 03-30-2014, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by troutspinner

This is for just adding a sub output via RCA. Bruce is looking to get the amp output back into his factory wiring door speakers. The FRD24 can handle this as well but you will need to splice the output wires of your amp in between the PAC module and the plug that connects to your factory wiring.

I suggest reading this thread here https://www.f150forum.com/f30/small-...stalled-96750/

While the poster is using an Alpine, you are doing an identical setup. Also note that his Alpine has high level inputs, like your Clarion. He is not using an FRD24, he is using a cable that is meant for bluetooth add-on (bluetooth is irrelevant in this situation). You could mimic exactly what he did and achieve what you are trying to do. HOWEVER! If you go towards the latest posts in the thread, you will see someone using the FRD24. I would recommend using the FRD24. This way, if you ever wanted to add a sub, you already have the capability whereas the bluetooth cable you would not.


Amazon Amazon

That one is for a 4channel amp. Not just a sub.
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MoDy150
http://www.amazon.com/Add-On-Amplifi...productDetails

That one is for a 4channel amp. Not just a sub.
Correct, most guys here use them for a sub.
Old 03-30-2014, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by troutspinner

This is for just adding a sub output via RCA. Bruce is looking to get the amp output back into his factory wiring door speakers. The FRD24 can handle this as well but you will need to splice the output wires of your amp in between the PAC module and the plug that connects to your factory wiring.
The PAC unit I referenced provides a full range 4 channel signal. It is not just for adding a subwoofer
Old 03-30-2014, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MoDy150

Bruce, Polk DB691s won’t fit your doors. They are 6x9, you'd have to modify the mounting to accommodate those by cutting the door panel.

You need 6x8's (which are direct fit), or 6x7 (need an extra mounting bracket), or 5 1/4"s (need an extra mounting bracket).
With the mounting brackets the 6x7s or 5 1/4"s work just fine.


Info to cover your original post:

With your hearing loss, you need to design your system for clarity. Which is the same with me. I have horrible tinnitus which I earned from designing large audio systems in college and sitting in front of large subwoofers pushing tons of power day in and day out. So, here some generic education, then I’ll describe what I’m doing with my truck.

The stock speakers have paper cones which were designed to just get the noise out of the radio.
The stock stereo, even though it has many good features, only has an output of about 10-15W per channel,
this isn't really enough to push aftermarket speakers. You'll need the amplifier to get enough umph to push aftermarket speakers.
Also, the amplifier has a frequency filter which enables the proper speakers to push the frequencies they were designed to drive.

Coaxial(coax) vs Component speakers(Components):
Coax speakers have the tweeters mounted with the midbass speaker. Some coax speakers have a filter built onto them so the signal is separated between the tweeter and midbass speaker. For example: the Infinity Reference 6832CF have a capacitor on the back, they are 6x8, and mount directly into the doors. They have a RMS handling of 60W. RMS is root mean square, which is the normal operating power of the speaker.

Since your stock head unit only puts out 10-15W, the head unit doesn't have the power to drive the new speakers.
You will notice it a little bit of difference which is purely due to the better quality of the speakers, but they won’t wow you.

Component speakers are the same as coax, but the tweeter is separated from the midbass and have to be mounted separately.
In our front doors there is already a spot for the tweeter, but it takes a bit more effort to get them wired.
Components also some with a little box called a Crossover. That is a frequency separator so only specific range of frequencies are sent to each, the tweeter or the midbass.


2-way,3-way, etc…: This just refers to the division of the input frequency had how many speakers are used to output those separations. 2way are Coax or Component speakers. The signal is divided by two, and output to a tweeter and midbass speaker. 3way, or triaxial, divide the signal by 3 and use a tweeter, midbass, and subwoofer. Usually the triaxial setups are more expensive and few vehicles are designed with these setups in mind for future expansion.

Since you don’t want booming bass, you can easily get great clarity and the needed volume so it feels like you are sitting in a concert hall, from a coax setup.
The bass that annoys you is 50Hz and below. That’s the rattle range.
So you only need speakers that have frequency handling above that. Even 80Hz and up would be adequate.

...continued in next post...

Excellent info!
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by king nothing
The PAC unit I referenced provides a full range 4 channel signal. It is not just for adding a subwoofer
Correct, most guys here use them for a sub.
Old 04-02-2014, 07:23 PM
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Ok, so I went ahead and bit the bullet today!
I went ahead and got a kenwood DDX470 head unit.
Has Bluetooth, Sirius DVD, cd.
I am going to get a back up camera for it and now I need to get the wiring harness to go with my clarion amp. The listing of harnesses is all over the map!
Are there specific ones for certain brand head units?
I just keep,spending money, but hopefully I get it right!
Old 04-02-2014, 08:36 PM
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Well that was a switch! If you goto Crutchfield and put in your vehicle type they will tell you what you will need. Just add the radio to the cart and the recommended interfaces will be shown at checkout. Pretty much depends on if you have Sync, Steering Wheel Controls and if you want to maintain all of it.

As for backup camera, I have this one and like it a lot and it looks OEM...because it is. https://camera-source.com/products/f...arket-displays

If you do a search on this forum, you will see a thread by the vendor and a code to use to save a few bucks.

BTW, I like your Avatar. You in Pa or Jersey?
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:39 PM
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Trout spinner, live and breathe orange & black.
I was a little Flyer back when Freddy the Fog was coach.
I was checked into the boards by Holmgren on his rookie season when I went to Sheros camp. The old Coliseum was great!
Live in S jersey.
$300 for a camera is a bit much.
Crutchfield doesn't carry this radio any longer and they offer not much because I don't have Sync.
Think I found it, I need metra 70 5521. Just trying to make sure.

Yeah big change huh.
Now looking for back up cam, dash kit, micro bypass switch so the old lady can watch DVD when we travel, I phone wire and install kit for,the radio! WHEW
Old 04-02-2014, 09:58 PM
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Nice on the Orange and Black. Pa here, use to play, not at any serious level but kept me busy for years a few nights a week. I miss it at times but young 40's now and the legs ain't what they use to be.

Anyways, do you have steering wheel controls? Also, you do not need a switch for a bypass. Just ground the parking brake wire and you're good to go.



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