Quick question: 2018 non b&o. Are the front door and tweeters on seperate channels ?
06-06-2018, 11:19 AM
#11
I really only want the front speakers anyways. I never have passengers in the rear except my dog and I doubt he wants to listen to slayer . Is there a wire diagram for my factory harness ?
06-06-2018, 11:47 AM
#12
Senior Member
Check my build thread in my sig. In the end, the B&O amp is a tough one to work around due to how it handles timing, eq, as well as mic and voice functions. You can tap the speaker outputs in the back where the amp is and use a good DSP combo (I use the Audison 8.9) to sum and flatten signals, but that only works so well.
For the tweeters, if you are replacing them (and you should, the stock tweeters aren't that great) you'll need to run new wires for them back to either your amp or a passive crossover box depending on if your amp does active crossover or not. The stock tweeter wiring terminates in the ACM, up by the HU. I don't know why.
You can grab the frequencies for the tweeters off the door wiring, so you'll still be able to sum everything up if you go that way.
Probably the best way to deal with the B&O, and what I'm about to do, is replace the B&O amp entirely. To do that you need the Zen-a2b, which can take the digital a2b connection that goes to the B&O amp and connect to it directly and then pass a full, clean, flat signal to your outboard amp(s) It even provides a digital Toslink connection in addition to analog for amps that support it. It also taps in to the CAN bus to handle handoffs from voice control, speakerphone, etc. It is an OEM replacement solution in other words. Early reports indicate it works great and is easy to install; the biggest downside is it expensive ($850 USD list price).
However, if you want something that smoothly integrates with the OEM Sync 3 features and yet provides a clean signal for your external amp/DSP to manage it's the only game in town. As stated above my experience even with a good DSP and tapping the high-level speaker outputs is that the B&O still interferes. I've also had problems with door chimes, etc. not playing at normal volumes, and I believe echo cancelling has been disabled on my mic. The zen-a2b corrects this.
For the tweeters, if you are replacing them (and you should, the stock tweeters aren't that great) you'll need to run new wires for them back to either your amp or a passive crossover box depending on if your amp does active crossover or not. The stock tweeter wiring terminates in the ACM, up by the HU. I don't know why.
You can grab the frequencies for the tweeters off the door wiring, so you'll still be able to sum everything up if you go that way.
Probably the best way to deal with the B&O, and what I'm about to do, is replace the B&O amp entirely. To do that you need the Zen-a2b, which can take the digital a2b connection that goes to the B&O amp and connect to it directly and then pass a full, clean, flat signal to your outboard amp(s) It even provides a digital Toslink connection in addition to analog for amps that support it. It also taps in to the CAN bus to handle handoffs from voice control, speakerphone, etc. It is an OEM replacement solution in other words. Early reports indicate it works great and is easy to install; the biggest downside is it expensive ($850 USD list price).
However, if you want something that smoothly integrates with the OEM Sync 3 features and yet provides a clean signal for your external amp/DSP to manage it's the only game in town. As stated above my experience even with a good DSP and tapping the high-level speaker outputs is that the B&O still interferes. I've also had problems with door chimes, etc. not playing at normal volumes, and I believe echo cancelling has been disabled on my mic. The zen-a2b corrects this.
06-06-2018, 01:53 PM
#13
Check my build thread in my sig. In the end, the B&O amp is a tough one to work around due to how it handles timing, eq, as well as mic and voice functions. You can tap the speaker outputs in the back where the amp is and use a good DSP combo (I use the Audison 8.9) to sum and flatten signals, but that only works so well.
For the tweeters, if you are replacing them (and you should, the stock tweeters aren't that great) you'll need to run new wires for them back to either your amp or a passive crossover box depending on if your amp does active crossover or not. The stock tweeter wiring terminates in the ACM, up by the HU. I don't know why.
You can grab the frequencies for the tweeters off the door wiring, so you'll still be able to sum everything up if you go that way.
Probably the best way to deal with the B&O, and what I'm about to do, is replace the B&O amp entirely. To do that you need the Zen-a2b, which can take the digital a2b connection that goes to the B&O amp and connect to it directly and then pass a full, clean, flat signal to your outboard amp(s) It even provides a digital Toslink connection in addition to analog for amps that support it. It also taps in to the CAN bus to handle handoffs from voice control, speakerphone, etc. It is an OEM replacement solution in other words. Early reports indicate it works great and is easy to install; the biggest downside is it expensive ($850 USD list price).
However, if you want something that smoothly integrates with the OEM Sync 3 features and yet provides a clean signal for your external amp/DSP to manage it's the only game in town. As stated above my experience even with a good DSP and tapping the high-level speaker outputs is that the B&O still interferes. I've also had problems with door chimes, etc. not playing at normal volumes, and I believe echo cancelling has been disabled on my mic. The zen-a2b corrects this.
For the tweeters, if you are replacing them (and you should, the stock tweeters aren't that great) you'll need to run new wires for them back to either your amp or a passive crossover box depending on if your amp does active crossover or not. The stock tweeter wiring terminates in the ACM, up by the HU. I don't know why.
You can grab the frequencies for the tweeters off the door wiring, so you'll still be able to sum everything up if you go that way.
Probably the best way to deal with the B&O, and what I'm about to do, is replace the B&O amp entirely. To do that you need the Zen-a2b, which can take the digital a2b connection that goes to the B&O amp and connect to it directly and then pass a full, clean, flat signal to your outboard amp(s) It even provides a digital Toslink connection in addition to analog for amps that support it. It also taps in to the CAN bus to handle handoffs from voice control, speakerphone, etc. It is an OEM replacement solution in other words. Early reports indicate it works great and is easy to install; the biggest downside is it expensive ($850 USD list price).
However, if you want something that smoothly integrates with the OEM Sync 3 features and yet provides a clean signal for your external amp/DSP to manage it's the only game in town. As stated above my experience even with a good DSP and tapping the high-level speaker outputs is that the B&O still interferes. I've also had problems with door chimes, etc. not playing at normal volumes, and I believe echo cancelling has been disabled on my mic. The zen-a2b corrects this.
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Tannhauser621 (10-11-2019)
06-11-2018, 12:46 PM
#14
The tweeters and doors are on the same channel. They are setup like a normal component set would be .The tweeters have a cap on them for the crossover.
I just finished doing this to my truck, it's an 18 STX with the 8" and a 6 speaker system but the wiring at the HU is the same. What I did was a 6.5" component set and used the component set crossover in the doors for the woofers and then added a tweeter crossover at the a-piller for the new tweeter. Ran everyhever from the factory wiring that was in place and used a soundstream stealth amp in the dash with the parrot harness .
I just finished doing this to my truck, it's an 18 STX with the 8" and a 6 speaker system but the wiring at the HU is the same. What I did was a 6.5" component set and used the component set crossover in the doors for the woofers and then added a tweeter crossover at the a-piller for the new tweeter. Ran everyhever from the factory wiring that was in place and used a soundstream stealth amp in the dash with the parrot harness .
06-11-2018, 02:33 PM
#15
prcdslnc13, you're saying that you used speaker level inputs on the amp and it worked fine? I'm having to take a guess and say you do not have the B&O system? If this is the case then you should know that guys with the B&O system are having issues that can't be fixed doing it the normal way such as you did.
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06-12-2018, 12:23 AM
#16
The tweeters and doors are on the same channel. They are setup like a normal component set would be .The tweeters have a cap on them for the crossover.
I just finished doing this to my truck, it's an 18 STX with the 8" and a 6 speaker system but the wiring at the HU is the same. What I did was a 6.5" component set and used the component set crossover in the doors for the woofers and then added a tweeter crossover at the a-piller for the new tweeter. Ran everyhever from the factory wiring that was in place and used a soundstream stealth amp in the dash with the parrot harness .
I just finished doing this to my truck, it's an 18 STX with the 8" and a 6 speaker system but the wiring at the HU is the same. What I did was a 6.5" component set and used the component set crossover in the doors for the woofers and then added a tweeter crossover at the a-piller for the new tweeter. Ran everyhever from the factory wiring that was in place and used a soundstream stealth amp in the dash with the parrot harness .
Thanks a bunch for this. I keep trying to pull the dash apart to confirm but my honey-do list grows daily lately.
06-12-2018, 12:25 AM
#17
prcdslnc13, you're saying that you used speaker level inputs on the amp and it worked fine? I'm having to take a guess and say you do not have the B&O system? If this is the case then you should know that guys with the B&O system are having issues that can't be fixed doing it the normal way such as you did.
I would imagine the B&O wouldn't work like that.
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TOLLAV (09-06-2018)
06-13-2018, 05:28 PM
#18
Yes. Please stop mentioning the b&o system . I'll repeat: This thread was for advise on. 7 speaker, no subwoofer, 8" display system without the b&o option. Just to avoid confusion.
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Tannhauser621 (10-11-2019),
TOLLAV (09-06-2018)
06-14-2018, 01:22 PM
#19
If you wire the door speakers from behind the head unit you can split a wire for the tweeters and run them up fairly easily. There isn't really that much work to get this accomplished.
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Brands we sell include: Kicker, NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
06-14-2018, 05:27 PM
#20
I had the same questions as you. I was told the wires split at the head unit. Bought JBL club speakers and tweeters. I did not use the crossover from the box. I wired the JBL tweeters into the existing brackets and reused the capacitor. I think they sound good. Wondering if I used the crossover and split the wires if they'd sound better...
Regardless, definite improvement over factory.
Regardless, definite improvement over factory.