Quick question: 2018 non b&o. Are the front door and tweeters on seperate channels ?
06-16-2018, 04:25 PM
#31
Originally Posted by planetix
If you're replacing speakers, you'll have the inner door and pillar cover for the tweeters off anyway. You won't have to remove the HU unless you are replacing Sync 3 which is a different beast entirely. Given that, I don't see how it's easier - you'll already have all the access you need and it's fairly simple to fish a cable through the grommet, I've done it. Vs. taking the HU out for no reason other than to get to the OEM wires.
I've done this before. My current truck I ran new tweeter cabling all the way back because my amp supports active crossovers. At no point have I had to remove the HU or anything else under the dash for that matter for access to anything. Again, you'll have all the stuff you need removed out to swap the speakers in the first place so.....
I've done this before. My current truck I ran new tweeter cabling all the way back because my amp supports active crossovers. At no point have I had to remove the HU or anything else under the dash for that matter for access to anything. Again, you'll have all the stuff you need removed out to swap the speakers in the first place so.....
The following users liked this post:
Wyo11Scab (06-17-2018)
06-16-2018, 05:34 PM
#32
Senior Member
I must be remembering my older truck then - with my 2018 I bypassed the doors and passive crossovers completely and just ran tweeter wire straight back to the amp. And my door speakers I didn't bother to rewire, just used an adapter for the new ones. Sorry for the confusion.
06-18-2018, 11:52 AM
#33
I'd avoid running wires through the doors entirely. Get the wires from behind the head unit and split them for the tweeters using the crossovers. Running the tweeter wires from the head unit is stupid easy compared to trying to fish wires through the door molex plug.
06-18-2018, 11:59 AM
#34
Did you just mount the crossovers behind the stereo?
06-18-2018, 12:05 PM
#35
I used 2 seperate crossovers. The ones that came with the component set are in my doors and power the woofers. Then I had some tweeter cross overs from an old project so I used those and mounted them in the dash right next to the A pillars. Both the door and tweeter input wires are Full Range so this worked well.
06-20-2018, 01:12 PM
#36
Senior Member
Are you bi-amping your fronts or amping fronts & rears with a separate crossover for the tweeters? I've got the same amp waiting to go in and can't decide the best route. I'm leaning towards bi-amping the fronts using the amp's built-in crossover and leaving the rears powered by the head unit. I'm just not sure how leaving the rears off the amp will affect the auto DSP/EQ function, which was a major selling point for me.
06-20-2018, 02:25 PM
#37
Are you bi-amping your fronts or amping fronts & rears with a separate crossover for the tweeters? I've got the same amp waiting to go in and can't decide the best route. I'm leaning towards bi-amping the fronts using the amp's built-in crossover and leaving the rears powered by the head unit. I'm just not sure how leaving the rears off the amp will affect the auto DSP/EQ function, which was a major selling point for me.
I used forscan to set flat EQ, variable line voltage, and disabled speaker detection. Everything works perfect except the door chimes and backup sensor alarm are quieter . Likely because I have the gains turned down.
The following users liked this post:
tenx82 (06-20-2018)
06-20-2018, 02:28 PM
#38
One issue... The key180.4 is small enough to fit behind the headunit, but if you use a harness adapter for it , things are pretty tight. I'll be pulling mine out from behind the dash and building an amp rack for it behind the rear seats. I need to make one for the subwoofer amp anyways .
The following users liked this post:
tenx82 (06-20-2018)
06-20-2018, 07:35 PM
#39
Senior Member
Thanks for all the info. Did you install aftermarket speakers as well, or just the amp? I'm really struggling with deciding which speakers to get. I'm planning to see if there's anywhere below the dash, in the upper footwell area, that I could make a mount to have easy access without running extra wire.
06-21-2018, 07:41 AM
#40
I used 2 seperate crossovers. The ones that came with the component set are in my doors and power the woofers. Then I had some tweeter cross overs from an old project so I used those and mounted them in the dash right next to the A pillars. Both the door and tweeter input wires are Full Range so this worked well.