HushCarAudio

I have no clue why people reuse the OEM caps instead of using the aftermarket manufacturer's specifically made crossovers for their own products. It could be the exact same results but I wouldn't think so.

Hunter1979

One day, if I get extra time, I might take apart the passenger side and wire in the new crossovers...just with the wires on the outside...not actually running/splitting the wires, just to see if it makes a difference sound wise.

TheRealJCole

Update:

Finally had time to pull the dash apart. The speaker wire harness uses 10 wires. The front doors and tweeters use the same output from the headunit .

So that's 8 for the 4 conventional channels, and then 2 for the center dash speaker. Thanks for the help!

Now I'm off to Crappy Tire to get a new soldering iron since my good one fell apart after leaving it on for a few days.

Hunter1979

So I guess I should be using the crossover that came with the speakers. Wondering what's the best way to run those wires?

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Run the wires going to the factory door speakers into the crossover with crossover outputs going to the door speakers and tweeters. Should be room to mount the crossovers in the door.

Hunter1979

How do you run the wire to the tweeters? Can I run it through the accordion thing in the door, then up the pillar?

planetix

Yes. A wire coat hanger with the long piece clipped will work as a fish - put a little electrical tape on the end so you don't accidentally tear something if you poke too hard.

Or regular fish tape for walls, etc. works just as well if you have that already.

HushCarAudio

I'd avoid running wires through the doors entirely. Get the wires from behind the head unit and split them for the tweeters using the crossovers. Running the tweeter wires from the head unit is stupid easy compared to trying to fish wires through the door molex plug.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Good idea

planetix

If you're replacing speakers, you'll have the inner door and pillar cover for the tweeters off anyway. You won't have to remove the HU unless you are replacing Sync 3 which is a different beast entirely. Given that, I don't see how it's easier - you'll already have all the access you need and it's fairly simple to fish a cable through the grommet, I've done it. Vs. taking the HU out for no reason other than to get to the OEM wires.

I've done this before. My current truck I ran new tweeter cabling all the way back because my amp supports active crossovers. At no point have I had to remove the HU or anything else under the dash for that matter for access to anything. Again, you'll have all the stuff you need removed out to swap the speakers in the first place so.....