IggyBcool

Hey guys, new to the forum. I recently just picked up a new to me 2010 Supercrew XLT 4x4. The truck has I'm assuming the base stereo with Sync. Bottom line is, something is going on with the stereo and it sounds AWFUL.

What I'm looking for is:

-Replace factory door speakers (passenger rear has no sound coming from it at all)
-Add an amp to help things out.


Future:
-Replace oem head unit with something aftermarket NAV.
-Add an 8" sub under the rear bench.


I've tried searching but most of my returns are threads from 2010-2011 and I'm sure that technology has become better. I'm not looking to go all out and spend an insane amount of money, so I'm looking for the best bang for my buck when it comes to the door speakers and the amp. I'm fairly mechanically inclined - just never dealt with audio before. Can you guys help pick me out a pair of speakers and amp, as well as everything else needed to install?

Thanks!

f150doitpruitt

Best place I've found is crutchfield. You can enter your vehicle and it'll show you all the equipment that'll fit perfectly in your vehicle. Go check it out!

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dMmJhrR...tallation.html

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Budget?

Heavy_Metal

The technology hasnt changed much since 2010-11. Plus reading those will give you a headstart on terminology and such.

Those threads might also help you decide on which route you wanna go. Theres likely gonna be trucks like yours with installs and pics.

boom50cal

Would look into a nice set of coaxials in your situation. 6x8's in all 4 doors. Could get adapters to fit a 6.5 coaxial or 5.25, but 6x8 is easiest and most likely the cheapest. Something like the Alpine Type S(or R), Pioneer TS, Kicker CS, Rockford Punch P1. Most of those are $60-125 a pair, and you would need 2 pair.

Most definitely would need an amp for them, most of those are around 75w RMS. I run a Rockford Fosgate R300X4, which is rated at 50w x 4 channels at 4 ohms. Birth sheet claims 68w a channel, at 4 ohms. It's $120 shipped on Amazon. I've been running mine for 6 months or more now, under my backseat in my 06 SuperCrew without a single issue.

Lets just set it up matching and all from Amazon since Prime has free 2 day shipping on most of this, so a Rockford R300x4 would run you $120. Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 Coaxials, which are 6x8 3 way speakers, are $50 a pair. so we are up to $220 in a 4 channel and door speakers. Nice deal there.

Here's where things can start to get expensive, since these newer trucks have that big all in one dash panel... you'll have to order a dash kit. Luckily, the one you need is only $20 shipped, a Best Kits BKFMK526. But you will also need a wiring harness adapter, but I'm not exactly sure which one you will need. Depends if you have steering wheel controls and whatnot, and if you want to retain those. Double Dins are quite expensive, atleast good ones. Most definitely want to stay away from BOSS Audio, Soundstream, Planet Audio, Jensen, Power Acoustik... Look at brands like Pioneer, JVC, Kenwood, Sony, Clarion.

There's a couple different ways you can go about installing all of this. You can buy the coaxials now, and go ahead and put them in the doors, leaving them on the stock head unit. Or you could buy the 4 channel, and get some 9 conductor wire from SkyHigh Car audio to split the factory harness to give you low level line inputs, then use more of the 9 conductor to come back to the other side of the factory harness from the amp to the door speakers. Will be easier than fishing wire through all the doors. SkyHigh Car Audio offers this 9 conductor 18awg OFC wire, http://skyhighcaraudio.com/ofc-9-core-wire/.


I wouldn't do the low level inputs though. I would buy the coaxials, and a head unit together. That'll run you easily close to $800 if you go with a double din with navigation, a dash kit, and wiring harness. Then later down the road, buy the 4 channel, a monoblock, and a small sub. Buy some 1/0 wire, bring back plenty of power into the cab and hit a distribution block. Power for your 4 channel, and for your monoblock off a single cable. You would need a 4 channel RCA, and a 2 channel RCA at that point. I would still run some of that 9 wire cable from SkyHigh, it would be a lot easier than running a remote turn on wire from the head unit, and then 4 different sets of 2 conductor speaker wire into all the doors.

Links to products I mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosg...rockford+p1683

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Kits-BKF...words=BKFMK526

http://skyhighcaraudio.com/ofc-9-core-wire/

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Great info^^^^

boom50cal

Thanks man. I try to be as useful as possible. I'm used to going big and above and beyond on builds, so when I do something small like this I try and be as thorough as possible. There's more detail I could add in, but not really needed if the installer is atleast a little bit mechanically inclined.

One thing I do recommend, is spending $150-200 on some quality sound deadener and foam products. Will help out midbass reproduction a TON and tighten up the middle and upper frequencies from the midrange side of the coaxials.

IggyBcool

Thanks all for the help and information, I really do appreciate it. I couldn't have came across a better deal at a better time. A friend of mine ordered a set of speakers and amp for his truck and a truck pulled out in front of him and he totaled it and sold me his set up for pennies on the dollar. Ended up with some Polk db571's and a 750watt 4chan amp. It sounds fifty fold better than stock even though my passenger side rear speaker isn't working. Trying to figure out the issue.