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Correct it's plug and play! The t-harness connects to the 3 factory connections that the Sony used. No tapping or splicing and no Forscan changes needed as it is direct replacement. It would literally take 5 minutes to put back to Sony stock if you ever needed too. That's including putting the bolts and screws back in
Only soldering I did was the DSR1 wires to the t-harness wires for piece of mind. Nothing to do with the factory connections/wires.
I was equally pumped about this when I found it!
I didn't get a chance to take any pictures tonight. I'll try to tomorrow.
Last edited by bwmiller1974; 10-10-2017 at 11:37 PM.
Correct it's plug and play! The t-harness connects to the 3 factory connections that the Sony used. No tapping or splicing and no Forscan changes needed as it is direct replacement. It would literally take 5 minutes to put back to Sony stock if you ever needed too. That's including putting the bolts and screws back in
Only soldering I did was the DSR1 wires to the t-harness wires for piece of mind. Nothing to do with the factory connections/wires.
I was equally pumped about this when I found it!
I didn't get a chance to take any pictures tonight. I'll try to tomorrow.
This is awesome! It just saved me $410.00 on my system.
Did you have to run new speaker wire to your front and rear speakers or does the harness connect back to the upgraded speakers using the factory speaker wire? Look forward to your reply and pics.
Originally Posted by bwmiller1974
Correct it's plug and play! The t-harness connects to the 3 factory connections that the Sony used. No tapping or splicing and no Forscan changes needed as it is direct replacement. It would literally take 5 minutes to put back to Sony stock if you ever needed too. That's including putting the bolts and screws back in
Only soldering I did was the DSR1 wires to the t-harness wires for piece of mind. Nothing to do with the factory connections/wires.
I was equally pumped about this when I found it!
I didn't get a chance to take any pictures tonight. I'll try to tomorrow.
.
I mounted the crossovers in the doors. So, the only speaker wires I ran were in the front doors to the JL C5-650 speakers and the a-pillars for replacing the tweeters. This was only necessary because I installed those component speakers for the front stage. I used the above mentioned adapters to the crossover (in order to avoid cutting factory wiring) and new wires to the speakers. Honestly the hardest part of this project aside from the sub enclosure I built was figuring out how to run those dang tweeter wires. If you aren't installing components with crossovers you won't have to worry about that.
As for getting wires to the a-pillar... I fished wire through the door boot to the molex connections. Some people say they've drilled a hole in an empty spot of the molex to pass the wires through. I couldn't see an open spot and didn't want to hit anything important. So I used a dremel and grinding bit to shave a channel on the out side of the molex just deep enough to allow the wire to sit. The molex clips in tight behind that rubber boot, so I had to dremel a small area of the hole there so the wires would fit. Thank god the truck is aluminum so this was easy. But I did have to buy a 90° dremel adapter to get into the tight spot. After I got everything put back I used some RTV silicon. With the rubber boot back on you can't even tell. Like I said this was one of the hardest parts of my install and it took me about 6-7 hours to figure out and do the first door. The next door only took me about an hour...
These pics will give you an idea of what all I have going on there. I just buttoned everything up last weekend and don't really want to tear it apart, but I can possibly do that and get better pictures this weekend if someone wants...
Thanks for the additional information, seems like the best way to go. So from your amp speaker output you just cut the Sony amp output plug off and used the factory wiring to connect to the crossovers? I am just trying to figure out if there is a way to keep the Sony factory output connections in place in case I sell the truck and need to add the Sony amp back in.
Originally Posted by bwmiller1974
I didn't need to run any additional speaker wires to use the DSR1. I used the factory wiring and purchased Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wire Adapters for Ford.
I mounted the crossovers in the doors. So, the only speaker wires I ran were in the front doors to the JL C5-650 speakers and the a-pillars for replacing the tweeters. This was only necessary because I installed those component speakers for the front stage. I used the above mentioned adapters to the crossover (in order to avoid cutting factory wiring) and new wires to the speakers. Honestly the hardest part of this project aside from the sub enclosure I built was figuring out how to run those dang tweeter wires. If you aren't installing components with crossovers you won't have to worry about that.
As for getting wires to the a-pillar... I fished wire through the door boot to the molex connections. Some people say they've drilled a hole in an empty spot of the molex to pass the wires through. I couldn't see an open spot and didn't want to hit anything important. So I used a dremel and grinding bit to shave a channel on the out side of the molex just deep enough to allow the wire to sit. The molex clips in tight behind that rubber boot, so I had to dremel a small area of the hole there so the wires would fit. Thank god the truck is aluminum so this was easy. But I did have to buy a 90° dremel adapter to get into the tight spot. After I got everything put back I used some RTV silicon. With the rubber boot back on you can't even tell. Like I said this was one of the hardest parts of my install and it took me about 6-7 hours to figure out and do the first door. The next door only took me about an hour...
Thanks for the additional information, seems like the best way to go. So from your amp speaker output you just cut the Sony amp output plug off and used the factory wiring to connect to the crossovers? I am just trying to figure out if there is a way to keep the Sony factory output connections in place in case I sell the truck and need to add the Sony amp back in.
You don’t cut anything off. The output of the Sony amp already has wires for right and left tweeter and right and left mid, right and left rear, center, and sub. If you are using aftermarket component speakers, they will come with two crossovers. The crossovers have in input of two wires directly from the left and two wires directly from the right channels on your amp and two outputs per crossover which then split to the left and right tweeter and mid. If you are keeping the factory speakers, you will need to purchase two crossovers. Everything is plug and play. If you want to go back to stock you can.
Thanks for the additional information, seems like the best way to go. So from your amp speaker output you just cut the Sony amp output plug off and used the factory wiring to connect to the crossovers? I am just trying to figure out if there is a way to keep the Sony factory output connections in place in case I sell the truck and need to add the Sony amp back in.
I didn't cut any factory wires anywhere. The iDatalink t-harness (connects to OEM wiring) and plugs into the DSR1. It even has the amp remote wire to turn on your amp with the truck. The t-harness simply connects two of the 3 connections (from truck) that went to the Sony Amp to DSR1. Then the 3rd plug wires to your aftermarket amp to take the speaker outputs back to the vehicle.
I didn't cut any factory wires anywhere. The iDatalink t-harness (connects to OEM wiring) and plugs into the DSR1. It even has the amp remote wire to turn on your amp with the truck. The t-harness simply connects two of the 3 connections (from truck) that went to the Sony Amp to DSR1. Then the 3rd plug wires to your aftermarket amp to take the speaker outputs back to the vehicle.
10-10-2017, 11:34 PM
