skinneydipme

Forget to mention that I pulled the vapor barrier off and put aluminum there so the dynamat would be more solid. I stuck the aluminum on with urathane from apple auto glass . After the dynamat I cut plastic house vapor barrier to cover all the dynamat and used butal to stick it. Worked great



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Well I'm finally done. This is my build!!
JL Audio's XD400/4v2 4 channel amp putting out 75 watt per channel at 4 ohm (capable of 100 watt per channel at 2 ohm.
JL Audio's XD600/1v2 mono amp putting out 600 rms at 2 ohm
mounted to this [F150SCR15-UTSMOUNT] from sub thump. I also bought this [F150SCR15-SDF] single downfiring
enclosure from subthump and installed this Kicker CompRT 43CWRT121 shallow mount dual 1 ohm vc 500 watt rms sub. I wired both vc in series to make 2 ohm resistance.
I installed dynamat on the inside and outside of my doors.
I modified all of the door speaker mounts and installed these Kicker 44KSC6904 in the front and these Kicker 44KSC6504 in the back. I ordered 100 ft of 4 wire speaker cable to run from amps to sync 3 audio modual. It took 4 runs of cable . 100 ft was plenty. I used posi taps for the connections in the dash. I solder the connections at the amps. ordered one Stinger SPD511 Pro Series Power/Ground Distribution T-Block with Three 4 Gauge Inputs from Amazon which I used for grounding. I also ordered a
KnuKonceptz Bassik 2 Way Mini ANL Fuse Distribution Block - 1/0 Gauge to 4 Gauge for my power because I only used 1,4 gauge power cable. This block allowed me to fuse my mono amp with 50 amp anl mini and my 4 channel amp with 40 amp anl mini giving it a clean look. I took my truck to my local audio shop and got them to flatten the speaker output and eq and tune everything. That's pretty much it. The sound is absolutely incredible. Wasn't cheap but I love it!! Took months of researching and a lot of time to build it but it was all worth it in the end. Incredible sound!!!