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I didn't mean those foam baffles that go behind the speaker, I meant a wooden baffle to strengthen the door. If the metal of the door is flexing, you are losing bass.
Like this, but for your 6x9. This one is made out of HDPE, much better than MDF as water will not harm it. He can make a simpler one out of MDF and spray paint it or cover it in bedliner from a can to waterseal it.
thanks guys. I’ll take a look at those second skin products. Hit looks like essentially of allowing the rear firing sound waves to bounce straight back at the speaker it kinda breaks them up and doesn’t let them fire straight back by bouncing off the flat door?
i have seen those kind of baffles before just had no idea they were called that lol. I feel like I have read into so much in these last few days it’s all coming together finally.
I understand what you mean now. I do agree with you to a degree but our stock speakers are oversized and can easily be modified to fit the aftermarket 6 x 9s perfectly. This means OEM fitment which is very hard to beat. Reusing the OEM speaker as a mounting surface also allows you to use the OEM wiring clip so the install is super clean. I do suggest using some butyl rope to seal any gaps between the new speaker and OEM modified mounting ring though.
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I understand what you mean now. I do agree with you to a degree but our stock speakers are oversized and can easily be modified to fit the aftermarket 6 x 9s perfectly. This means OEM fitment which is very hard to beat. Reusing the OEM speaker as a mounting surface also allows you to use the OEM wiring clip so the install is super clean. I do suggest using some butyl rope to seal any gaps between the new speaker and OEM modified mounting ring though.
ya the one step I skipped was filling the gap between the stock speakers mount and the new speaker outer edge. Does that really make that much of a difference?
ya the one step I skipped was filling the gap between the stock speakers mount and the new speaker outer edge. Does that really make that much of a difference?
The speaker should fit tight up against the door. Just like the factory one
The speaker should fit tight up against the door. Just like the factory one
the speaker fits right up against the door like stock but there is a small gap in between the stock mount and the edge of the new speaker. The how to on here shows the guy using hot glue to fill that small gap.
is what I use and is forever sticky and flexible. You can mold it to whatever shape you want. As for end result, I prefer to fill all gaps and properly sound deaden the doors. I think it does make a difference but only if you are soundproofing the whole door. If you are not using sound deadener then you probably won't notice any difference if there is a gap. I used so much deadener in my doors that my door speakers actually bump a little against my legs. The deadener materials really help to bring out the midbass.
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Serving the forum for over 8 years
Brands we sell include: Kicker,NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.
PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
I have 2 of the VD-8's in my 2018 SCREW and they are awesome. You are going to want a bigger sub amp even for the one 10 though. They are power hungry subs and really want their rated RMS power.
I have 2 of the VD-8's in my 2018 SCREW and they are awesome. You are going to want a bigger sub amp even for the one 10 though. They are power hungry subs and really want their rated RMS power.
so i actually went way bigger. I got a deal on a kicker 12” L7 and a kicker CX 1200.1 that I could not pass up. I’ll have a bass **** to keep it low for the most part but when I feel like having a party in my truck lol.
06-08-2018, 02:51 PM
