Scuba_Dave

Installing new speakers has led to installing an Amp.....under the back seat
With other additions/possible power needs that leads to a power block
In the past w/other vehicles I have simply tied into the fuse block
Which can be a mess & turn ugly real fast

I'll be wiring up backup LED's, Interior LED's, bed LED's...who knows what else
Maybe a sub-woofer at some point
*Heated front seats* = 9amps

I have 2 amps, Alpine 3552 -which needs pre-amps out...so that is a No go since staying w/stock stereo

2nd is a Kenwood KAC-714 20a fuse, 100w
Can use speaker input, then out to the rear speakers
Figure this will make it easier to re-route rear speaker wire to the amp, then back to the speakers

Now for power...I have some 6g wire, can handle Max 82a
From battery to fuse....then fuse to back seat to a power block/fuse setup

So...never wired up this much in a car...have wired up a 200a panel in my house + others
What do I use for a Fuse inside the engine compartment ?
Where do I run the 6g wire ? Inside the truck would seem to offer most protection
Will that gauge fit under the door sill & to back seat ?

What do I use for a fuse block under the back seat ?

Advice....anything I'm missing
Thanks

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Start by getting yourself an amp wiring kit. It will have the wire and fuses you need. You can use the Alpine by adding high to low converters to each speaker channel at about $10 each but honestly I would just get a new amp. The Alpine is about 10 years old if my research is correct and it has only 30 watts per channel.

Scuba_Dave

Thanks, I actually have all the wire I need...more then I need...rolls & rolls & spools of it
I just need the Main fuse for the 6g wire, then a fuse block for under the back seat
And advice on where to thread the 6g

I've used the Alpine in the past w/head unit w/pre-amp out...its a great Amp
It was built before all the crap over-inflated wattages started
Since the stock radio does not have pre-amp out (I assume) I'll be using the Kenwood

Kenwood should put out up to 100w per channel peak
Also an Amp I have used in the past, the Alpine is better

I have a dual MTX sub-woofer setup, no place to put it in the truck
Need the back seat for the kid

I just need to know the type of fuse to buy...like if this one is good

Feathermerchant

That fuse looks OK. You need a fuse with the correct amp rating. Connect it to the + on the battery with a short wire. Then run your wire rearward along the factory harness and find the grommet where it goes into the cab, There is a nipple you can make a hole in to pass the wire into the cab. Pull up your plastic door sills and you will find a tray full of wires. You can run it behind the seats using the tray.
FWIW I used 2 class D MVX amps which are very small and mounted them under the radio. I did not have to run any wires behind the back seats at all. Much easier IMO. One is 4 ch 400W, and the other is a monoblock for the sub. Works great.

Scuba_Dave

Thanks, I've seen a few different types of fuse holders
I really didn't want to run the wire under the truck exposed to the elements
This will be a warm weather project unless I can clear out some stuff in the garage
I just looked at the Kenwood again & realized its the Mono amp for the MTX sub
Back to the drawing board....

ls67nova

This is what I did. I posted this in another thread and just copied/pasted here.

All connections at the battery, main fuse, and distribution block were done using black 4 gauge Kolossus wire and were done with these type of connectors:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!D...er-Lugs/p_1012


Those connectors were used with the solder slugs in the link below (amps were grounded individually using these connections as well but only in 8 gauge). I also added one more 4 gauge ground from the battery to the frame using these as well. I also used the double wall adhesive lined shrink tube as well. Here's the slugs:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Termina...r-Slugs/p_1036


Video on how to use those connections and slugs:



Ran from the battery into a 100amp megafuse:
http://www.delcity.net/store/MEGA-Fuses/p_800374


And it is in a megafuse holder:
http://www.delcity.net/store/MEGA-Fuse-Holder/p_795652


IMO this is the best connection setup you can get rather than a set screw pressing against your power wire. Plus it blends VERY well with everything else and keeps it stock looking under my hood.


For the cabling path, I went through the oval shaped grommet on the passenger side of the firewall by the ECM connections, then ran down under the passenger side plates to the back wall. Once I got to the back wall, I ran across the back wall to its center where I connected it to a single point distribution post:
http://www.vteworld.com/content/elec.../770Series.php


And covered the distribution post with this:
http://www.vteworld.com/content/term.../956Series.php


Each amp has its own 8 gauge power line coming off that post. Amp grounds are 8 gauge and were done individually for each amp to a spot on the frame directly beneath them. There was a good location under each amp that already had holes in the frame, so I ground the paint off, made the connection, and repainted the area. Yes, I had to drill holes in the cabin rear wall to get the ground wires to the frame and also to keep the grounds as short as possible, but again, I painted the wall holes, used a grommet, and siliconed them too.

I have ZERO noise, zero light flicker, etc. I've used these type of connectors before on my Nova and I'll never use anything else. Hope I'm not sounding arrogant, but I'm just totally happy with the way it turned out and trying to share.

Scuba_Dave

Thanks, that's what I'm looking for
Your links do not work but the video is the seller
Plus that site looks like it has what I need, just double checking my list
6 connections - 4 for hot, 2 for ground : tinned version not copper
http://www.delcity.net/store/Tinned-...-Lugs/p_796014
1/2" shrink tubing (red), Midi fuses & holder, fuse block
http://www.delcity.net/store/search/...jsp?item=78945

Smallest Mega fuse is 100a, so I'll go with the Midi fuse/holder at 80a
They have an 8 position fuse block -should be enough for what I have planned
I actually have RCA to speaker converters, so will try out the Alpine amp once I get power to the back seat
I originally had the Alpine setup to run the rear speakers in my car + the sub, later added the Kenwood to just power the sub
Then the Alpine was running all 4 speakers in the car

Only thing they do not have is a 6g solder slug
I guess I can make my own...I have plenty of solder....
Wow, just saw the price of a solder bar, we've run across some at work & they get tossed in metal recycyling

Just found another Fuse block: "only" 6 way...$35
I'm assuming the nut on the end is for power in, use one of the 4 bolt holes for ground connection
There is a cheaper version of this (1/2 price) -but only has slide on blade connectors
I prefer to be able to bolt the wires on
http://www.delcity.net/store/6!way-A...Panel/p_793543





I was looking at the one below 1st: only $8.50 ??
I don't see how to connect power in.....push fitting on the end??
That doesn't seem right...not for 80a rated capacity
Also doesn't clearly show how you connect the output wires
Seems they may be bottom connected....not the right block for me then
http://www.delcity.net/store/8!way-A...-Block/p_10823

ls67nova

Those fuse blocks are only pass through. No incoming main power. Look at Del City for their 6 way "ganged" fuse block. That's what I used for my 4 heated seats with a relay.

VTE world has smaller amp Mega Fuses.

Scuba_Dave

Thanks, Looking at VTE site now, seems they have a $25 min order
(maybe that is just to get the 5% discount ? -but proceed to checkout is grayed out)
I'm only up to $11 so far..........doesn't seem to be much on their site I'd need
Yeah, found the Del City fuse block -can even add on if needed

ls67nova

http://m.ebay.com/itm/281486518640?nav=SEARCH