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If you have Sync3 and want to get more bass or loudness read this

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Old 06-19-2019, 09:44 PM
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It's on the FORScan sheet. lines 94-96. Doesn't copy well here.
Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (for adding aftermarket amp without sound clipping)ACM727-01-01xx5AxxxxxxxxSee DanMc85's post here for a write-up on this

727-01-0200xxxxxxxxxx

APIM7D0-01-012xxxxxxxxxxx<--- this change required only if you have Sony DSP

PM if you need further help.
Old 06-19-2019, 10:11 PM
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I would do the FORScan changes, 2-3 depending if its Sony or not then use the front and rear speaker outs from the radio. IDK if these changes will affect the kicker hideway's inputs or not. I will say that having an amp that turns on/off via the RCA inputs is paramount especially if you want to keep chimes through the speakers. Otherwise the damn truck somehow knows that the chimes aren't playing through the speakers and the sounds will be rerouted to a module behind the speedo. That may or may not work for you. Its kinda preference, but I also have BLISS so I wanted things to stay as stock as possible.

Anyway PM if you have more Q's.
Old 06-20-2019, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by STF15.0
Thanks for the reply, do you remember what changes you made with FORScan? This thing has almost made me rip all I've done out. Lol I have my rear speakers going to a CleanSweep then to my amp. I'm also have a kicker hideaway wired into the factory sub harness.
You need to be using the front channels only. It's the only correct way to do a speaker upgrade. Forscan is not necessary.
Old 07-30-2019, 06:30 PM
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What are the wire colors for the driver front speakers? or where is the best place to pull the front signal from?
Old 07-31-2019, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gatightlines
What are the wire colors for the driver front speakers? or where is the best place to pull the front signal from?
Don't know about the colors but you would pull signal from behind the headunit using the for-11ck harness.
Old 08-01-2019, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dhmcfadin
Don't know about the colors but you would pull signal from behind the headunit using the for-11ck harness.

Why are people so against using a harness? It's the only way to go. The days of splicing into factory wires are gone.
Old 09-12-2019, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by it8ezbngrn
Thanks for the offer, but I'm concerned that the problem is not linear, as in it's always lacking bass. I don't know if Accu Bass would recognize that up past volume number 18 that the bass is not equal with the other frequencies. I might need to call Audio Control and see what they say. I was thinking of just buying an Audio Control 6.1200 and see what happens. It has a built in LOC and Accu Bass. My concern with amplifying the doors is what happens to my parking sensor warnings and BLISS warnings especially if I Forscan the signal down to 5V pre amp.

Today when I did the Forscan code for what is supposed to be the EQ kill, my chimes went to a module behind my instrument cluster. At least I know with the AC 6.1200 it has a decent built in LOC. $515 is not what I wanted to spend right now. I just dropped $270 on some Hybrid Audios and I got a smoking deal but, still $270, and they look plain compared to other brands. I got a set of Imagine 6x9s for the front and M-something 6.5" for the rears. I was hoping that this was the end. I may have to deal with it till Santa brings me an amp.

The Audiocontrol Accubass was designed just for this problem. There is a threshold you can set the bass restoration circuit. It will bring subsonic frequencies by pulling parametrically from adjacent ones. So when you hit volume 15 , here it comes. I have the AC DM-810 DSP with the same circuit on my 2017 SHO with sync3. If your gonna spend the $ for a AC amp get the one with a DSP built in (basically a 1200.6 with a DSP inside .
Old 09-13-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by John Bgood
The Audiocontrol Accubass was designed just for this problem. There is a threshold you can set the bass restoration circuit. It will bring subsonic frequencies by pulling parametrically from adjacent ones. So when you hit volume 15 , here it comes. I have the AC DM-810 DSP with the same circuit on my 2017 SHO with sync3. If your gonna spend the $ for a AC amp get the one with a DSP built in (basically a 1200.6 with a DSP inside .
Accubass does not work properly on the F150 .. its a guessing game .. you will listen the same track 5 times and the bass will come in 5 different times .. there is no need for Accubass if you have the base radio as the signal is already flat and full range
Old 09-13-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by doug97gxe
Accubass does not work properly on the F150 .. its a guessing game .. you will listen the same track 5 times and the bass will come in 5 different times .. there is no need for Accubass if you have the base radio as the signal is already flat and full range
Yup, if you are adding any type of aftermarket amplifier, you should always use the front left and right channels as your source. These channels are full frequency and flat from the factory in all non-amplified f150's. Forscan is not needed in any way. The rear channels have a non-defeatable 80hz high pass filter. Music is recorded in stereo left and right not front and rear. Only the front left and right channels are needed. Because the front channels are full frequency and flat, accu-bass is not needed.
Old 09-20-2019, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RLXXI
Stock head units are junk from the word go, installing better speakers, loc, sub, amps etc are only bandaids not the fix. Replace the crap in dash with a quality HU. Yeah it's gonna cost a bit more but oh so worth it.
.
The problem with replacing the head unit is there aren't any dash kits for the 8 inch touchscreen. Only the 4" screen. That means you can't use the steering wheel controls. So band-aids are the only option for some of us.


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