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These new cars is one of the reasons I quit installing. I started installing back in 1990 and in 2011 I was over it. Cars just started becoming complicated, especially for remote start. Installing wasn't my primary career after 1997 although, I was still doing it about 25+ hrs/week and I worked for a car alarm manufacture for a period of time.
I'd rather have a nice car with a basic radio than these new systems where the radio practically runs the car. I had a '17 Ridgeline and the radio was nice in the model I had but it also controlled all the selectable options in the car among other things.
Stock head units are junk from the word go, installing better speakers, loc, sub, amps etc are only bandaids not the fix. Replace the crap in dash with a quality HU. Yeah it's gonna cost a bit more but oh so worth it.
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Using the Kicker plug in the rear seems to be working. I don't notice it as I did before.
Ordered an Audio Control LC6.1200 amp. The Axxess AX-DSP-FD02 plug works similar to the Parrot / Carnav. I will be using Forscn to change to 5V. I will not do the second code because it for sure changes the chimes from the speakers to a module behind the dash. I have BLISS so I'm worried about that working as intended with that Forscan change.
I upgraded to Hybrid Audio speakers and they sound soooo good. They will start to distort past 25 because of the deck. Its why I'm changing to a 5 channel amp and giving it a go. The AC LC6.1200 does high and low inputs in and its probably one of the best ones for that situation.
I have mine set up with the factory radio Forscan'ed to have the pre-amp outputs, flat eq and no center channel. The Chimes and backup sensor beeps still come through the speakers once the amp turns on. I don't notice any bass roll off.
My bad, just realized this was for sync 3 and I am running sync 2.
Scratch that. The USB only works for 3 minutes now. Will reset and test , but I have had these issues whenever I mess with the ACM. Any change to the ACM in the 727-01-01 or 727-01-02 screws with my USB. Throws errors and junk.
It fried my USB flash drive drive.
Last edited by it8ezbngrn; 10-16-2018 at 05:44 PM.
That may be the answer, the aux subwoofer. I can't imagine that it does it with that output. That would torque someone off to spend $600 on the Kicker upgrade and it sounds like it peters out near the end. I was an installer for the better part of 20 years, and the first thing people do is see how loud it can go. So, I think someone would have said something if that was the case, its worth a shot. One thing though, isn't Kicker option only for '17 and below? I though I read something about it not being compatible with '18 models. Its worth a try. Now gotta find the plug and the thread.
I have the Kicker sub in a 2018. I ordered it from the factory that way. I can also confirm bass keeps getting louder with the volume, it doesn't cut it back at any point.
The sub itself is so-so. It's does a good job about 3/4 of the time, but with some music it's like it can't handle the specific frequencies and it sounds distorted. I added polyfil to the box which helped some, but it'll still sound odd sometimes. I keep the EQ at Treble +2, Mid 0, Bass +1.
I am not familiar with the Kicker accessory but maybe there is a crossover on it. If so, you should set it at 80hz. Anything above 80 starts to sound muddy. Adding polyfill makes the speaker think the box is bigger.
I will try the kicker Forscan mod again. I am going to remove all things plugged into the USB first and do a few key cycles before checking it.
I am not familiar with the Kicker accessory but maybe there is a crossover on it. If so, you should set it at 80hz. Anything above 80 starts to sound muddy. Adding polyfill makes the speaker think the box is bigger.
I will try the kicker Forscan mod again. I am going to remove all things plugged into the USB first and do a few key cycles before checking it.
I think the crossover is set in the ACM when the setting is changed to "with Kicker sound". I have no idea what it is and don't think there's a way to change it. There's definitely nothing on the sub itself--just an amp and the sub driver.
I was able to use Forscan to make the changes without issue. Remove any USB devices when making changes to the ACM. I now have a 6 channel amp up and running. Testing the RCA input turn on feature. It turns on but I don't think it is turning off.
Finally finished. I used a Axxess DSP Plug for the Ford so I didn't have to cut the OEM harness. Used Streetwires 9 wire speaker wire, 2 sets of Rockford Fosgate RCA to speaker wire plugs, Two 17ft RCAs, Hybrid Audio Speakers, Metra Speaker mounts (they suck, the screw don't fit the holes), Audio Control LC6.1200 amp and good 8 ga wire. Amp is set so it turns on via the RCA input. I did notice that it only senses off the front #1 channel. So make that the left front. All said and done I am into it $884+ not counting the Forscan, JL Audio 8" or the USB drive I fried. I also spent $60 on 3 rolls of sound deadening, I had one roll. So four rolls total to almost cover all four doors and a spot behind the speaker.
As far as the Hybrid Audios, they don't look like much but they sound awesome, but its comes at a price The rears were $170 and I got a set of refurb'd front for $100 and they are normally $500. The Audio Control LC 6.1200 was an open box for $500. Normally $700+
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Last edited by it8ezbngrn; 10-21-2018 at 12:55 AM.
10-13-2018, 06:43 PM
