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If you have Sync3 and want to get more bass or loudness read this

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Old 10-12-2018, 09:02 PM
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Default If you have Sync3 and want to get more bass or loudness read this

I have discovered a few things in trying to add a little more loudness and quality to my '18 XLT 302A w Sync 3. It appears that there is a attenuation in the lower frequencies and I cannot seem to get rid of it even using the Forscan code to eliminate the DSP. In layman's terms the radio stops the volume of the bass at upper volumes. It is really noticeable when you add a sub. You will notice that the sub stops getting louder while mids and highs (door speakers) continue on. I and others believe that the radio is causing this. Here is a video of an install where they see it on an RTA. They have RTAs on front an rear channels and they see what they think is a X-over on the lower freqs on the rear channels. My amp is slaved off my rear channels. Start watching at 19 minutes. The fix may be to try the front channels and hope that works.

I have tried the Forscan code that some say kills the DSP and all it did was divert the reminder chimes for key in ignition, lights on, etc to a module behind the cluster. I did not see what it did with the rear parking sensor warnings or BLIS warnings. Keep in mind that I just did the one code and I am still using deck power for the door speakers. I think that some may think that the code works is because they also did the code to turn the speaker level outputs to 5V pre-amp outs and when using a powerful amp with the gains set at 3/4, you never have to turn the radio up to where it begins to attenuate the bass frequencies. So this may be the work around, but not a true solution. I'm sure that a real nice DSP solves it entirely but you're looking at $500 for that. The Axxess, if works or can adjust on the fly that is is $300. Some of us are just regular Joes wanting a little more and not looking to go all out.

So if your looking to add new door speakers and a sub amp to the factory radio, for a little more bass, be aware that there appears to be some limitations. It will sound good at lower volumes but then you will notice the bass just hits a brick wall at around 25 on the radio. Kinda makes adding some nice speakers to the OEM radio seem pointless as far as hearing more bass at upper volumes.

I don't think there is a kit for the Sync 3 non Sony system and if there is it is expensive I'm sure. I stopped by my old audio shop and help install a $500 Metra kit in a XL with the small screen and even then some changes had to be made to integrate the amps so that the front channels did not pass through the kits module and possibly burn it out. Its designed for deck power and we didn't want to take a chance of the amp burning it up.

So I'm starting to feel that you have two choices, live with the attenuation of the bass or go all out. Do the Forscan codes, amplify everything and do turn the radio past a certain point unless you go further and replace the radio or add a DSP and hope that it can compensate at the point when the bass frequencies tailor off.

I need to find time to stop by the shop and see if they have an RTA and see for myself whats all being attenuated.

Maybe some who has more experience with the stock system and an RTA can comment.


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Old 10-12-2018, 09:33 PM
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What you are describing isn't necessarily attenuation. It's a physical limitation of the output of the headunit. That is the reason you cannot use forscan to remove the eq. It's not eq. The proper procedure to circumvent this is to set your gains with a -5db range of tones; 5k for tweeters, 1k for mids, 50 hz for subs. By using test tones cut by -5 dB, your gains will be configured at a higher volume. So instead of your output clipping at 28 on the stock headunit, you will reach max volume at 24-25 thus you will no longer be subject to the "roll off" from the headunit.
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:16 AM
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Or you can use an audio control lc2i with accubass for LOC. I believe it’s the same thing (accu bass) the guys use in the video to fix the bass roll off. I haven’t seen the vid in awhile. But IIRC, those dudes use some kind of audio control product. I have a NIB (plastic anyway) lc2i and remote bass **** that works with it that I never used for my set up. I ended up going with a dq61 I had laying around. Shot me a pm if you’re interested.

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Old 10-13-2018, 01:05 AM
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Or, take the subwoofer signal from your front channels.

Or, use the factory subwoofer wiring and enable the aux subwoofer through forscan. I have seen the thread with the pictures of the wires and there are codes in forscan… not sure how this works though.
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Old 10-13-2018, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dhmcfadin
What you are describing isn't necessarily attenuation. It's a physical limitation of the output of the headunit. That is the reason you cannot use forscan to remove the eq. It's not eq. The proper procedure to circumvent this is to set your gains with a -5db range of tones; 5k for tweeters, 1k for mids, 50 hz for subs. By using test tones cut by -5 dB, your gains will be configured at a higher volume. So instead of your output clipping at 28 on the stock headunit, you will reach max volume at 24-25 thus you will no longer be subject to the "roll off" from the headunit.
It starts at 15 and flattens out by 20. I can pretty much just turn the volume back and forth from 20-30 with no change in the sub. I only have the sub amp. Pots on the LOC are 3/4, gain on amp is 3/4 and bass **** (remote gain) is centered. 0 bass boost on the amp. Its a JL Audio JX500/1 with the JL micro 8 sub. I haven't experienced this before when I had it in the last two cars with Fact amplified systems. The only thing I can say is different is that I was coming off the Fact subwoofer.

I can tun up the remote gain when its up at 20 or more to make the sub match but then when i turn the volume back down the sub is up too much. I think I would have to amplify everything and then set it up so that the usable volume range would be 0-15 0r maybe 20. Thats how I would have to compensate for whatever is going on. I don't think its clipping since I can still turn it up remotely.
Old 10-13-2018, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dunatic619
Or you can use an audio control lc2i with accubass for LOC. I believe it’s the same thing (accu bass) the guys use in the video to fix the bass roll off. I haven’t seen the vid in awhile. But IIRC, those dudes use some kind of audio control product. I have a NIB (plastic anyway) lc2i and remote bass **** that works with it that I never used for my set up. I ended up going with a dq61 I had laying around. Shot me a pm if you’re interested.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm concerned that the problem is not linear, as in it's always lacking bass. I don't know if Accu Bass would recognize that up past volume number 18 that the bass is not equal with the other frequencies. I might need to call Audio Control and see what they say. I was thinking of just buying an Audio Control 6.1200 and see what happens. It has a built in LOC and Accu Bass. My concern with amplifying the doors is what happens to my parking sensor warnings and BLISS warnings especially if I Forscan the signal down to 5V pre amp.

Today when I did the Forscan code for what is supposed to be the EQ kill, my chimes went to a module behind my instrument cluster. At least I know with the AC 6.1200 it has a decent built in LOC. $515 is not what I wanted to spend right now. I just dropped $270 on some Hybrid Audios and I got a smoking deal but, still $270, and they look plain compared to other brands. I got a set of Imagine 6x9s for the front and M-something 6.5" for the rears. I was hoping that this was the end. I may have to deal with it till Santa brings me an amp.
Old 10-13-2018, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Kanadian-kaos
Or, take the subwoofer signal from your front channels.

Or, use the factory subwoofer wiring and enable the aux subwoofer through forscan. I have seen the thread with the pictures of the wires and there are codes in forscan… not sure how this works though.
That may be the answer, the aux subwoofer. I can't imagine that it does it with that output. That would torque someone off to spend $600 on the Kicker upgrade and it sounds like it peters out near the end. I was an installer for the better part of 20 years, and the first thing people do is see how loud it can go. So, I think someone would have said something if that was the case, its worth a shot. One thing though, isn't Kicker option only for '17 and below? I though I read something about it not being compatible with '18 models. Its worth a try. Now gotta find the plug and the thread.
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by dhmcfadin
What you are describing isn't necessarily attenuation. It's a physical limitation of the output of the headunit.
Did you mean to say "...output of the speaker"?

Originally Posted by dhmcfadin
The proper procedure to circumvent this is to set your gains with a -5db range of tones; 5k for tweeters, 1k for mids, 50 hz for subs. By using test tones cut by -5 dB, your gains will be configured at a higher volume. So instead of your output clipping at 28 on the stock headunit, you will reach max volume at 24-25 thus you will no longer be subject to the "roll off" from the headunit.
This is a pretty solid idea for a workaround, but with a couple caveats:
1. This could really only work if all speakers are being amped, which you alluded.
Setting only a sub amp's gain with a tone at -5db could make it overpower the rest of the system even at low-moderate volumes, thus possibly requiring constant adjustment via bass **** control to match the speaker output levels.
2. Turning the radio dial above the new "max" volume would cause clipping/distortion, and possibly damaged/blown speakers.
(Tip: You can use Ford's MyKey feature to set a max radio volume, eliminating this possible issue.)



Originally Posted by it8ezbngrn
That may be the answer, the aux subwoofer. I can't imagine that it does it with that output. That would torque someone off to spend $600 on the Kicker upgrade and it sounds like it peters out near the end. I was an installer for the better part of 20 years, and the first thing people do is see how loud it can go. So, I think someone would have said something if that was the case, its worth a shot. One thing though, isn't Kicker option only for '17 and below? I though I read something about it not being compatible with '18 models. Its worth a try. Now gotta find the plug and the thread.
Kicker isn't the only option. You can get the WPT1212 wiring adapter for ~$30 and use any sub+amp combo you want using the factory power+signal wiring (enabled via Forscan), provided the amp has a max 20A draw (about 200w RMS).

Last edited by tenx82; 10-13-2018 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 10-13-2018, 01:41 PM
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- He meant head unit. His point is valid and often true, but I don't think it's whats happening here.

I'm going to use the signal from the Kicker plug. I don't need a $25 plug. I can cut wires. I will have it completed Sunday night and I will know if that fixed it. If not, I have a Audio Control 6.1200 sitting in a cart.

- I agree that the second option is a good workaround and I like your MyKey idea - thats good thinking.
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Old 10-13-2018, 05:46 PM
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LOL come sit in my truck. I rattle the windows of the houses on my street I am not seeing any bass roll off as I turn it up. :-) I've had the head unit up to 30 on the dial and my sundowns flex everything.
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