Originally Posted by Gremlin85

Before changing where you get your signal from, make sure your gain isn't too high on both the LOC and the amp. You might be overpowering the speaker.

I would then make sure your speaker connections are solid and not moving around while the sub is playing.

After that , double-check your ground wire. Make sure it is 18" or shorter and mounted to the body securely and cleanly. Make sure it's not mounted on a painted or greasy surface.

Originally Posted by RedAggie03

JW, I also have a 2014 with MFT and opted NOT to use the sub source because I read about issues... Pull the center console and grab the signal from the front or back door.

The front door signal is not full, it's just mids and lows. It also gets bluetooth and MFT sounds. The rear is a full signal, without BT and MFT. Probably go with the rear door...

Also, if you can afford it, throw away that LOC and get a LC2i or similar. The stock amp reduces the bass to speakers at higher volumes to keep from blowing stuff. The LC2i detects this and adds it back. Works great.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by JwvickersECO

well I've hooked up another head unit to the speakers and they play cleanly so I've pretty much narrowed down the problem to the input source, somewhere from the sub output of the Sony amp, and the Input of the JL amp. I believe the solution would be to tap the rear speakers I read especially if they are full signal speakers

Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab

Are u sure your connections from the factory sub connection to your LOC are correct. I don't remember hearing of others having an issue as long as the connections are correct.

Originally Posted by Gremlin85

When I wired mine up, the two Black wires I used are Negative and the Red and Yellow are positive.

Factory Sub wiring looks like:

+ purple with green tracer
- green with white tracer
&
+ green with purple tracer
- gray

The rca has 2 black wires and then a white and red for positive. a red and black is one channel and the white and black is another.

Originally Posted by JwvickersECO

yeah I mean the subs work and play but there's almost like another signal, the best way I could describe the sound would be like when you have an auxcord that's about to break and you twist it around in the aux Jack. The noise was there before and after the LOC

Originally Posted by JwvickersECO

awesome I think I will try that, I plan on going with a lc7i but I'm piecing the stereo together, bought some focal ps130v components for up front last night, the lc7i will probably be next. Eventually I'll get all the components lol thanks for the help

Originally Posted by 06F150CFCT

Well I finally got all my supplies and installed everything today....wow!!! What a difference...Jesus, I'm impressed at how well it sounds even with the stock head unit. Thanks to Gremlin85 for the help and especially for the wire colors on the sub output. The colors were dead on and worked first shot. I ended up having to mount my amp on the driver side behind the rear seat due to using the gromet under the drivers side dash to run the power wire. I couldn't even see the passenger side gromet entry when I tried....everything went smoothly and the fact of the Pioneer amp having the remote audio sensing turn on is so clutch. No need for a remote turn on wire. I ran some extra wire from the factory sub wires to the amp behind the driver side seat but other than that it was easy squeezy. The sound is fantastic with my one 12" Kicker (500w RMS). So glad I did this....I love listening to music again...although my Borla Pro XS sounds good too.....decisions decisions

Originally Posted by 06F150CFCT

Alright here is the deal....I am beyond confused researching about adding an amp (with 1, maybe 2 subs) to my factory Sync/Sony system with Nav. There is so much conflicting posts and people with slightly different issues. So if anyone can help dumb this down for me that would be greatly appreciated!

I see I can't use a PAC AOEM-FRD24...after getting through 10 pages of that thread....or can I? Did i miss some new breakthrough?

It appears my options are to use a LOC, like a PAC SNI-35, or tap directory into the factory sub wires. Maybe a LC2i? Although that says it has 2 channels but I only need 1 for my subs. Is this correct? What's the best option?

So now I have a question that involves components. If I want to use a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D amp which has an RMS of 500w @ 2ohms, is it a sufficient option to power 1 or 2 Rockford Fosgate P3DS4-12 DVC 4ohm (I would get the 2ohm one if I just go with 1 sub) that are rated at 400w RMS and 800w max a piece?? My issue is I don't want to run into headlight dimming or blowing out my alternator or battery so I figure keeping it around 500w RMS is safer. However, I don't know if this is severely underpowering 2 of those subs. From what I have read, ideally I want an amp rated at 800w RMS but that seems like I am going to start running into issues with the headlights dimming without doing the big 3 upgrade or upgrading my battery and alternator. I have no problem getting a 1000w amp but only if it won't cause issues. I do have the 6.2 motor with max tow/max pay so I may have a bigger alt to start with? Not sure...I'd have to look.

Any opinions on other combos of subs/amps is welcome but I'm not trying to pay for the JL's or Sundown subs. I don't need a ridiculous system, I'm just looking for a budget friendly upgrade wit some thump. Looking to spend around $400-$600 total for box, amp, sub(s), 4 gauge wiring, and LOC (if necessary).

Sorry for the novel and I would appreciate any help/input. I know this topic has been beaten to death but I can't find what I need to know by searching here. Thanks guys and gals!!