Heat issue cutting out amp
11-30-2017, 06:17 PM
#11
I took a look at the amp you have....um...I'd invest in a better amp! or better yet..invest in 2 better amps! One mono amp for your 10 and a stereo amp for your door speakers. That Rockville really doesnt have close to 800 watts and you are totally over driving it and asking it to do more then it ever can! Im sure you are clipping the hell out of it, which in return is heating it up and sooner or later will destroy your sub and door speakers.
The amp is certified to produce the stated power outputs. It doesn't clip (it has input levelers that are set correctly, probably even attenuating the inputs just a tad) and its not driving the speakers to bottom out (I am using RF Punch P1683s rated at 65WRMS 130WPeak and a single RF R2 Ultra Shallow 10in
sub 200wRMS) . Its a pretty clean setup for the cost. It is only a class A/B amp so its gonna get a little hot.
I'm 110% leaning towards the issue being the mounting location, not the amp.
I'm not sure putting the sub on its own amp would really help.. now I'll have TWO furnaces behind the seat, not just one and I don't think my alternator could power 40-80A DC and still run the truck.
I found some fans for $10-15 I'm gonna try that route before splitting the sub off the amp.
Last edited by MilosF150; 11-30-2017 at 06:22 PM.
11-30-2017, 06:46 PM
#12
Yes it set up and working fine... its just that extended high power use put it into thermal shutdown (which is good, but annoying).
Its a 4 channel amp Rockville RXA-F1 in 3 channel mode. Front speakers in parallel on Ch1/2 (left/right) and Ch 3/4 bridged for the sub.
I could reroute under the passenger seat... but that's a last resort.. I like it hidden.
Would moving the sub to its own amp help?
Its a 4 channel amp Rockville RXA-F1 in 3 channel mode. Front speakers in parallel on Ch1/2 (left/right) and Ch 3/4 bridged for the sub.
I could reroute under the passenger seat... but that's a last resort.. I like it hidden.
Would moving the sub to its own amp help?