Dunatic619

iTrader: (1)

Thanks soooo much everyone for all the input. So I’ve decided to eliminate the rears all together. When the volume is up loud, I cant hear em anyway. And it will simplify the process. I don’t want to change the dsp. I got a killer deal on it and want to run it.

When the truck detects that there are no speaker connected, all interiors sounds are sent to the dash. Which is fine for me. It’s not very loud, but it’ll still mute the volume and I can hear the sonar chirps.

A friend of mine has the 5 channel amp I’m looking to buy. He owes me some money and said I can borrow it to see if I can make it work without buying a dedicated 6 channel amp. I just can’t justify the cost right now and even if I didn’t have so much going on, I still don’t think I’d be willing to spend the cash for a 6 channel or a 10 channel dsp. The truck maybe gets driven 3 times/week and each time is a 30 min round trip. Truck is 1.5 years old and has 6K miles on it. If it was my daily, I’d definitely do it.

Plus the 5 channel has a sub level control ****, which from my research the Dayton does not have. I think it only does system volume control and switching between presets. I guess I could do a few presets that are the same for mids and highs and then have the sub level be different, but I’d rather have full volume control of the subs at all times.

Now for the installation. The instructions say when using the high level inputs, to have it switched to speaker mode. But in speaker mode it says on initial power up, a “pop” may go thru the speakers and to wire up a capacitor inline for tweeters. Would I be able to wire up some splice in rca adapters, and run on remote mode so I don’t have to wire up capacitors in-line? I also don’t want to change the speaker level outputs to low level outputs in forscan. A friend of mine did that and he has a “pop” each time he starts his truck. I have high level connections that go into my AC dq61 and I have no “pop” noises at all. I don’t know if that will work. Or would it be more ideal to just wire up the capacitors?

Thanks again everyone!!!

Bo.

Good decision if you want to keep things simple.

I know all about opinions, but anyone that is setting up a system for the driver's seat (pretty much anyone using a DSP with today's available tech), and isn't worried about rear passengers should ditch the rears anyway. That whole KISS principle thing has meaning in these situations!

--Bo

jdunk54nl

I agree for the most part, but rear fill does have a place, just not with most of the tech we have now. A jbl ms8 could do logic processing and help the soundstage. But most dsp’s do not offer that.

woodall01

I can let you know how the Dayton works after this weekend, I am installing it along with a Audiocontrol LC-6.1200. I was planning to run 2-way upfront and power the rears with the Audiocontrol, but with some prodding and research on my own I have decided to drop the rear. I am going to run some 3 ways in the next couple of months, I just need to buy the mounts for upfront and Hit Bruce up for a "Mid-range" Speaker. I am running a JL Audio Micropower+ power 8" sub with a built in amp.

woodall01

I am putting Caps on my tweeters just as a safety thing and it's cheap insurance(see link below, if you need help with the math let us know. It's kind of confusing), If the unit start popping, I might just convert to a remote trigger or I might put PAC TR4 inline. It's a delay in power up the system that might up to get rid of the pop.

stone36441

What would your thought be on running the tweeter and mid range from channels one and two of the amp to the three way crossover passive and the using channels 2 and four for the mid bass active? And then just use deck power for the rears?

HushCarAudio

No just no.

stone36441

So either run the 3 way full active or full passive but not semi actiive/passive correct. Im also trying to figure out how I want to do this by getting the most I can out of the aftermarket head unit and amplifier. Not really looking to add a dsp and spending endless hours on a laptop searching for the perfect sound. Any additional input is appreciated.

HushCarAudio

There is only active or passive. That's it, anything else is weird in my opinion. A DSP may be used in either setup. The DSP will be very limited in what it can do in a passive arrangement. In a passive setup, time alignment is the primary benefit since the crossovers handle the frequency outputs. In an active setup, the DSP requires one channel per speaker/tweeter/sub which means you'll get the most control over the system. I hope this info helps.

Tots

I understand what you’re asking here and don’t think it’s a stupid question.

You are thinking the dsp will see the crossover with the tweeter and midrange as one speaker and the midbass as the second of a two- way system and process accordingly.

I don’t have any experience other than everyone says not to. My intuition says the issue would be with a non optimal assignment of freqs for the speaker size/type and not control time alignment if the two speakers are any meaningful distance from each other- but I don’t know. Again, I don’t think it’s a stupid question. We don’t know what we don’t know.