2010FX4F150GILROY

One more word of caution dont run the Rca cables next to the power wire going to the battery....

MOTOunplugged

Oh yeah I know that much! Haha. But thanks for the tip incase I didn't know.

loganberry

if your spending this much money on all the products and stuff i wish you would do it the better way but to each there own, running the ground to the battery results in less voltage drop, smoother spikes in voltage drop, actually a gain in db and sound quality all from running a little more wire...if you choose not to do this just make sure you ground it to a good spot...but it is worth it to pay an extra 15 bucks for some more wire

MOTOunplugged

Logan would you suggest this amp.. (125x4 rms)
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...t_ONX4125.aspx

Or this one.. (80x4 rms)
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...rt_ONX480.aspx

My front components are 100rms each. Db6501. And the rear coaxials are 60rms each. Db571.

loganberry

the first one, its better to have more power on tap then you need that way if you ever wanna upgrade or add a few more speakers down the road you have enough power to do so...mb quart makes real nice mids and highs amps too so good choice

mSaLL150

IMO save the money and get the smaller 4 channel. Rear fill sucks, so run the rear coaxials off the head unit and fade them back just for fill (i would recommend not even using rear speakers, but that is up to you). Bridge the 4 channel on the front components.

Ruger

actually the frame of the truck is the best place to ground. I always recommend adding a ground stiffener to the neg terminal to the frame to stiffen up the ground. Running that long of a wire will created much more resistance. 12v power does not flow from positive to negative.. if flows negative to positive. I have tested resistance on many many systems that ran ground to the battery. The resistance is usually double or triple that of running a short wire to the frame. Also if you look at it this way think of all the metal that makes up your frame and body... that is roughly the equivalent of like a 000000g wire.

loganberry

im sorry but your wrong, i have tested as few as a couple other people i know frame ground to running to the battery and it does help..i myself gained .6 db, others have gained more, my voltage drop had less spikes in it and was less of a drop in itself with faster recharge...im not going to get into a pissing match with you just saying that running a ground to the front battery is better than grounding somewhere in the rear

2010FX4F150GILROY

Certain things are obvious without question it makes more sense to ground close to the amp then run a cable to the battery. It is also true that you can get a better ground at the battery than at the amplifier... But it is also true that your alternator needs to have a sufficient ground cable to work properly too.. here are ten simple rules to follow when installing your equipment.. This is really more than you asked hope it helps..
The Ten Commandments

I. The best cure is prevention. I can't overemphasize this point. If you've ever spent an entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.
II. Don't introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, I've found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out of ten.
III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the system.
IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference. Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.
V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicle's OEM radio harness. This wire usually makes a very poor ground due to it's length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to the chassis or firewall.
VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.
VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.
VIII. Don't connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp, modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.
IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of maximum. Now adjust the input sensitivity of the amplifiers upward until the maximum intended loudness is obtained.
X. Noise filters can only reduce noise, not eliminate it. A noise filter is just that, a filter. And like any other filter (crossover network, etc.), it works by modification, not elimination. Some installers rely on filters heavily. In some instances a filter may prove necessary, but I believe that if the system is installed properly, a filter is usually not required.

cobrawannab1

2010FX4F150GILROY you are wise. I shall obey The Ten Commandments.