ibf150

This is such a cool build if I worked for Polk audio I would have gave you all that stuff for free lol and with 6 15s and 2 10s I wouldn't be surprised if you put out some good spl numbers

JoeBoost

Your going to need at least 1 extra battery if not two...maybe 4 total for stable voltage to those amps when they are full draw. Install a digital volt gauge so you can monitor real time.

loganberry

You wont need 4 batteries, what is your starting battery? What size wires are ran to the back and how are the amps hooked up, bistro block? The 270 amp unit is good, Mechman is a strong alt for sure, if your running 3300 rms that's roughly 330 amps of power plus the 15-20 to run the truck without any major power draws. Even with a very strong battery upfront you should get a second. If you wanna do it right and spend some money I would go xs power batteries. If you got a d6500 for under the hood and a xp3000 for the back you'll be fine even if you add that other amp

JoeBoost

Call XS or Kinetic they can tell you what you need. You can also search for Puekert calculator which is commonly used to calculate battery needs for a particular load and will give you runtimes before total discharge of your planned battery pool. Your going big why skimp on the most important part of your install. IMO a starting battery plus 2 properly sized to handle your design would be the minimum.

BlackBeauty713

you are my new hero. deff keeping up with this thread.

officermartinez

Thanks everyone! Here is my brand new battery under my hood right now:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/c...nths+++850+CCA

As for wiring, I am running 0/1 gauge (big three). For my particular amplifiers, they will only take 4 gauge wires (ground and power). So I have each amp wired appropriately with 4 gauge. I completely agree with the not skimping on the power needs of the system. I preach that to a lot of people.

I don't have any problem buying more wires. That is the least of my worries. A few of the challenges that I am working on is:

- Where to mount my amplifiers?
- Where do I mount my extra batteries?
- What should I do for my aesthetics?

Etc, etc, etc.. Still in the transition stage between planning, designing and implementing. It's a project that I'm only going to be able to work on in "stages". My full time job(s) requires a lot of my time and energy. But, with that said, my headliner is removed and I will start my dynomatting soon..

clpeller

My vote stays with roof mounted amp rack. haha.

nyterydrtuckn26ss

this might sound crazy but my last car i put dynomat in i took spray foam insoluation and filled all the holes in the metal like the roof has and dyno matted over it seem to help out more

officermartinez

Well after measuring and remeasuring, I have decided against mounting the amps in the headliner. That's an aggressive mounting solution (albeit a pretty cool one) but I would have to more or less commit changes to my headliner that are unreversable should I ever decide to go with different amps / sell the truck / etc. I am also going to be running these amps pretty hard at 1 ohm and 1.3 ohms, respectively. Needless to say, they are going to be pretty darn warm if I crank on them for any extended period of time. So, since I really gave the headliner mounting solution a LOT of thought, I really enjoy the idea of the amps being up and out of the way. I am wondering if I can incorporate the amps within the roll bar mounting solution such as a plate (or plates) mounting to a cross bar or something.. Hmmmmm. Guess I would have to model something up and see if it even looks right before I go and spend hundreds of dollars on an amplifier mounting solution.

My buddy did that expanding foam in his Pontiac. For about a year, it really seemed to do its job wonderfully. No overly obnoxious rattles between panels or layers of metal. Eventually, the vibration of his (2) 18's loosened the expanding foam and you could hear the foam resonate. Eventually, the foam started breaking down and there would be foam "dust" everywhere each time he cranked it up. But, I will say that without the system on, driving down the road, his car was like being in a vaccuum sealed type enviroment.. Cadillac, Lexus, Mercedes, etc had nothing on his car as far as eliminating road noise. That stuff DOES work well when used with a sound deadener (he used Damplifier Pro).

* another side small update - a co-worker ended up buying my Polk 6x9's and my 600w Polk Amp. Another co-worker said he was buying my big (5) channel 1100w Polk Amp but had to get the final approval from his wife (lol). Lesson #1 - a lot of cops like to jam to music! Lesson #2 - cops always answer to a higher authority, especially spouses. Lesson #3 - See lesson #2.

loganberry

You would need to upgrade to 0 gauge for a couple runs from your front battery to the rear. The hard part would be mounting your 2nd battery somewhere. If you feel comfortable enough welding you can make a battery tray to mount under the vehicle, I have done this multiple times..as long as you take all the precautions you can fit the xp3000 between the body and the frame on the passenger side cab, also a good area to run large wire to the cab. For wire you have lots of options, great inexpensive options are shok or knukonceptz wire. 5000+ spread count each and cheaper than pretty much every big name wire company. Your amps getting warm could be lots of variables, if your gains are set correctly and they have plenty of ventilation when you upgrade your electrical it will help alot, also don't worry about the ohm load. You are seeing higher than 1 ohm at the amp due to impedance rise, so your safe