Door deadening and Speaker install
#21
That's an amazing price. Cheaper than dealer cost for sure.
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#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#23
I closed the site due to not having enough time to constantly update it with new products. Every year new stuff is out and more stuff gets released which means I was constantly on it trying to update it. Way too much work so I just shut down the site.
__________________
PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
Serving the forum for over 8 years
Brands we sell include: Kicker, NavTV, PAC, CARiD, Dayton, Second Skin, Audio Control, Skar Audio, JL Audio, Focal and more.PM me for special pricing as our contracts do not allow for posting prices publicly.
#24
Load and Charge
I’m about to pull the trigger on the Dayton DSP, but I had one question. I remember when I was researching my 13’ F150 audio build, I found that the volume control on the factory head unit would have been counter productive with the JL audio Cleansweep DSP (I had the Sony system in that truck and used the SSI to get my signal to the amplifiers). So I decided not to get it. As I understood it, the cleansweep was adjusted based on a specific input level, then volume was dependent upon the remote ****.
None of that even mattered with my 18’ because I used Forscan to flatten the signal and convert it to low level for amplifier input. I now want to go full active and run my tweeters on a dedicated 2ch amp so I’m considering the Dayton 408 DSP to make it all come together. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t be dependent upon a remote volume ****. If I’m understanding it all correctly, this is a totally different animal then the cleansweep and I should be able to use the factory volume **** without screwing up the adjustments, correct?
None of that even mattered with my 18’ because I used Forscan to flatten the signal and convert it to low level for amplifier input. I now want to go full active and run my tweeters on a dedicated 2ch amp so I’m considering the Dayton 408 DSP to make it all come together. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t be dependent upon a remote volume ****. If I’m understanding it all correctly, this is a totally different animal then the cleansweep and I should be able to use the factory volume **** without screwing up the adjustments, correct?
#25
I’m about to pull the trigger on the Dayton DSP, but I had one question. I remember when I was researching my 13’ F150 audio build, I found that the volume control on the factory head unit would have been counter productive with the JL audio Cleansweep DSP (I had the Sony system in that truck and used the SSI to get my signal to the amplifiers). So I decided not to get it. As I understood it, the cleansweep was adjusted based on a specific input level, then volume was dependent upon the remote ****.
None of that even mattered with my 18’ because I used Forscan to flatten the signal and convert it to low level for amplifier input. I now want to go full active and run my tweeters on a dedicated 2ch amp so I’m considering the Dayton 408 DSP to make it all come together. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t be dependent upon a remote volume ****. If I’m understanding it all correctly, this is a totally different animal then the cleansweep and I should be able to use the factory volume **** without screwing up the adjustments, correct?
None of that even mattered with my 18’ because I used Forscan to flatten the signal and convert it to low level for amplifier input. I now want to go full active and run my tweeters on a dedicated 2ch amp so I’m considering the Dayton 408 DSP to make it all come together. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t be dependent upon a remote volume ****. If I’m understanding it all correctly, this is a totally different animal then the cleansweep and I should be able to use the factory volume **** without screwing up the adjustments, correct?
2. The volume of the system will be entirely controlled by the headunit not the dsp.
3. I would run your tweeters and midbass with your 4 channel amp vs adding a 2 channel to run the tweeters only. If you must have rear fill, then use the 2 channel amp for the rear speakers.
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PistolWhip (03-27-2019)