Design me a system!
#11
Senior Member
Been doing the same today and am looking at this list for my truck...
Front: JL Audio C2 6.5” Components
Rear: JL Audio C2 6.5” COAX
Amp: Infinity Kappa 5 (75x4@4,350x1@2)
Sub: JL Audio 10tw3
Plus a Fosgate DSR1 to make it all work with my Sony system.
That plus the odds and ends of course. I hope to put it all in and lose no cab or under seat space. I’ll build my own enclosure to fit where the factory sub sits.
Front: JL Audio C2 6.5” Components
Rear: JL Audio C2 6.5” COAX
Amp: Infinity Kappa 5 (75x4@4,350x1@2)
Sub: JL Audio 10tw3
Plus a Fosgate DSR1 to make it all work with my Sony system.
That plus the odds and ends of course. I hope to put it all in and lose no cab or under seat space. I’ll build my own enclosure to fit where the factory sub sits.
Last edited by KineKilla; 11-01-2018 at 03:44 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by KineKilla
Been doing the same today and am looking at this list for my truck...
Front: JL Audio C2 6.5” Components
Rear: JL Audio C2 6.5” COAX
Amp: Infinity Kappa 5 (75x4@4,350x1@2)
Sub: JL Audio 10W3
Plus a Fosgate DSR1 to make it all work with my Sony system.
That plus the odds and ends of course. I hope to put it all in and lose no cab or under seat space. I’ll build my own enclosure to fit where the factory sub sits.
Front: JL Audio C2 6.5” Components
Rear: JL Audio C2 6.5” COAX
Amp: Infinity Kappa 5 (75x4@4,350x1@2)
Sub: JL Audio 10W3
Plus a Fosgate DSR1 to make it all work with my Sony system.
That plus the odds and ends of course. I hope to put it all in and lose no cab or under seat space. I’ll build my own enclosure to fit where the factory sub sits.
You won't be able to fit the w3 behind the seat but you can fit up to 2 10tw3. You could fit 12's but airspace becomes an issue.
The DSR1 will makes tuning nice and user friendly!
Let me know if you need any help tuning the DSR1. I can even set up most functions for you and just email the tune file.
Last edited by dhmcfadin; 11-01-2018 at 03:45 PM.
#14
(TIM) Retired Army 1SG
You could even go with the JL C1 6x9 comps. Very clean and great midbass for around $130 with included brackets and harness adapters if you shop around. I won't get into the whole round vs oval for sound quality, but there are a ton of great 6x9 comps out there.
#16
Originally Posted by IdahoCrew
Is all of this "designing" assuming FORScan changes to provide a low-level signal? Does the Dayton DSP mentioned above allow for high-to-low conversion?
If you use the right harness, you can run rcas to the dsp. But the Dayton accepts high level as well so even if you didn't use forscan, which isn't necessary for non amplified vehicles, you can use the Dayton with no problem.
Last edited by dhmcfadin; 11-01-2018 at 08:10 PM.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Here's what I would go with. The price I am quoting is basically msrp. Bruce from Hush Car Audio would be who I would purchase from. You will save a lot more.
Amp: Pioneer GM-9605 75x4 and 600x1 $280.00
Front components: Morel Maximo 6 $150.00
Rear Coax: Morel Maximo Coax $90.00
DSP: Dayton 408 $150.00
Total: $670.00
The Morel brand is known specifically for SQ and even the Maximo line is pretty damn impressive for their price. Lots of great reviews all of the DIYMA forum. Morel is known for a warmer sound which is why a lot of sq competitors run their tweeters.
The Dayton DSP is the best dsp for your money that you can buy today. It will be a game changer as far as tuning, time alignment, and dialing in your sound stage.
The pioneer amp is more than enough power to make your mids and highs truly sing. And 600 watts for the TW3 is going to jam if you want to.
The combination of these components will create a system that will impress anyone. And I'm not just saying that. It's true!
Amp: Pioneer GM-9605 75x4 and 600x1 $280.00
Front components: Morel Maximo 6 $150.00
Rear Coax: Morel Maximo Coax $90.00
DSP: Dayton 408 $150.00
Total: $670.00
The Morel brand is known specifically for SQ and even the Maximo line is pretty damn impressive for their price. Lots of great reviews all of the DIYMA forum. Morel is known for a warmer sound which is why a lot of sq competitors run their tweeters.
The Dayton DSP is the best dsp for your money that you can buy today. It will be a game changer as far as tuning, time alignment, and dialing in your sound stage.
The pioneer amp is more than enough power to make your mids and highs truly sing. And 600 watts for the TW3 is going to jam if you want to.
The combination of these components will create a system that will impress anyone. And I'm not just saying that. It's true!
This list looks great, but is missing the sub? I'm starting from zero, so I'll be needing to purchase everything. Is $750 including a sub not realistic?
Speedwire, metra adapters and for-11ck were definitely in the cards as well.
Last edited by morello; 11-01-2018 at 09:56 PM.
#18
I assumed you already had the sub. Sorry about that.
#19
First, forscan is not needed for non amplified vehicles. Anyone who says it is hasn't actually verified the output signal of headunit using an RTA.
If you use the right harness, you can run rcas to the dsp. But the Dayton accepts high level as well so even if you didn't use forscan, which isn't necessary for non amplified vehicles, you can use the Dayton with no problem.
If you use the right harness, you can run rcas to the dsp. But the Dayton accepts high level as well so even if you didn't use forscan, which isn't necessary for non amplified vehicles, you can use the Dayton with no problem.
I'm in a similar situation as the OP (and don't want to derail his thread). I'm planning out an upgrade to my '18 Lariat, 501A, non-amped system. The local shops recommend an LC7i. I've been wondering if a low-level signal (via FORScan) direct to an amp would work better (leaning towards a PDX V-9 and I have a CARAV 12-240 harness still in the package). I hadn't really considered having a DSP in mix... but maybe that's a better option? For sure, I'm interested in any advice/best practices.
#20
So an LOC simply converts a high level (speaker level) signal into a low level (rca) signal.
If an amplifier accepts high level input, it does the same job as the LOC would. It has an LOC built in. Same with the Dayton dsp. If you added an lc7i, that would be an unnecessary redundant piece of equipment. The only reason you would want an lc7i would be if you system had bass roll off. The non amplified F-150 front channels do not have any of this so again, it wouldn't benefit you.
The issue with forscan and going low level is there can be unpredictable issues that arise. Turn on pop is a pretty common complaint among others. You may also have to source your own remote signal as well.
A dsp is a pretty crucial piece of hardware. And at 150 bucks, you can't pass that up. Without a dsp, you won't be able to set time alignment and delay, eq, or signal gain. It will also take your system to the next level. I wish I could let you listen to my truck with and without eq. You would be amazed.
The Dayton dsp will accept both speaker level and low level signal and convert it accordingly. So yes, you can simply run the speaker level straight from the headunit to the dsp. Nice and simple.
If an amplifier accepts high level input, it does the same job as the LOC would. It has an LOC built in. Same with the Dayton dsp. If you added an lc7i, that would be an unnecessary redundant piece of equipment. The only reason you would want an lc7i would be if you system had bass roll off. The non amplified F-150 front channels do not have any of this so again, it wouldn't benefit you.
The issue with forscan and going low level is there can be unpredictable issues that arise. Turn on pop is a pretty common complaint among others. You may also have to source your own remote signal as well.
A dsp is a pretty crucial piece of hardware. And at 150 bucks, you can't pass that up. Without a dsp, you won't be able to set time alignment and delay, eq, or signal gain. It will also take your system to the next level. I wish I could let you listen to my truck with and without eq. You would be amazed.
The Dayton dsp will accept both speaker level and low level signal and convert it accordingly. So yes, you can simply run the speaker level straight from the headunit to the dsp. Nice and simple.
Last edited by dhmcfadin; 11-02-2018 at 12:26 AM.