DD1508 for my Fx4
07-02-2010, 12:02 AM
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DD1508 for my Fx4
Well guys... for all you audio buffs in here... I recently purchased a Digital Designs 1508 dual 4 ohm sub, and I am going to be building the box this weekend and upcoming week.. Just wanted to let you all know what the plan is and get some comments and feedback... maybe from people who have heard it also?
Well, my battle with figuring out what I wanted to do to get some good sound went back and forth and back again. From the start I wanted to go 12s, because I always have owned 12s, and just thing IMO that they are the most versatile size. (Last sub was an IDMAX12) Then, after finding that with my new truck, there is NO room for proper internal dimensions to do a 12 under the seat. So I started to look around and was going to do a fox box with 2 Diamond 10s, then maybe RE 10s... but it all kind of faded when my buddy told me to check out digital designs. Sooo I looked at putting 2 of their 10s in the foxbox.... sooo I made the call to them.. and the response I got was great. The guys there are very nice, and flat out tell you how it is. They said, those subs would be just too confined in that small box, and I'd be better off going with a single ported 1508 and build my own underseat box! Their philosophy on the way their subs are designed to work is excellent, and they build some rock solid equipment.
Now that the sub is ordered, here is the build (pics will be posted once I start) the sub is going to be in a downfire position on the drivers side, and the box will continue all the way as wide as the rear seat.... where the notch has to be made for the seat bracket, the box will just make the jog and not go to the rear again (poor for accoustics) A 4" X 24" port is going to be installed going from the passenger rear door inward. The box has been estimated as it sits to be just over 1 cubic foot internally after the port and subwoofer are deducted from the total. 1 cu. ft is right what digital designs recommends, so I'm off to a good start. The designs is a bit tricky, but this is box #11 for me, and I'm really stoked to get rolling with it.
The pics are of a 1510, but similar design nonetheless
Well, my battle with figuring out what I wanted to do to get some good sound went back and forth and back again. From the start I wanted to go 12s, because I always have owned 12s, and just thing IMO that they are the most versatile size. (Last sub was an IDMAX12) Then, after finding that with my new truck, there is NO room for proper internal dimensions to do a 12 under the seat. So I started to look around and was going to do a fox box with 2 Diamond 10s, then maybe RE 10s... but it all kind of faded when my buddy told me to check out digital designs. Sooo I looked at putting 2 of their 10s in the foxbox.... sooo I made the call to them.. and the response I got was great. The guys there are very nice, and flat out tell you how it is. They said, those subs would be just too confined in that small box, and I'd be better off going with a single ported 1508 and build my own underseat box! Their philosophy on the way their subs are designed to work is excellent, and they build some rock solid equipment.
Now that the sub is ordered, here is the build (pics will be posted once I start) the sub is going to be in a downfire position on the drivers side, and the box will continue all the way as wide as the rear seat.... where the notch has to be made for the seat bracket, the box will just make the jog and not go to the rear again (poor for accoustics) A 4" X 24" port is going to be installed going from the passenger rear door inward. The box has been estimated as it sits to be just over 1 cubic foot internally after the port and subwoofer are deducted from the total. 1 cu. ft is right what digital designs recommends, so I'm off to a good start. The designs is a bit tricky, but this is box #11 for me, and I'm really stoked to get rolling with it.
The pics are of a 1510, but similar design nonetheless
Last edited by pizzadave; 07-02-2010 at 12:04 AM. Reason: adding pics
07-02-2010, 11:16 AM
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well im glad there are some people that know what DD is i plan on running 4 1508s in my truck i have the box designed and just waiting on some funds to buy the subs and a big amp
btw there 500w rms rating is very very underrated there are many guys running these things are 750-1200rms
btw there 500w rms rating is very very underrated there are many guys running these things are 750-1200rms
07-02-2010, 02:46 PM
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Is that an 8 inch? I was wanting to do some 8's in my super crew but didn't know how they would sound. How would they sound in a sealed box under the rear seat just like a regular box? How much power would I need for 2 8's? What kinda truck do u have to fit 4 of those in? How are you setting the. Up?
07-02-2010, 02:54 PM
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these are not just your normal 8s these are DD1508's easily one of the best companies on the market
but to answer your question these subs are really for ported enclosures only and they sound good with anything from 300-1000w rms per sub
they require 1cuft of airspace after the port and speaker displacement
and i have a single cab 04 heritage with the box plans i have 4.6cuft before displacement and right around 4.0-4.1cuft after displacement
btw i have seen 2 of these 1508's on a 7000w amp for the SPL burps and they hit a 156.3dB in a little hatchback
here is 2 of them on 1000w and the vid isnt very high quality but you get the picture
but to answer your question these subs are really for ported enclosures only and they sound good with anything from 300-1000w rms per sub
they require 1cuft of airspace after the port and speaker displacement
and i have a single cab 04 heritage with the box plans i have 4.6cuft before displacement and right around 4.0-4.1cuft after displacement
btw i have seen 2 of these 1508's on a 7000w amp for the SPL burps and they hit a 156.3dB in a little hatchback
here is 2 of them on 1000w and the vid isnt very high quality but you get the picture
Last edited by mad4002; 07-02-2010 at 03:05 PM.
07-04-2010, 11:17 AM
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got it built!
well guys... I have the box built... I am waiting on the sub now... Without a seat lift... it gave me a 1.05 cu. ft. box after port and sub.... but once the sub is put in... we have to cut the backside out... and do a fiberglass cup (similar to the caps a foxbox has) I tuned the box to around 34 hz. DD tunes to about 35 if you run their box figures and port size in a calculator sooo I figure I am sitting pretty good! I will upload my pics here shortly! and also.. I do not think it is possible to get 2 in there not ported... even with a seat lift, you would be looking at just .75 cu. a side... and find it very very difficult to port... that's why I opted for one. Let me know what you guys think!
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07-04-2010, 11:36 AM
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looks nice man! i am currently in the process of a sound overhaul on my truck i was looking at dd's compact ported boxes but even those tiny things wont fit under my rear seat. would you care to share your box dimensions? 
07-04-2010, 11:59 AM
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The box has some different parts to it... and now that it is all together I prob dont have all the dimensions written down... but basically... the box is 51" wide.. 19" deep on the drivers side, and 8" deep on the passenger side. 32" wide on the back right, and 18.5" wide on the back left. Just 3.75" tall in the rear, and the fron is 8" tall on the sides, but just 6" tall in the middle over the drivetrain.
The cutting for the front was the only real tricky one. My front piece was 50.25" wide, and 8" tall. Then mark 16" and 19" from the right. Then mark 15.25" and 18.25" from the left. At the 18.25 and 19" marks, mark out 6" from the top. Then all you need to do is mark and cut diagonally from the 15.25 mark to 18.25 and 16 mark to 19 mark... then of course ....straight from the 18.25 mark to 19 mark. That will give you the hump portion neatly and tight. The reasoning for the 50.25" width is the port end is a cap on the end, and the drivers side end is inset within all other sides. remember when cutting the top and bottom pieces, they can be almost identical but add 1/4" to the top since this piece is essential the hypotnuse of a right triangle and needs to be just a hair longer.
My port is 28" long 3.5" wide and an avg. of 4.25" tall (since it is trapazoidal in shape. remember to round off the port edge nicely so you don't get any funny sounds. The most difficult part of this odd box is sealing.... I sealed it all but the top when I assembled... then as I put the top on I used woodglue on the outer edges like I always use, but laid a bead of silicone on the inner edges.... and reached in the port end as best I could and laid more and smooth it all out.... then... you must go inside the subwoofer hole and do all that you can to the top on that end! Tight quarters for large arms, but make sure you do some beads of caulk where you don't think you can reach or it make sound like ***!
The cutting for the front was the only real tricky one. My front piece was 50.25" wide, and 8" tall. Then mark 16" and 19" from the right. Then mark 15.25" and 18.25" from the left. At the 18.25 and 19" marks, mark out 6" from the top. Then all you need to do is mark and cut diagonally from the 15.25 mark to 18.25 and 16 mark to 19 mark... then of course ....straight from the 18.25 mark to 19 mark. That will give you the hump portion neatly and tight. The reasoning for the 50.25" width is the port end is a cap on the end, and the drivers side end is inset within all other sides. remember when cutting the top and bottom pieces, they can be almost identical but add 1/4" to the top since this piece is essential the hypotnuse of a right triangle and needs to be just a hair longer.
My port is 28" long 3.5" wide and an avg. of 4.25" tall (since it is trapazoidal in shape. remember to round off the port edge nicely so you don't get any funny sounds. The most difficult part of this odd box is sealing.... I sealed it all but the top when I assembled... then as I put the top on I used woodglue on the outer edges like I always use, but laid a bead of silicone on the inner edges.... and reached in the port end as best I could and laid more and smooth it all out.... then... you must go inside the subwoofer hole and do all that you can to the top on that end! Tight quarters for large arms, but make sure you do some beads of caulk where you don't think you can reach or it make sound like ***!