dgoingsjr

Today, I finally got around to installing stage one of my system. I installed a 4 channel , a mono and a Dayton Dsp. Which all power factory door speaker ( which are temporary) and a 10 inch kicker comp c . Right off the back , I’m very impressed with the quality especially being that I’m still using the factory speaker. However, I’m having a couple issues . First , the rest channels are not working through Ch3 and ch4 on the dsp. I have them set for input 3=ch3 and input 4= ch4 , but they (rear speaker ) play alone with 1&2 not independently . What’s strange is their gain control are still independent on the amp .

Second , my 4 channel shuts down when the truck starts back up when using auto start/ stop , but the sub amp doesn’t .

planetix

What harness did you use or how did you splice in, (which channels, etc. - you only need to tap front L/R)?

For the auto stop-start issue, what fuse did you tap for that, A) and how do you have turn on wired for your Amps, B).

I believe it's still fuse 23 (passenger kick panel) to tap, and you should wire turn on DSP>main amp>sub amp. If that is how you have it now could be something with how the latter is wired?

dhmcfadin

Yup. Front left and right only.

dgoingsjr

This is how I set it up .
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planetix

Looks like you're doing signal sense for turn on with the Dayton and passing that downstream to your amps from the DSP?

Lots of people do that but that may be the source of your issue. A real cheap, and easy, way to test is get a length of 18 gauge wire for the signal and an add-a-fuse (You can get 15 feet of wire and the fuse tap for under $10 on Amazon). Tap #23 in the passenger kick then run that back to your Dayton and set the turn-on selector switch to rem. Then see if you have the same problem. If not, all you need to do then is hide the wire run down the passenger side which should take like 10 minutes. If it doesn't work, try running the remote wire directly to your sub amp and do the same since it sounds like the DSP/4-channel don't have a problem as it is.

dgoingsjr

Good Idea , Thanks. Quick question, from my diagram do you see any reason why my rear channels are not passing through lines 3 & 4 ?

planetix

You should only be tapping the front l/r for your inputs, those are full range stereo. The Dayton will sum & divvie that signal up correctly.

I.e. just have the two going in, 4 out + preamp for sub.

doug97gxe

I would also advise you play with the radio fader to ensure which channels are working .. i think Dayton colors are different from stock wire colors .. i was using my rear all along and didn't notice till my phone wouldn't work

MDXLT

I've been following this thread as anything that has to do with the 408 is very interesting to me. The diagram above is almost exactly the way mine is set up except I have the 'fuse 23' power hook up of which the OP should hook up as it will fix some 'start up' issues you may be having. However, my interest at this point is the suggestion of having only the front r/l inputs plugged into the DSP and that the signal through the DSP will still be sent to all door speakers to operate. Do I have this correct?

planetix

With the stock system in 2015+ F150s tapping the front l/r for input will give you the full range of signal. There is no reason to tap the rears as well and in fact that may complicate your setup.

At the end of the day we're only talking about a stereo signal here. You don't need to tap the rears because as long as you have the full stereo signal input from the fronts the DSP will do the job summing, then dividing the signals to the correct outputs.