bb123

I was told by someone that I need a capacitor or an extra battery to save my battery/alternator.

If my lights don't flicker, is it necessary?

Another individual told me capacitors don't even work.

What do you think?

purplem3pursuit

Need some more info on the setup...

If you have 3 12" pushing 1500w+, it would probably be in your best interest.

bb123

2 - 12" Kicker Comp RT shallow mount (500w RMS/ea), Infinity Kappas (component and coaxial at 90w RMS/ea, Kicker KX400.4 (100RMS/ea), kicker kx 800.1 (800w RMS)...

purplem3pursuit

Sub amp bridged from 4ohm to 2ohm?

I would say you are on the cusp of benefiting from the usage of a capacitor. If it were my setup, and I was pushing 1200w RMS (quite possibly more if bridging), I would add a 1 farad capacitor. It won't hurt to have it and if you end up turning it up, you won't have to worry about the strain on the electrical system.

The other way to look at it is you can plan it out with a capacitor (space layout) and run without to see how it goes. Then decide based on experience.

Again, I error on the side of caution, so I would run one. At one point I had 2 Polk Momo 10" running through a 600x1 @ 4 ohm bridged from 4ohm to 2ohm.. I had a capacitor on that setup just in case and wouldn't have done it any other way.

bb123

Cool, thanks!

I think I'm going to run a larger amp.

Not sure what happened and the final outcome leans in the direction.

Last night I had it cranked up, turned truck off, left 2hrs later and it didn't work. The amps and door speakers worked fine. The amp for the sub was lit up like normal but none of the subs worked at all.

I'm about to make a new post in a sec...

HushCarAudio

Caps don't work. I'd suggest a bigger alternator if going with a larger setup. If pushing massive watts then get a second battery as well.

chlngfyo2

The only way caps help is to store power for short burst like SPL comp
Every day system they are not going to fix low voltage!
If it's killing your battery buy a optima or get a bigger alternator.

_MacLeod_

Caps are a complete and total scam. They don't help your charging system and in fact even draw more juice from it because a cap doesn't create power, it stores it and since its in line ahead of the amps, your alternator is having to charge it first. The stock battery and alternator in our trucks is more than enough for just about any size system so long as they're in good working order.

Avoid Optima batteries as well. I've seen way way too many of those things crap out on car audio systems. Fancy batteries are also a scam IMO. A good Duralast, Diehard, Interstate or other quality battery is just fine. Once the motor is cranked up it's the alternator that is running everything anyway.

RLXXI

Agree with everything you said except that, the alternator on these new trucks only charges when the battery needs it, the rest of the time it's just free wheeling to give better fuel economy. Computer controlled.
.

Feathermerchant

What year is your truck? (you can add that and other info to your sig).
If it has electric power steering, the alternator is capable of 250A.
As far as charging the battery when it needs to, yes but with the engine running the alternator supplies current for the injectors, ignition, fuel pump, power steering, and anything else that you also have running. On my 1995 Dodge Ram that was about 35A. So I think the extra load from the stereo will be picked up by the alternator. I don't know if you can even find a high Amp alternator for the new trucks.