HushCarAudio

Thanks! My system sounds great already.

nineball

you missed the point, but i will continue with your reply. that honda that beats you at the track most likely has thousands of dollars of upgrades and/or more skill on the track than you do, i.e. something that makes it superior. i was comparing a "budget" car to "something that would rival the most expensive". gear itself has limitations and there is no way in the world that $115 worth of speakers can compete with top end gear, i don't care who the installer is. a "sleeper" in the car audio world would be something that looks like nothing is installed, it is not gear-dependent.




i didn't spend a lot, that was the point. if a set hertz 3 way can't sound better than the speakers you listed the installation is to blame, which as you must know is just as important as the selection in gear, possibly more so. the point is the higher the quality and performance of a speaker the better it will sound, installation dependent, not the price. ohio isn't exactly close to cali...


it's not an opinion, it's a fact. cld needs 25% or so coverage on large flat panels, ccf and mlv need 100% coverage to be effective. sound is like water - it will find it's way through the easiest path. just as putting down 100% coverage or multiple layers of cld is not the proper application not having 100% coverage of ccf and mlv has the same problem. noise enters the cabin from every surface, not just the doors. and no, you were not specific with your original post.


i realize you are new to this since you joined here shortly before your site went up about a month ago, but you have a certain level of responsibility when you advertise yourself as a vendor and expert whether you like it or not. based on what you have posted in this thread alone i would caution anyone from going to you for gear or installation, but there will always be lots of people who don't do their research or are fed things that just aren't true and take them as if they were. your system may sound good at the end, and i hope it does, but the claims you are making shows your inexperience. that or you are just posting for the sake of trying to drum up business despite your claims of doing something for the "community". there is nothing wrong with a budget system as everyone who is into car audio all started out knowing nothing, but call it what it is and don't try to oversell it.

HushCarAudio

I knew the flaming would start that's why I mentioned it in the very first post. I'm not new here. I was a vendor here two years ago as well. I'm not new to the game. Apparently, you know more than everyone about this stuff. I'd love to see your shop work and all the cars you work on weekly. Just because you read a bunch of stuff on the internet doesn't make it true. Real world experience will teach you a lot more. I digress again, we both have different opinions and that's ok. Mine is more based on the various builds I do frequently. For you to question my installation is something else. I'm not certain how I've offended you but if so I apologize as that's not my intention with this post and reply. I wish you the best with your non-budget build and hope you help the community instead of bashing anyone that tries to help.

As mentioned previously from Yinger who spent a lot on his amp and speaker compared to my setup, he ended up swapping to the cheaper ones I recommended and he loves the results. I believe his Polks were three times more expensive. You should tell him he is wrong as well. His amp was around $700 and mine was around $100. Do you really think it sounds better? We can go back and forth all day. You do you, I'll do what I'm doing.

Last thing I'll say to you is that if you are truly offended, please PM me so we can square things away. There is no point in comparing dicks on a forum.

SteedaGT

iTrader: (2)

Kanadian-kaos

Ah, that makes more sense... I paid over $300 for a roll shipped to my door. Shipping something 100lbs is ridiculously expensive and not even feasible to try to order from the USA (where a roll can be found for almost half the price).
Here are some options for you lucky Americans:

1. http://soundproofingamerica.us/ameri...r-square-foot/
2. https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/1-LB...ded-Vinyl.html --free shipping in USA

Ya, the tweeters in the stock locations don't sound great. I am redoing the a-pillars. Contacting the auto wreckers today for a spare set.

nineball

i see. if one does not own a shop one must not know anything, and by owning a shop one is instantly granted all the (erroneous) knowledge in the world. ya, that must be it. forget the 25+ years i have in this industry, forget the cars i built/worked on for both harmon and sema, forget the testing i have done for several companies. to paraphrase you just because you sell gear to people does not make what you post true.

Heavy_Metal

So you joined the forum to **** in peoples cornflakes?

My take on this is OP is just trying to help. A lot of people will refer to this thread who are pinching pennies yet want louder cleaner music than the stock system provides. I get it.

Grow up. Make your own thread. Now i feel like i have to apologize to hush for you. Im sure a mod will clean this up soon.

Sorry if this was resolved earlier but my app doesnt allow me to read the long quoted posts for some reason.

Yinger

jdunk54nl

I think your results will satisfy most people and will be better than just replacing speakers. Right now I see the cost is around $700 (I don't see speaker wire or sub box, for the skar/jl, enclosure cost in there though).
Just out of curiosity how much would you charge for install for none DIY'er? This would probably be most people going this far into car audio beyond replacing speakers and should be factored into cost.

Obviously this is using stuff that you sell, which if I was in your business I would do the same,
However, I do think if someone wanted better sound and to save a little more money it is easily do-able by using some dayton audio woofers (~70) and Peerless/vifa/tymphany tweeters (~30), keeping rear stock, and going active (using amp to go active) up front to get a better blend of the woofer/tweeter. Picking up an nvx 5 channel amp (~$200 and has great reviews/price on audio forums) or picking up a better used amp for roughly the same would save you some money as well. You can usually find coupons for both of those sites that you can purchase the above products at as well.

I bet one could easily cut ~$100 off of this build by doing the active setup. This could then be invested into some sort of tuning device like the minidsp (~80) and then you would have an amazing custom tuned system for roughly the same cost.

Again, I think you build will sound good, but for $700 you can definitely do better.

HushCarAudio

All great points and thanks for the discussion. I would charge a non-DIY person probably around $1200 for the labor alone. That would include the labor, extra materials like amp shelf, box, etc. Regarding going fully active, the way I have mine setup now I didn't need to use a DSP so less wiring, knowledge, labor, costs, etc. I think you'd be shocked to hear how this system sounds as is. I understand that there are a ton of options when it comes to speakers and I've tried a few setups already. These cheap Pioneers are amazing with this combo. It's hard to imagine until you hear them. The amps that I'm using are great so far so no need to upgrade. I recently came back from a Vegas drive that took 4 1/2 each way. The amps held up without any issues. I have a personal feeling about buying used items and that's simply I don't like to do so. Of course, people can deviate and get stuff from past builds for free or get super cheap used parts. My purpose of this post was to show people how to build a budget system with stuff they can easily find readily available online for super cheap.

Regarding the box/sub, I'm testing out various boxes, designs, and subs to compare them for a future post update. I've already tested the Pioneer 10" shallow in the premade box which I posted on a couple weeks ago. I plan on comparing that to the Skar 12" shallow in a ported box soon. I also have my shop ported box that I test with a 10W7 in it. I like to use the shop W7 as a starting base to compare how far off other sub combos are from it. The goal is to compare one of the best subs in a perfectly sized/ported or sealed box to other sub combos. Once my tests are complete, I'll determine if a sealed vs ported box is better for the Skar sub, I'll share the box plans with the group so they know the exact cutouts measurements so people can build their own box. I might make this box available for purchase if people do not have the tools/experience to build one themselves.

I'm really trying to stick with the budget build topic using new parts. I'm always open to reading reviews on products that work for this particular application. I do think it's best to compare from a variety of speakers instead of only sharing info about the one particular speaker used in the truck. Perhaps I should do a write up on those $700 Hertz's speakers vs Kickers vs Polk Audios vs Pioneers as well. So far those are all that I tested on this truck side by side. Please keep the info coming though I love the feedback.