GATORB8

The input on the amp won't have a very noticeable effect on the output from the stock HU's amp at the door speakers. You may want to amp the doors so they can keep up with your bottom end eventually.

When your talking coaxial speakers, the two way/three way difference probably won't be discernible.

Do you really need Dynamat? No, Does it help? Yes, are there alternatives? Yes read up: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Remember that most plate speakers are crossed over like coaxials (the woofer plays to it's limit, and the tweeter has a simple high pass crossover), the true benefit to components is the separate tuned crossover.

BobbyC

iTrader: (1)

I just installed 2 pairs of Rockford Fosgate 1682's. $82 for 2 pair (front and rear doors) and $22 for Ford speaker adapters (no splicing).

I have the factory nav with the sub under the rear seat and I did the polyfill mod a while ago. With the new speakers installed, the sound is much cleaner and it doesn't distort at higher volume. I cranked it to 100% and it sounded very good and clear. I couldn't do that with the stock speakers. At normal volumes, there's a lot of detail that I haven't heard before.

If you want to save a few bucks, try the Rockford Fosgates. They have very good bass. Either way, you'll definitely hear an improvement over the stock speakers and get more bass than stock.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Great comment! If you are using an external amp and a sub/subs for your low end (30-90hz), I highly recommend using an amped component system up front to keep up with low end. Most component sets come with passive crossovers with incremental slope settings. (+/- up to around 6db).

The Coaxials have built it crossovers(small capacitors and inducers) but are not nearly as smooth as a true component setup. The coaxials tend to have very steep roll off's and miss alot of the frequencies where the driver "crosses" into the tweeters freq. range.

IMO Coaxials work great for the rear and are priced good. Mine are mainly used for fill. Most of the imaging and stageing will come from up front. Moroever, be more concerned about the front when selecting speakers.

I used a Focal FFP 4100 to power my Type R coaxs in the rear and Focal K2 powers up front.
The low end consist of two 10" Type R's and a Rockford T1500 (~1900 at 1)

GATORB8

Have you considered low (band) passing your rears to eliminate the highs from pulling your sound stage rearward?

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

They are already band passed. The Focal FFP is fairly easy to tune with the Alpine C701 Processor. The processor has about a 250 band eq. so it takes care of most of the imaging/staging.

Side note: My HU offers a 7 band eq with freq and 4 bandwidth options. Also had the TCORR which lets you control the bass focus and freq settings per speaker. Great head unit if anyone is looking for SQ . Alpine CDA 7894

Not hard to do when you are running 24db/octave amps and a good DSP.


I was running a complete active set up before I went to the rear coax's. Had 6.5 rainbow plats then decided to put them in my other car.

gonzo99

I got a pyaramid pb1000 would like to get a nice pair of infinity kappas Kappa 682.9CF 6x8.....wondering if this wll push them really well or should i go get another one?? w/ the stock HU in a 2004 fx4 supercrew f150???

tuxedoblack11

Get a sound ordnance b-8pt powered sub from crutch field, it will fit under the passenger seat or BEHIND the rear seat!

lizardking1

I had the Rainbow Platinum non-active set a few years ago. I like my music to sound natural and uncolored. I found the Dynaudio Esotec and Morel Elates much better in that area. Loved my Plats though.

Guinness68

Here's my thinking for replacing the CRAP that is OEM speakers in my 2011 F150 SCREW.

Pioneer TS-A6874R:

For the Fronts; and
Kicker KS68

for the Rear.

They'll both run off the HU for awhile until I install my sub. I can't stand the sound of the OEM speakers.

Pioneer is 30 - 30k Hz. 91db @ 1 watt
Kicker is 45 - 21k Hz. 91db @ 1 watt

I've used Pioneer before and was surprised at how good they sound. But I also know, they don't really go 30 - 30k. Manufactures can put whatever they want on there and Pioneer is notorius at putting these kinda numbers out. Kicker's is probably accurate. i used Infinite component in my last truck, but the sub was there to handle the low end. not sure when I'll end up installing the Sub. Could be weeks; could be months. So, with that in mind, I want a full sound in the mean time.

Why two different? (Each time I start to write why... I end up refuting my own reasoning.... argh. )

Use Two different; or get the same? Your opinion...?

I will be using a solid 8" RF sub in the rear.

KevinDB

I am ordering some mid level upgrade audio gear for my 2012 SCAB.

Got a plain jane xl, so need a head unit:

kenwood 6190hd (nice nav, bluetooth streaming, hd radio etc)

Next, I decided to spend more on one pair of speakers and not worry about the rears for now, if ever. Decided on:

JL-Audio C3-570. (component set, supposedly better than coaxials)

Power for the speakers:

JL-Audio XD200/2. (rated exactly at the RMS level the speakers are rated - can be piggy backed later)

I'm hoping the sound will be nice and clean and clear. Might want a small music oriented 8" sub later to fill it out.

A bit more than I would normally spend, but I'm tired of short-cutting it and living with a system I don't like for years. Just bought this truck so I'm doing it now, so I can enjoy the thing for the years that I drive it.

Surprisingly, my price for everything delivered to the door is less than the suggested retail price of the head unit. Whoohoo!