Audison 8.9: Where to buy
#21
Originally Posted by woodall01
I don't think your statement is totally correct, paraphrasing from JL Audio's web site, the fix is for OEM integration, with the follow functions DSP, sound level, basic EQ, timing functions and basic system tuning, the TWK is designed for low level (or digital) inputs and it for full system tuning. I can see how they might build on each other, I just think it would be overkill to use both. As they have similar functions (TWK-88 does a heck of a lot more). For what I am looking for, the Fix-86 would be perfect and the TWK-88 might be overkill.
"The FiX(TM) 86 automatically corrects time-delayed factory outputs prior to signal summing and EQ correction. Calibration takes just a single button press and about 30 seconds to complete, with no special equipment needed.
With a powerful 24-bit DSP processor and quad 1/3 octave equalizers onboard, complex factory signals, up to 3-way front and 2-way rear, are combined and level matched automatically into six, full-range stereo signals: Front (fader-controlled), Rear (fader-controlled) and Subwoofer (non-fading, front+rear summed) outputs.
Adjustments can be made to input polarity, muting, and filtering, and new calibrations can be initiated from the PC as well. By clicking on the "TUNE" tab of the TüN(TM) interface, you can also access four, user-adjustable, 10-band, graphic equalizers to fine tune the output signals."
All of these features, minus the 10 band eq and 6 channels of output are all input EQ features. Even the "time delay" described is for input eq. Meaning the output side will set all speakers at an equal delay/distance. Absolutely not the purpose of time alignment.
If 10 bands of eq and only 3 crossover filters is what you want, then go for it. But you won't have the ability to time align, you won't have the ability to ever run active crossovers, you won't have the ability to make crucial output adjustments and individual channel crossover points. The fix86's primary function is to set the summed output of your headunit to flat. Thing is, a completely flat frequency response doesn't sound good. A completely flat frequency response is the necessary foundation to tune your system using a real dsp.
Proper time alignment, parametric eq, individual channel gain, and full crossover adjustment aren't overkill. They are extremely simple to setup and are crucial in order to create a great sounding system. Regardless of the speakers or amps chosen.
If you want an alternative that does what both the fix and twk do at half the price, check out Dayton 408 $150.00
Last edited by dhmcfadin; 01-28-2019 at 11:56 PM.
#22
That said, would the audiocontrol D4.800 or the D6.1200 be a bad selection vs using something like the JL Audio or the Dayton solution?
#23
Originally Posted by woodall01
That said, would the audiocontrol D4.800 or the D6.1200 be a bad selection vs using something like the JL Audio or the Dayton solution?
Lastly, if you are looking for incredible service and pricing, message Bruce at HushCarAudio. I order all of my equipment through him. Awesome guy to work with!
Last edited by dhmcfadin; 01-29-2019 at 09:44 AM.
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HushCarAudio (01-29-2019)
#24
Yes, the Audiocontrol d4.800 and d6.1200 are awesome. If you want simplicity with an extremely easy to use tuning interface and 125 watts a channel, the AC amps are monsters. I only run AC amps they sound beautiful. Incredible value as well. Audiocontrol built their reputation on high to low line out converters. Their D series amp/dsp is designed to interface directly with the oem system AND like the JL fix, input eq is done automatically with the touch of a button. All you have to do is configure the output side. Let me know if you need assistance.
Lastly, if you are looking for incredible service and pricing, message Bruce at HushCarAudio. I order all of my equipment through him. Awesome guy to work with!
Lastly, if you are looking for incredible service and pricing, message Bruce at HushCarAudio. I order all of my equipment through him. Awesome guy to work with!
#25
Originally Posted by woodall01
Thanks for the advice, I am already working with Bruce on getting some Morals for my truck. One other question, would you go with the 4 channel and send full range to all of the speakers and use the supplied passive crossover for the front or would you go with the 6 channel and use 4 channels in the front separating out the mids and highs (removing the passive crossover) and then send full range to the rears?
#26
Thanks, I kind of figured that's the route I wanted to go.
#27
Question, recommendations for speaker wires, thinking at least 18Ga.
#28
Originally Posted by woodall01
Question, recommendations for speaker wires, thinking at least 18Ga.
Either way, here's how I did it if you want to go for it.
https://imgur.com/a/8YGXRaN
#29
I was hoping that,. In your 16 how did you handle the tweeter and mid-range separation in the front. Did you just run a new wire for the tweeter and use the factory for the mid-range?. BTW, I just order the Morals 692 6X9 components from Hush Audio.
#30
Originally Posted by woodall01
I was hoping that,. In your 16 how did you handle the tweeter and mid-range separation in the front. Did you just run a new wire for the tweeter and use the factory for the mid-range?. BTW, I just order the Morals 692 6X9 components from Hush Audio.
On my 16, I had the Sony system so all channels were already ran to the oem amp at the rear of truck. I replaced the Sony amp/dsp with the Rockford Dsr1. It came with a plug and play harness for the oem speaker harness. No new wires were necessary. But, in your case, running new tweeter channels is simple as can be. No molex plugs to pass through. Are you going to run active? If so, even better. No passive crossovers to wire in.